Blogs from Saint-Remy-de-Provence, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, France, Europe

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This morning was my last breakfast in France. We forgot to buy milk yesterday, so muesli with water and Nescafé Instant coffee . Very French, not. It’s 9.46am, and we’re driving through small villages with serious speed humps every 200 metres, and large gated villas with German Shepherd dogs patrolling the gates as the welcoming committee. Lush bowling (?) greens dominate the drive through the village and are being attended to by volunteers; it’s always volunteers, right ? The hillsides are covered in grapevines and olive trees, and the trees are starting to turn vivid yellow, orange, and red as autumn overtakes summer. We just snatched a ticket from yet another toll station, and dodging the speed humps, roundabouts and rough country roads always justifies the fee . The highways are smooth, high speed, and have ... read more
An Aux Original
Typical Town Laneway
The Cathedral of Our Saviour


Today is definitely Avignon Day. I started yesterday with a bit of background on this important city, so if your memory is like mine, read it again. As my parents used to say when we were in a hurry, and I appeared to be elsewhere, “ I’m not going to repeat myself !” Luckily for you, there is no implied punishment attached to this, and I don’t think there ever was for me. It was just an often futile attempt to get me to snap out of it, fire up, pull your finger out, and as my father never swore in his life, that’s as colourful as it got. Approaching Avignon, via Google Maps, the overall impression and welcoming committee leaves a lot to be desired. According to Tim, France has a view that cutting back ... read more
Avignon
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Avignon


Today we are going to Avignon, a city that is known as being the City of the Popes. In the 14th century Pope Clement V and his offsiders fled from Rome and established the Palais Des Papes, and between 1309 to 1377, the 7 French born popes invested huge sums of money building and decorating the Palace, in order for them to live in the manner to which they had become accustomed. That last bit is not necessarily a fact, but rather is just moi’s thinly disguised attempt at a social opinion. The town is encircled by 4.3 kilometres of preserved stone ramparts, and is considered to be the jewel in the crown of the region of Provence. Before we talk the short drive to enjoy all that Avignon has to offer, Tim and I will ... read more
The House Where Nostradamus Was Born.
House of Nostradamus’ Birth
We Got ‘em


Today is a rest day. No driving, No traipsing around castles and villages, Except this one, We’ve been on the go for 8 days and we have 5 nights here, with most things we want to see within an hours drive; so what’s the rush? This morning we strolled into the centre of the village at about 10am, it’s now 4.20pm, and I fell like I’ve achieved nothing. Everything is going to plan. We ate lunch at an African/ Moroccan Restaurant, with golden raffia shades and colourful tagines decorating the walls. The service was still very French; polite but detached. The ceiling light shades were made of very solid glaced pots, hanging upside down, just low enough for someone who doesn’t have enough awareness to crack their skull on. Who on earth hangs light fittings so ... read more
Our Humble Abode in Saint Remy de Provence
One of the ancient city entry points.


We were up, showered, packed, and sitting at a table in the Rue de Moulin, opposite the 1850 open air town market building , by 8.30. The village of Levignac seems to be undergoing somewhat of a renaissance of its own. It is only a 30 minute drive from Toulouse and this village is a perfect blend of commuting and quiet old world charm. A doer upper from the 18th Century will set you back about 150k€. Many of the houses in our street were undergoing refurbishment while still maintaining the period features such as heavy aged beams and lintels, and stone corbels supporting them. Rickety weathered window shutters, barely hanging, seemed to be compulsory, and might be heritage listed, as no work had been done on them. The French country side is changing as we ... read more
Looking back on the street we stayed in.
Levignac Charm


I can’t believe it is our last full day on the bikes…the week has just flown past and it is always sad to be almost at the end. This morning’s ride had two options, 20 miles or 31 miles. Both ending in Mouries, where we were scheduled for lunch and for those doing the short option, an olive mill tour. We were all together until a certain point where the long riders would turn off, but up till that point we were skirting the base of the baby Alpes while passing pine trees on rolling hills. We stopped for a quick coffee and Ken/Sandy/Eric/Sam all choose to power through the longer ride, while I hung with Sue/Anthony/Ed/Shelley for the shorter version. We pedaled up a nice sloping hill for several kilometers and found ourselves quite high ... read more
Baux de Provence
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Our Goodbye Evening Happy Hour


Sometimes sightseeing goes differently from the sunny, postcard sort of picture in your mind's eye... Sunday morning we opted to stay in and listened to the new Hillsong album and then an excellent John Dickson message he gave at Wheaton College. Feeling edified and rested we decided to take a trip to a well known town only half an hour from here called L'Isle-Sur-la-Sorgue. Sunday is its huge market day, but these generally close down around lunch time so we thought we would be able to park -the constant challenge- and enjoy wandering beside its waterways and famous water wheels, find some lunch and enjoy the local colour. That was the plan. It was another beautiful drive. By putting in the ‘no tolls’ on our maps, we end up on some amazing back routes, down tiny ... read more
Aesculapian snake
The canals of L'Isle -idyllic at first
Canals mean bridges


It's been good to be in on the road again after the small glitch in the last entry! Everything seems even sweeter, the poppies redder, the vines greener and even the Provençal sky is back to its almost unnatural cerulean blue after uncharacteristic storms. I had to face the possibility in the Avignon hospital that our trip could be in jeopardy, so the quick diagnosis and treatment was a huge relief. My heart rate came down slowly from around 120 and was back to 60 today, and had reverted to sinus rhythm. It might not have responded so quickly, so I am thankful. Our couple of down days had also been very wet. Our mate Sami says that , “Jamais, jamais, jamais” Never, never, never has it been so wet in late spring. Ah well, we ... read more
Sun hats off, raincoats on!
One of the widest arches built in the aqueducts
Les Alpilles and return of blue skies


This post is going up in the interest of transparency - I feel a little reluctant, but it's a good story... Avignon was on our list of day trips from St Remy, and we got there, but not to see any places we had planned - we ended up in the emergency department of the Centre Hospitalier. The night before we decided to look at all our research on the places we wanted to see and to spread the expeditions out on our calendar for the two weeks remaining here in St Remy. The more we see, the more Peter has to paint so the experiences are piling up, and some of it has been unplanned, so we wanted to be sure we dont miss anything. We decided to go to Pont du Gard, the Roman ... read more
Well monitored
Breakfast - a bread roll and bowl of coffee
Checking all my meds against the French meds


Our neighbour here in St Remy, Sami, had gone to the information centre especially to get us a copy of the book with all the festivals in St Remy through the year. I think he was finding our basic French and his non existent English too frustrating when he wanted to tell us about things that are on. So now he opens up the book and points to the next event, and then makes sure we get there in good time! He and his wife Gaby are so kind. He spotted Peter out in the lane looking for some communal herbs to enliven our not quite Masterchef spaghetti and jar of bolognaise, and between them had a bizarre conversation. Something was lost in translation because Peter did not know the word for basil or parsley, but ... read more
Decorated draught horses
Spoilt poodles watch the parade from their cart
Whip cracking, bare back riders




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