Blogs from Western Highlands, Guatemala, Central America Caribbean - page 11

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Easter (or Semana Santa) is no small thing here and this week has been a lively one. After various events for Cuarismo (Lent), the Semana Santa celebrations began last Thursday with a small children's parade which I saw in passing in the Parque Central. Things got more lively on Thursday with the Huelga de Dolores. This 115-year-old event is organised by the politically minded students at San Carlos, Guatemala's public university, which has an arm in Quetzaltenango. During the many years of conflict, the students adopted full body masks to avoid repercussions (though the death toll on university students was still high), although now in Xela at least things are taken less seriously. However, the politics was not completely forgotten, as they were dancing and skipping around floats bearing megaphones and posters with many slogans, such ... read more


Geo: 14.6367, -90.5383Pollo Campero is everywhere in Guatemala, and is both a cultural quirk and cultural phenomenon of the country, essentially their equivalent of Tim Horton's - but about 1000 times more popular! Though it first started in Guatemala, it has spread throughout Latin America, the US, and even overseas to Asia. Guatemalans who have emigrated are even known to take a few boxes on the plane after having visited their homeland, because they love the stuff so much. Every location we have come across is always busy, but the lineups in Antigua today were out of hand and poured out into the streets, since it was the start of Guatemala's massive Holy Week celebrations and Antigua was bursting with people. I suppose that is fitting, since Pollo Campero seems to be more a religion than ... read more
Wrecked ...
Bright and Colourful Guatemalan Tourist Crap
Faith and Devotion ...


Geo: 14.56, -90.74Antigua is considered the crown jewel of Guatemala's tourist offerings, and it's easy to see why - it offers history, natural beauty, both ruined and beautifully-restored colonial architecture, and though quite expensive by Guatemalan standards, is still relatively reasonable for North American travelers. Also, don't forget the dining scene in Antigua, which not only has some of the best restaurants in all of Guatemala, but also countless cafes and coffee shops that are the perfect place to while away an afternoon or two. And it gets even better - many of these establishments are located in spectacularly atmospheric courtyards, full of greenery and colonial ruins.It's a tourist Shangri-La - the type of place that backpackers seek to chill out for a week, a location where you can do as much, or as little as ... read more
One of Antigua's Many Craft Markets
Casa Santo Domingo ...
San Jose El Viejo


One of the activities at my Spanish scool (El Mundo en Español) is chocolate making in the traditional Guatemalan style, run by Cyndi who has her own small chocolate company. But Guatemalan chocolate is very different to what you buy in bars in England, and has only two ingredients. So here's how to make your genuine Guatemalan chocolate: 1. Sort the whole cocoa beans by size and toast them on tortilla griddles until they are dark in colour and making occasional crackly noises. 2. Cocoa beans are about the size of a Brazil nut and encased in a papery brown skin. When the beans have cooled a little, this skin can be crumbled off, leaving behind the bean, which is internally divided into irregular nibs which come apart with a little pressure. 3. Drop the dry ... read more


Geo: 14.6335, -91.2313Despite being overrun with backpackers, Pana has been a fun place to relax for the past couple of days; however, today was all about escaping from it all, to the smaller towns that surround Lake Atitlan. These other towns are still touristy, but nowhere near as overdeveloped as Pana - but what they lack in amenities, they more than make up for with charm. There are those that would avoid Pana altogether in favour of Santiago Atitlan, San Pedro, or San Juan, and its easy to see why - they simply offer something different from Pana, be it tranquility, or some shred of Guatemalan cultural authenticity. For all the fun of Pana, there's nothing quiet or real about it; it exists solely to service the constant procession of backpackers passing through. It's a shame ... read more
Local Artists ...
Our Guide Alejandro ...
San Pedro La Laguna ...


Having been in Quetzaltenango over three weeks without managing to get to a museum, I eventually spared an afternoon to pay a visit to the Casa de la Cultura which sits at one end of the Parque Central. This now ranks amongst my Bizarrest Museum Experiences Ever (Right up there with the Lake District Pencil Museum). The first room I entered featured details on industrial uses of various chemical elements beside a display of old money, a fossil of something called a Gliptodonte and information on how to make chewing gum. The next room, the Natural History room, was both lined and filled with stuffed animals, with a few painted sea shells and human fetuses thrown in for good measure. Just when I thought I'd seen everything, I noticed that above my head, balanced precariously atop ... read more


Geo: 14.73, -91.15Revenge may be a dish best served cold, but tortillas are best served hot! That's perhaps the best guide book quote ever, and it's a statement that only begins to hint at the importance of corn tortillas to the Guatemalan kitchen. Seen on the table during breakfast, lunch, and dinner, a meal simply would be a meal in this country if there weren't any fresh, warm tortillas.We've only had fresh corn tortillas a few times before back in Calgary but weren't fans, despite foodies raving about the varieties made by local Latin markets. Dry, bland, and crumbly, they made better coasters than accompaniments to a meal. But here in Guatemala, you can find some pretty fine tortillas, usually hand made and arriving at your table fresh off the grill. Every meal is like Christmas, ... read more
Famous Tuk Tuks of Atitlan
View From the Hotel
Intricate Craftsmanship of the Region


On Saturday, I walked up Quetzaltenango's little mountain, Baúl, with Cindy from the language school. While it's unwise to climb Baúl alone, particularly in the afternoons, in the mornings it's a very popular walk for city dwellers. The path up passes under fragrant eucalyptus and pine trees, tranquil except for the subdued noise of traffic from the city below. From the wooded top, you can see almost all of Xela filling a large valley, which looks even more relaxed from above than it does from the streets, with low buildings and neighbourhoods broken up by parks and fields. Cindy pointed out a few landmarks like the Parque Centro America, the cemetary and the football stadium. Baúl gets its name from an old story connected with the place. It is said that the people who use to ... read more


Geo: 14.6367, -90.5383Less than a week after returning from Italy, and having finally digested the remainder of food consumed during that epic orgy of food, the next set of random ramblings begins, this time in a another far-off and exotic land - Salt Lake City, Utah!  It may not be at the top of anybody's list of exciting travel destinations, but it was Tam's stag, and he wanted to hit up the epic snow in Utah - but unfortunately, we found more fresh snow had formed in our condo's freezer than had fallen in any of the nearby ski resorts!  Luckily for us this was a stag weekend, so the lack of snow meant we could focus on other activities that Salt Lake City is known for - such as drinking and strippers!  Oh, wait ... Utah ... read more
More Snow in My Hand Than On the Mountain
Coolest Hipster Bar in All of Utah ...
Utah Vs Golden State ...


After a week in Xela, I decided that I needed to do something a little different for the weekend before starting Spanish classes. And where better to begin my Guatemalan travels than Lago de Atitlan, which everybody here has been raving about since I arrived? I got up early and caught the microbus to Minerva terminal, where various helpful drivers directed me to the bus to Panajachel. It was a forty minute wait on the bus, during which time vendors scrambled on and off, pushing up and down selling ice creams, sweets, tortillas, newspapers, drinks and essentially anything else portable. The journey took a few hours, then from Panajachel I caught a tuk-tuk to La Reserva Natural Atitlan. This is a privately owned park set in secondary forest over a coffee plantation. Trails across the hillside ... read more




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