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Published: November 2nd 2016
30 September 2016, Friday, Day 1 of our walk to Cape Finisterre. Santiago Road to Negreira. 14.55 miles Hotel Millan.
Fitbit:. 13.64 miles, stairs 155
The Jacobean pilgrimage enjoyed widespread fame throughout medieval Europe. Land and sea alike were furrowed with routes full of spirituality leading to Santiago de Compostela. Seafaring ways used by pilgrims from Scandinavia, Flanders, England, Scotland and Ireland made their way to Ribadeo, Viveiro, Ferrol and A Coruna. After landing they made the 100 plus kilometer journey from the coast to Santiago on foot. One of the more noteworthy pilgrimages occurred in 1147 when a group of crusaders on their way to the Holy Land, took part in the conquest of Lisbon and aided the first king of Portugal in his struggle against the Moors. Before any bellicose encounter the crusaders would visit the tomb of St. James. Boats, used to bring these pilgrims, would return loaded with goods from Galicia. Thus Galician products became known across Europe. The route to Cape Finisterre, on the sea, became more well known.
As the sun is rising in Santiago we are walking down the streets past the Cathedral to the Camino way to Fisterre. Our first
stop is to poke our heads in the open gate, called the Corrolon Gate, by the parador. This was where all merchants had to enter and leave their goods for the hospital. The parador, now a very exclusive hotel, is built from the original hospital for pilgrims at the Cathedral in Santiago on the square. We see several people sitting on the wall at the gate. I ask them if they are in line for the free pilgrims breakfast and they reply yes. We have read on a blog that the first 10 people for each meal are given a free breakfast or dinner in a room just off the kitchen with the staff. These folks were waiting to take advantage of this meal.
Our waymarks for this part of the Camino are very large painted footprints on the sidewalk. After passing the restaurant Tertuli, we come to a park with a conventional waymarker indicating 89 kilometers to Fisterre and 87 Kilometers to Muxia. The path leads us on a walk through the park then across a stone bridge out of Santiago. Out of the park, we start a climb through the oak forest of San Lourenzo. Arrows mark
the way, along the green and stone hillside as we walk. We reach a spot where we can look back and see the fog shrouded spires of the cathedral and buildings of Santiago. It is a beautiful wooded path and the morning is cool with the moisture in the air. We are in farm country and the way traverses side roads by fields with horses and sheep.
Before noon we come to a home with scallop shells lining the wall and gate posts. The home looks rather old and neglected but the gate is pristine. Another home has baskets hanging on hooks for the bread or other items to be delivered and left for them outside on the fence. And, a third home we all agree we could move into today. We did stop to smell a few roses also. There are also many medieval stone bridges we cross. We found a cafe for coffee, not indicated on our guide sheets, after about 8 kilometers. We then came to the locality of Ames. Jo loved this name as she is from Iowa and Ames is home to Iowa State University, nicknamed the Cyclones.
We now had our 300
meter climb. Karen recorded as many stairs on her Fitbit as we did in the many climbs on the Camino Frances. Probably, because she did not go over the Pyrenees the first day and some of the other, higher climbs were more gradual and occurred over more than one day. The ivy along the stone wall by the road we are on has started turning and the leaves are beautiful red, orange and gold. We come to a river with stone pools for a mill and a magnificent old stone bridge which we use to cross to the other side. A few more kilometers and we enter the town of Negreira. Again, the google maps on my phone help us to go directly to the hotel which is about 500 meters off the Camino.
After checking in at Hotel Millan, we ask about our bags. They have not arrived. The man says they will be there in 30 minutes. As Jo and I partake of our ritual wine and beer at the end of our day's walk, the proprietor comes and tells us our bags have arrived. I ask the bag man about the next days courier and he
gives us a phone number to call. The next day is 21 miles distance and we want to arrange for transportation of a person as well as the bags. A lady now is at the desk and she calls and arranges everything for us. A young Spanish couple, she is from Valencia and he from Muxia, are at the bar. She tell me that if we need help they can help as they are fluent in English, and Spanish. We did not need help this time. Then we meet Simon and Rachel. Simon is from Australia, Melbourne, and Rachel, Ashville, North Carolina. They have been walking together on the Camino.
Our pilgrims dinner starts at 1900 and the waiter is a real character. He allows us to alter almost every aspect of the pilgrims menu and we have a nice meal. After devouring all the food we take a group photo, and extend our thanks to the waiter.
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