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Our trusty Yaris
It’s plenty big enough for the tight spaces! We had talked about getting out early to see some of the popular Luberon attractions - after all, our bodies are still waking us quite early. That was the plan. But somehow our departure this morning for Roussillon, one of the most spectacular hill towns in the Luberon mountains, was later than we intended. It was also the weekly market day in the town, the first really sunny day since we have been here (no more thunderstorms), and, to top it off, it was a public holiday for, wait for it, Ascension Day! Given the well known lack of interest of the French in anything religious, that was the icing on the cake. It would be bustling with people and impossible to park. So we went anyway!
It was our most ambitious drive so far, apart from the very first incredible trip from Avignon when we arrived. We are not confident to venture out without a speaking map, and we were delayed again trying to get the technology to work. Lourmarin is right at the foot of the Luberon range, so we were immediately onto the mountain road and into racing driver mode! I cannot believe how the Tour de
France cyclists raced down this road. On the way we finally saw what I was looking for - whole fields of poppies. The rural scenery was breathtaking, as if someone had laid it all out for a landscape painting. When we reached Roussillon we could see immediately that it would be a miracle if we could park.
Once you enter a hill town there is no backing out so we climbed to the middle of the town and the bustling market square. I decided to bale out while Peter went off to find a non-existent parking space, and just grabbed my bag and rolled out of the car. That unplanned move meant that I ended up without my hat and sunscreen (until Peter bought his searched for Van Gogh straw hat and gave me his daggy khaki one), so tonight I have a bit of a glow! That was when we discovered that there is no phone coverage in Roussillon - good on them! We had no way of communicating and there were thousands of people in town. I passed the time exploring the market and eventually we found each other.
Roussillon is famous for its ochre, and
the whole town is shades of yellow, sienna, red ochre and even a puce colour. It all comes from the surrounding hills that are pure ochre - the largest deposits in the world. We climbed up and up, taking it in stages, punctuated with some pizza, browsing art and ceramic shops, people watching and taking photographs, and finally reached the ancient church at the very top. The views were just breathtaking and I pondered why it is that height seems to add perspective to life. Somehow it is refreshing and calming to look out across valleys and mountains. Going down is easier on my heart, but harder on the knees!
The legend of Roussillon is rather gory, involving a jealous husband, the lover's heart being served up to be eaten, threats and tragedy when the wife, Lady Sirmonde falls over the cliffs. Her blood is said to be the origin of the colours in the town.
Enough with dark stories, It was time for something cold, so we found a terrace with views and ordered ‘deux boules de glace’ each. Mine were apricot and peach sorbets, just bulging with real fruit - heaven! Today's experience was so ‘other’
for us that it absorbed and engaged us: it was rich and full of aesthetic delight. Somehow the earthiness of the town structures sort of grounded us, while the sheer height lifted us up - all at once! We are learning words all the time and both had a couple of small interactions completely in French. I bought a small present in the market and was able to explain that it is for my granddaughter in Australia. Peter handled paying the bill in French too. We sampled local honey and bought a jar of chestnut tree honey - it is is absolutely delicious. Peter bought some powdered ochre in four different shades to mix as paints And is delighted to be using pigments.
Not far from Roussillon is an ancient Roman bridge -Pont de Julien. After a wrong turn which re-routed us down the narrowest road yet, we found it. It is hard to take in that a man-made structure can last two thousand years. It is not used by traffic today (there is a new one next to it that looks very boring!) but it is an easy stroll and a pleasing shape over the Calavon River. I
An ancient oil mill
That’s an original grinding stone on the wall. It’s seen a few olives. had pictures of Roman armies marching over it, but today there were just lots of people out on bikes and roller blades enjoying the beautiful day. Cycling through Provence is very popular, but I think I am grateful for the car at last!
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