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Published: October 27th 2014
Today is our last day of walking and I layed in bed, before anyone was awake, and pondered one of life's big mysteries; how does an Australian iPhone know what time it is, and even deeper, when to change for Spanish daylight saving to start? That's about how complex my thought processes have evolved to since starting to walk 33 days ago. I usually don't know what the date is or what day of the week it is. Really! This blog has helped me keep track of time. When your daily routine is reduced to eating, sleeping and walking you really lose track of other aspects of life. I think that's why some of the people you meet and then bump into for the next month become an important part of your life. You all have the same issues, usually pain related or where the next feed or sleep will be, and people genuinely care about your welfare. Now, this is the same with friends and family back home but it takes longer to form. Back to my iPhone though, it is a very smart phone, even though my phone card has played up so it is really just an alarm
clock at the moment.
Back to the day! We had a great buffet breakfast at O Pino with a group of people on 'self guided' tours. This is where a tour company organises everything for you, books you into nice hotels, transports your huge amount of luggage, and gives you directions on where to go. They usually operate for the last 100kms and it certainly is a civilised way to go. You don't wash clothes, carry a small bag and camera and have a decent outfit to wear when going for dinner, rather than using the sniff test to choose what to wear. I like the uncertainty of seeing what happens next but that does have a downside as we have discovered.
Stepping out onto the path for the last time had an odd feeling for me; I certainly miss my family and friends and have some lifestyle changes to make when I get home, but there's also aspects of the ordinary life I don't miss and regret returning too. Sue, walking with severe pain in her shin, will be glad when today is over and she can have a walk- free day and for Tim it will
O Pino on a Sunday.
Nothing much happens.be the end of a good experience.
Walking was hard today as, even though it was only 22 kms, as it was on hard surfaces, quite steep in sections, and the anticipation of the end seemed to make it drag out. As I mentioned, Sue's leg was causing her great pain but she had to make it to receive her Compostela, the certificate you get if you complete the last 100kms on foot or by bike. Sue would not lie and would go without if she had not walked it.
The peak of today is Monte Gozo, the point at which you first see Santiago. It was a great relief to arrive there but like so many of these destinations, you see them hours before you reach your goal. We trudged through suburban Santiago on hot footpaths for ages and finally entered the old town.
Now, we've all seen pictures of tired but elated pilgrims arrive in the square in front of the Cathedral and this was to be our destiny. A triumphant march through the arched tunnel, striding into the square, victorious like returning centurions or something a bit like that. Wrong ! We walked into
an empty square inhabited only by a dozen or more municipal cleaners blower vacuuming a huge amount of rubbish into piles. Welcome to Santiago! Apparently there had just been a large cycling event just finish here and the town had also hosted a music festival. Still, we did better than Doug and Libby who arrived earlier and couldn't even get to the square. I suppose we have to realise that the towns activities go on regardless and our schedule and delusional expectations are pretty low on their list of priorities.
We went and picked up our Compostelas after answering the relevant questions, and set off for our accommodation, The Nest Style Hotel, a nice hotel about one block from the old town. Good choice again Steve!
After a bath and a break, Tim and I set off to explore a little of this amazing old city and find somewhere for dinner. Sue's leg had to rest so dinner was to be nearby. We strolled around, bought some freshly roasted chestnuts, and went and picked up our second certificate celebrating 800 years since St Francis of Assisi came to Santiago .
The Camino is very commercialised in Santiago
and a whole industry of cheap souvenir shops, eateries has evolved, and you can hardly turn a corner without a beggar approaching you. As a person who believes we should support charities as much as we can, it's a little difficult to deny these people but it becomes clear that it is almost another industry here and unless someone is clearly a genuine case, it's best to keep walking.
Tomorrow is the Pilgrim Mass at the Cathedral and two American women kindly paid the church a sum of money in order to use the Botafumeiro, a scented vessel containing smoking incense that is swung in the church, originally to fumigate pilgrims and disguise their odour. These days it is ceremonial and we were privileged to witness it. Ken, the Scotsman we have travelled with, has been in the cathedral 7 times and this is the first time he has seen it. A good sleepin tonight and I look forward to tomorrow . Buen Camino.
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taracloud
Tara Cloud
Congratulations!
How fantastic that all of you made it and were able to earn your Compostela. I must admit that when I read your first blog, saying that you were taking first aid for blisters, but didn't think you'd need it, I both hoped you were right to be so optimistic, and knew it wouldn't be so. Perhaps many of the important experiences of life require sacrifice and perseverance, and also knowing when to let go and take a bus--not bad lessons to come from your journey. Buen camino!