Blogs from Lourmarin, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, France, Europe

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How can this be our last day in Lourmarin? Two weeks sounded like a leisurely stay when we planned it, but it has flown and we feel as if we have hardly started to appreciate this plus beau village. But I am sitting at a cafe in the square and have been browsing our second weekly market, so it must be two weeks. This entry will be a catch up on things I haven't managed to write about yet, so get ready for randomness! The weather has been most unseasonal, according to the locals. At least half our days have had some rain and it has been stormy and even cold. We have slept with the heater on low as the stone walls of our cottage are not exactly cosy. We haven’t tried out the pool ... read more
View from the cafe in market day
Sculpture exhibition at the chateau
Photographic exhibition at the chateau


Aix-en-Provence is known as the Paris of the south and a stunning city but we delayed our anticipated visit there when the weather turned stormy. We had whizzed through it on the way to Cassis, so ithe trip did not seem too daunting. We know the spots where we took wrong turns and how to avoid tolls if we want to. Nevertheless, with only a few days left in this area, last night we almost balked! So many things to see, stories of impossible parking, my inability to walk long distances, especially uphill, and the tricks that Google maps plays all conspired to make us hesitate. Loic, our host, used to live in Aix, but a little like a native speaker trying to help a language beginner, he doesn’t understand our challenges and airily tells it ... read more
Inside the studio
Peter wants one of these for really big paintings!
The multicultural crowd waiting to get into the studio.


Some people base their whole stay in Provence on the calendar of markets. Peter Mayle (“A Year in Provence”) claimed that there are enough little markets in the region to go to a different one every day of a whole year! Every day of each week there is a market in one of the well-known towns - some are artisan and craft, some bric-a-brac, but all of them have food. If you time it right it is possible to shop for most of your fresh food at markets, and you can be sure the food miles are minimal and the produce fresh. We had grabbed some staples at the Super U a few kilometres from our village, but were hanging out for market days for the real food of the region. Then we had two days ... read more
Every kind of tomato
Craft and fabric items add colour
Peter unloads our shopping haul from Lourmarin market


This whole trip began with a dream at home in Australia about Cassis, a tiny town on the south coast of France, just 22km east of Marseille. Over a year ago, I was browsing the internet looking for ways for us to get to Europe again, and came across the Camargo Foundation - an institute situated in Cassis for the encouragement of artists, thinkers and performers. Thy offered several residential courses each year for selected participants, including accommodation and some support - it sounded too good to be true! We felt more and more drawn to it, and Peter put together his application. We knew, however, that it was a long shot and probably favoured artists with more profile. As the months went by we talked about the options and what we would do if Cassis ... read more
Playground for boats
At least one shot with Peter and the Camargo Foundation
Our little train ride


We had talked about getting out early to see some of the popular Luberon attractions - after all, our bodies are still waking us quite early. That was the plan. But somehow our departure this morning for Roussillon, one of the most spectacular hill towns in the Luberon mountains, was later than we intended. It was also the weekly market day in the town, the first really sunny day since we have been here (no more thunderstorms), and, to top it off, it was a public holiday for, wait for it, Ascension Day! Given the well known lack of interest of the French in anything religious, that was the icing on the cake. It would be bustling with people and impossible to park. So we went anyway! It was our most ambitious drive so far, apart ... read more
The poppy fields everywhere in this valley.
Sights of Roussillon on the hill
Every shade of red, yellow and brown in the Roussillon buildings.


This is our fifth trip to Europe together and we have generally used trains to get around - until this time. Peter has always dreamed of tootling around Tuscany or Provence in a car but it has seemed like more of a nightmare for me. My left brain predominates and the challenge of reversing everything I know from fifty years of driving on the left side of the road feels insurmountable. My can-do husband, however, is the right-brained artist who can reverse trailers using mirrors and once drove on the other side in Los Angeles in a borrowed car! Could I sit in the wrong sided passenger seat and enjoy the ride? Well, we are doing it and I haven’t screamed once, at least not aloud. As our plan developed, it was clear that to live ... read more
Ansouis on the hill, with its castle
An Australian artist in Ansouis
Iris joys


We are settling into our life here and developing routines, even after a few days. When Ms Google tells us in the car to proceed south, I am starting to remember that that is actually where the sun is - it is a little disorienting to Southern Hemisphere dwellers. I am overcoming my hesitation to throw open the double glazed windows of our cottage with no screens - I get surprised that there are no mosquitoes and hardly any flies as we come from jumbo mozzie country. Our bodies are slowly turning around (well, Peter seems to do it instantly) and I have woken as if to an alarm at 3 am, 4am and this morning, 5 am. I guess I will slumber on until 6 tomorrow! Although Lourmarin is an ancient little stone village with ... read more
Chopin concert in the chateau
Etienne and  Alexandra - magnifique!
French immersion experience


Lourmarin is indeed a plus beau village and that is why we chose to stay here. We looked up the offical list of the ten most beautiful French villages and checked them all out - but Lourmarin's location in Provence, and the fact that it is fairly flat and not clinging to the side of a mountain won us over. We were also to discover that it has an extraordinary number of galleries and artists for a tiny place. So that was it and the rest of our trip developed from that decision. After our big journey from Paris on Saturday, it was like coming home when we drove into La Luberonne chambre d’hôtes. There are villas and a pool at the front, but this cottage is the old farmhouse, situated at the back of the ... read more
First views of the village in the evening light
Cafes in the square
Ancient fountain in front of the village church

Europe » France » Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur » Lourmarin August 1st 2015

Today we travel by train to Marseille where we'll collect a hire car to drive to the village of Lourmarin in Provence. I wake up feeling sleep deprived, presumably caused by my late night caffeine overdose. We have breakfast at the hotel with the resident cat for company. It's face is very flat, and it looks like it's run face first into a bus. Issy says that the hotel should enter it in a grumpy looking cat competition. I think I'd be grumpy too if I'd run face first into a bus. Everywhere we've caught a train in Europe they've numbered the carriages differently. Sometimes carriage number one is at the front, and sometimes it's at the back. Sometimes they don't have a carriage number one, and just start at any random number. There's generally nothing ... read more
Our four poster bed, Lourmarin
Garden at Les Olivettes, Lourmarin
Lourmarin from Les Olivettes

Europe » France » Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur » Lourmarin September 28th 2012

Uzes and the Luberon, 17, September Thru 28th September Ed & Wendy had arranged a swap for us all just outside the Languedoc-Roussillon town of Uzes. This house built into the ramparts of the town was originally bought and re-furbished by a Swedish couple and their architect, it was subsequently sold to an Englishman, the current owner. Yes, it's pretty nice and very comfortable! I'm not going to ramble on with a diary style blog, but am just going to mention the highlights. And, as always with us, it has a high food content. Caroline is doing a food blog, but personally I'm in search of the perfect Steak Tartare, and I think I found it in a restaurant in Aix. While traveling with Wendy and Ed, we have spent our lunchtimes in some pretty nice ... read more
Bonnieux
Vincent
Caroline and Our Maitre d




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