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Published: October 26th 2015
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5 October 2015, stage 30, O'Cebreiero to Triacastela
GPS: 15.59 miles, 6 hours and 19 minutes actual moving. We leave Meson Anton at 0817 in the predawn light with no breakfast and arrive at Complexo Xacobeo in Triacastela at 1647, 8 hours and 30 minutes total time.
Fitbit: 15.9 miles, 225 stairs. 35875 steps
Quote of the Day: "The knees may ache and your feet may bleed, But the spirit within is all you really need."
Yesterday was lots of up hill climbing. Today is lots of down hill slogging. With a lot more up hill than expected!
Because of the darkness and fog we walk along the road to Linares. There are many pilgrims including some bus groups walking the rocky path and the road. The two meet here and we stop for an OJ, coffee con leche and a bit of breakfast. Linares once grew flax for the linen trade. Shortly after we climb to the statue of a Medieval pilgrim looking out over the vast expanse of Galicia with its lush green valleys and flowing streams from all the rain. We had hoped for a bit more to eat at Hospital de la
Condesa but the Albergue said no menu for breakfast, only bread and coffee. So we moved on. Hospital de la Condesa does have a pre-Romanesque Iglesia St. Juan, XIc that has an unusual stone roofed belfry and cross of Santiago.
We passed by a group on horseback as we climbed to Alto do Poio. For a mostly down day we have a lot of climbing to do! At the Albergue in Alto do Poio we are able to have a nice breakfast albeit about 1100. While in this albergue we met and talked with a couple who have called for a taxi. He had a heart attack just 6 months before and is walking the Camino but has sense enough to call a cab when he is spent as it is easy to feel that way with the steep climbs.
Ah, and next we get lost--to the tune of 1.5 miles. And the scenario is so unbelievable! The signage is large and plain!! We needed a break point and see an albergue cafe that looks enticing in the village of Fronfria. Nevermind we totally overlook the four directional signs on the building next to the sign for the
We have our first encounter wtih pilgrims on horseback
We have seen signs since Astorga about renting a horse. cafe. The cafe is closed but we continue merrily along our way. The track is very muddy and eventually-it took w-a-y too long-we decide we are in error. Absolutely no way marks. We backtrack to a cafe where we had seen a bus when we first passed by. I have some of the saltiest chicken noodle soup I have ever had. I am sure it was Liptons not home made. But, looking on the bright side of this rather dreary, rainy day, we are sitting in front of a roaring fire and that is wonderful.
Heading back we wind our way down the farm lanes clearly marked with Camino kilometers on Santiago posts. We pass the typical Galician villages of Biduedo and Filloval and arrive at Triacastela. Complexo Xacobeo is a modern hotel, albergue and restaurant. The pilgrim's menu selection includes grilled steak and pork. The restaurant associated with the albergue is down the street. It is a lovely meal.
Back to our third floor room. It is quite spacious and we have an extra bed to put our possessions on for reorganization. One begins to appreciate simple niceties, such as decent lighting by which to labor over
a blog and adequate space to spread out all the dirty clothes. And a small bathtub for soaking at the end of the day.
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