Streets of Vilnius

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Our next stop is Vilnius. It is different. The centre is bigger and the old and new towns are integrated. In the old city, cobbled streets wind past 15th and 16th century buildings. Pagan Lithuania only turned to Christianity around 1400 but there are countless Baroque churches, both Orthodox and Catholic.

Many buildings have large, dusty courtyards hidden behind them. Near the cathedral, an alley beside a small shop leads to a courtyard around which are 35 apartments, including our home for a few days.

We arrive to find musicians playing everywhere. It is the city's open air music festival and every instrument is here, from recorder to saxophone; from guitar to cello; from trombone to piano accordion. As we walk we pass from Beethoven to modern jazz; from folk to pop to rock to blues. There is a walking band of drummers and a choir of ladies in traditional costume. Talented lot, these Lithuanians.

Lithuania has been constantly under the rule of others. First Poles then Russians then Germans. Then, after WW1, Poles again. WW2 brought back Russians then Germans, then Russians again. Finally, in 1991, Lithuania became truly independent for the first time.

The former KGB building is now a museum to the oppression by Russians and Germans. It is a chilling museum, speaking loudly of man's inhumanity to man. There are many photographs of the young prisoners who died here while other photographs show the young men who guarded, tortured and killed them. And much of this happened in our lifetime.

We took the local bus out to Trakai where a mediaeval castle sits splendidly on its own island in a lake. The castle has been lovingly restored and it is easy to imagine knights riding in across the bridge. Our visit is compete when we hire a pedalo and chug around the lake to take in the scenery.

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