Our next stop is Vilnius. It is different. The centre is bigger and the old and new towns are integrated. In the old city, cobbled streets wind past 15th and 16th century buildings. Pagan Lithuania only turned to Christianity around 1400 but there are countless Baroque churches, both Orthodox and Catholic. Many buildings have large, dusty courtyards hidden behind them. Near the cathedral, an alley beside a small shop leads to a courtyard around which are 35 apartments, including our home for a few days. We arrive to find musicians playing everywhere. It is the city's open air music festival and every instrument is here, from recorder to saxophone; from guitar to cello; from trombone to piano accordion. As we walk we pass from Beethoven to modern jazz; from folk to pop to rock to blues.
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