The next four days gave a succession of stunning landscapes and small-town walks, punctuated by several excursions in larger towns, occasional on-board diversions, and two sightings of the northern lights on our first and second nights. Unfortunately they turned up when clouds and a full moon were around, so not the stunning display of the tourism docos, but fascinating all the same. The boat has an announcement regime that ensures you don’t miss them. Apart from those, the highlights really are the beauty of the land, water and sky, which can be seen in the photos (of which there were plenty, much reduced here) and require no further description. The boat accommodates 350 – we reckon no more than about 250 on this trip. Just one other Australian couple that we met – most people were
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