Blogs from Astypalea, South Aegean, Greece, Europe

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Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Astypalea September 4th 2023

Issy and I opt for a rest day. No rest however for most of the Rembrandts; they head five kilometres or so along the steep and winding road around the bay to Paralia Agios Konstantinos. They’re taking the sensible approach; they’ve chartered a fleet of taxis for the trip. Most of them already think I’m a bit unhinged, so I think it might be better if I don't let it slip that I walked there a couple of days ago. We stir from our slumbers in the late afternoon just in time for another session of show and tell. Actually it was probably just me who stirred from a slumber … I don’t think there’s any chance that Issy nodded off; she’s been way too nervous at the prospect of showing off her masterpieces to the ... read more

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Astypalea September 3rd 2023

Today we’re catching a bus to the small seaside village of Maltezana which is about ten kilometres east of Livadi just past the so-called Narrows of Astypalea. Our fearless leader Diana tells us that the name comes from a Maltese connection, and Issy suddenly gets very excited. This subsides quite quickly however when it’s revealed that the connection is that Maltese pirates used to use the bay as a hideout as they went about looting and pillaging the island. We heard similar stories in Naxos last year, and I remember thinking at the time that Issy’s Maltese relatives had been strangely silent on that particular aspect of their island’s history. It’s a bit windy here, but there are a couple of respectable looking beaches with sunlounges and beach umbrellas. It looks like it’s a serious fishing ... read more
Maltezana
Maltezana
The artist at work, Maltezana

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Astypalea September 2nd 2023

It seems the local transport mafia mightn’t be in need of help from their Sicilian associates after all. Our rude, creepy, ripping us off, and just plain not good at his job bus driver apparently decided overnight that he needed our custom after all. So what did he do? Well it seems he made a late night visit to our fearless leader Diana’s hotel room. She struggled to find a knife before answering the knock at the door in her PJs. But no, he wasn’t there to dispense some mafia-style justice. There were apparently lots of excuses made about language related misunderstandings, which wasn’t really washing with Diana - she's lived here for thirty years and speaks fluent Greek. Next up were some creepy unreciprocated hugs, and he then disappeared back off into the night again, ... read more
Chora and the Castle
The Rembrandts hard at work
Chora and the Castle

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Astypalea September 1st 2023

Today we’ll be heading out on the water with a boat trip to some nearby islands. But first we have to run the gauntlet of the local transport mafia. Our fearless leader Diana’s been chartering a bus to get us around, but it seems all is not well with that arrangement. The bus driver is rude, creepy and a terrible driver, and it seems he’s also doing his best to rip us off. Diana wants to ditch him, but that’s easier said than done. We need him to take us and our several tons of luggage back to the port when we finally come to leave, so just telling him to go forth and multiply would not seem to be a particularly good strategy. Anyway, today we’re travelling to the port in taxis, five of them, ... read more
Kounoupa Island
Kounoupa Island
Kounoupa Island

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Astypalea August 31st 2023

I join a select few of the Rembrandts for a short bus ride up the hill where they’ll be spending the morning drawing windmills. It seems the pull of the beach has been a bit stronger than the pull of the paintbrush for the rest of the crew; they’ve all opted to stay put down in Livadi. The remnants of eight windmills are still sitting up here on the ridge below the Castle. I read that they’re believed to have been built in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, and the locals apparently used to bring their grain up here to have it milled into flour. They look almost identical to the mills on the ridge above Chora in Amorgos. The ones here in Astypalea were apparently able to spin horizontally to suit the wind direction; I ... read more
Astypalea port
Chora
Livadi

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Astypalea August 30th 2023

We’re on the move again today; this time it’s a two or so hour ferry ride south-east to the island of Astypalea. But first it’s “show and tell” time for the Rembrandts and their small band of supporters. I could feel the tension building at dinner last night. The main question on everyone’s lips seemed to be how their masterpieces were going to be judged. No one seemed overly impressed with my idea that we hold up cards with scores out of ten, and the bottom ranked two then have a paint-off to see who gets kicked off the tour. Issy was so nervous about the prospect of the ordeal that she tossed and turned all night, slept through the alarm and missed the whole thing. It all turned out to be quite tame. The Rembrandts ... read more




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