Blogs from Western Highlands, Guatemala, Central America Caribbean - page 14

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I was flat on my back, my head straight against the pillow, my laptop nestled up against bent knees. I was playing a computer game for an hour or so, willing myself to get sleepy. Eventually I put my laptop away, turned off my light and rolled over to my side. Scratch, scratch, scratch. Nothing. Scratch, scratch, scratch. “What the….?” I thought to myself. Again and again I heard this noise, but never felt anything moving under me or on the walls against the bed. My first thought was “mouse,” then “rat,” although I hadn’t seen either the entire two weeks I was staying in this little bungalow by the lake. I thought perhaps one or both of the little rodents could be under the bed, and then after some time listening to the repeated scratch, ... read more
Adirondacks overlooking the water
My roommate
Sunset on Lake Atitlan


I snagged the middle seat in the front of the collectivo van and by 8:40 we were off, heading towards Comitan, and subsequently, the border with Guatemala. There was no blockade to stop me this time, unlike yesterday, when I was forced by unforeseen circumstances to stay one more night in San Cristobal due to a roadblock that wouldn't allow any buses past. The driver drove slowly over the numerous speed bumps and was careful and cautious throughout the entire journey. Exactly one hour and forty minutes later we arrived to the collectivo stand in Comitan, the exact same one that housed the onward collectivo to the immigration office at Comalapa. A ten-minute wait for passengers and the full van left, arriving shortly at the border with Guatemala. The one lazy, unfriendly immigration officer on duty ... read more
Made it to Guatemala
My room in Hotel Sucot, Huehuetenango
First meal in Guatemala


The last time I visited to Panajachel (2005), I only saw a tourist trap. Booth after booth with tourist kitsch for sale with jacked up prices line the streets. Many of the items are made in China. This time I stayed with my friend Maria who has a house in Panajachel, but also lives in Texas. We flew down to Guatemala together and she invited me to visit her in Pana. Maria is originally from Guatemala, and even in the States dresses in traditional Mayan clothing. This was a wonderful chance to see her on her own turf and I got to see Panajachel from Maria’s point of view and it totally changed my experience of the town. She has a nice house with a gorgeous garden and a breathtaking view from her roof. Just hanging ... read more
View from Maria's Roof
View from Maria's Roof
Maria and I out to eat


Hola again, Have made it to Panajachal in Guatamala. Interesting day ourfirst land boarder crossing all went very smoothly. Group decission not to do the chicken buses much to our relief so up graded to a minibus. Really noticing the differences between Mexico and Guatamala very different landscape and people. For those of you at work (see I do think of you all) I am like a giant here no longer feel like I am in a hole. Today we are going to do a walk around the town this morning and a boat trip across the lake this afternoon. Once again we are going to try to post some pickies.... read more


So we´ve been in Lake Atitlan(meaning'at the water´) for almost a week now and we still dont feel the need to move on! First of all this place is beautiful! It is the deepest lake in Central America and has a 3 volcanoes and Mayan villages surrounding it. It is also known as the Mayan scared place. We found a town called San Pedro or what we call our little retreat. Its full of artists, people studying spanish, yoga and meditation from all over the world! San Pedro is split into 2 really, up at the top is the very much local town whilst the bottom is a few roads or alley ways that run parallel to the water with health food cafes and nice restaurants. Theres plenty to do here, lovely shops, kayaking(which we have ... read more
A local resturant
Our little pal for the evening
Our treat


On my final day at the lakes decide I must go swimming. I climb through the path of a natural wildlife park and then scramble down the rocks and drop into the beautiful deep emerald water. I have the lake completley to myself – the basin of water is lit up silver by the sun like a bowl of mercury lapping at the foot of the green hills that rise in smoky peaks around me. Yellow butterflies dance at the waters edge, electric blue dragonflies ski over the water. Further down there are small boys jumping off trees into the water. I make my way back to the posada- San Marco is a litte rabbit warren of tiny cobbled streets leading up hill dotted with gringo cafes and restaurants along the way. In some of the ... read more
Maria
Lake swimming
My favourite rabid dog


I get the bus for Guatemala at 7.30 in the morning – I sit up front again with the driver who has a spiv's moustache and is wearing a pin stripe trilby for some reason. At first I am squashed between him and his teenage son but at the breakfast break I insist on swapping – I have after all – paid for my ticket. I have been warned about the perils of Guatemala, how dangerous it is for tourists. I get talking to Violetta – a sixty year old Mexican who is visitng her friend in Lake Aititlan in Guatemala (where I am headed – the highlands of Guatemala...) "Dominique" – shey says..."you can do anything you want." Then she tells me about her various jobs form university, working as a legs model, doing rich ... read more
Naz and Maria
Views from the Yoga Hostel
My Chilean witch


When you're in Guatemala, it's hard not to notice the moutains. It takes hours to get everywhere as you weave up and down and between them, your ears popping as you cope with the altitude. At night they're lit up by trememdous thunderstorms. In Xela itself, surrounded by mountains and the enormous Santa Maria, you're already at 2000m. So it would be silly just to stare at them, and not climb one. Right? Xela is home to a number of tour agencies, but Quetzaltrekkers caught my eye - both in the guidebook and on the street. The guidebook informed me that they were a non-profit (a favourite phrase of mine) organisation, staffed by volunteers. My introductory chat at the beautifully painted Casa Argentina in town informed me that entirety of their income goes towards a home ... read more
Me, Carrie and some of the UD crew on the way up
View from the top
A cloudy sunrise


I finally arrived in Quetzaltenango (Xela) around 6pm. My host, Thelma, was stood at the door of an alleyway to meet me from the shuttle which had bought me to her door. It seemed her home had been built on a tiny patch of land that lay between houses in the middle of a block. There was no hallway to speak of, just a series of doors off the alleyway which led to the kitchen-diner, a sitting room, and Telmas room. There was a small bathroom next to the stairs. Under the stairs lives an aggressive Chihuahua, which I am permanently fighting the urge to drop-kick down the alley. Upstairs, corrugated plastic keeps the rain off the balcony, which leads to 2 bedrooms, one belonging to Telmas middle aged son. I have forgotten his name, but ... read more


So. This week couldn´t be much different from last. I ended last week sat on a derserted tropical island with some of my favourite people, sipping drinks in the shallows and snorkelling in the sea. I ended this one sat in my rain mac and my prettiest dress in an internet cafe sheltering from the tremendous thunderstorm illuminating the mountains that surround Xela. I was supposed to be going out with my fellow students from El Nahual language school, but the thunderstorm and rain got the better of them and they bailed. My journey here was pretty tough. Hannah and I left Utila on Tuesday.We´d made plans with a camp Brazillian cigar salesman called Alejandro (no, really) to travel with him as far as Copan Ruinas and stay overnight at his place, but that all went ... read more




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