Blogs from Western Highlands, Guatemala, Central America Caribbean - page 12

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Blog 8 Adios, Atitlán We are approaching the end of our idyll here on the world's most beautiful lake. We have a thick vine of orchid flowers on our terrace, and every evening tiny hummingbirds come to feast on the nectar just as night is falling. All day long we hear exotic bird calls, and sometimes we spot the birds they belong to. And there is always the deep blue Lake Atitlán in the background. Today we met the owner of Hotel Bambú; he was dressed in work clothing and was out with the gardeners who keep the grounds here so immaculate. This explains a lot. He is a govenment official of some kind, but his heart is in landscape gardening. It will be so easy for it all to go to hell when he is ... read more
2.My jeweled frog
3.My hat
4.Maya women, Santiago Atitlán


On Sunday March 3 we hired Álvaro, son of the owner of Hotel Bambú, and went off with two other gringos (Robert and Carol, from Washington state) to explore the village of Santiago Atitlán. Álvaro speaks excellent English but has never been to the US. He is well educated, and will probably inherit Hotel Bambú some day and ruin it by good management. Santiago Atitlán is about a mile down a back road from the hotel, a very Maya place. The market there has good hand woven textiles, which Robert and Carol were looking for, but not us. We have a beautiful glass beaded frog and a coffee mug we liked, and a red embroidered table cloth, but nothing else. Our luggage is too heavy already. This village is the home of a hybrid Christian and ... read more
2.Maximón
3. Ceiling decorations
4.Gringo Viejo, about to begin


We left our wonderful $55 per night hotel in Antigua (Posada La Merced), and came by van with several other turistas to the town of Panajachel on Lake Atitlan. It was a pretty nice drive through little Guatemalan towns that almost crowded onto the road, interspersed with long stretches of the verdant Guatemalan countryside. We rose fairly steadily at first into the Western Highlands , a winding highway, up and down, for about two and a half hours until we caught our first glimpse of Atitlan. It lies in the caldera of an ancient supervolcano , fed by several small rivers, but having no outlet to the sea. Someday it will be a salty lake, but not yet; it is still young, only about a million and a half years old. In the years after the ... read more
2.Hotel Bambu from the water
3.From our balcony
4.Hotel garden 1


Yesterday was an exciting day. Yesterday I was reunited with my bag. Guatemala City airport sent it swaddled in cling film, covered in a variety of red stickers, directly to the door of my room. The important thing about my bag arriving was, of course, that it was full of lots of lovely donations for the Nuevos Horizontes shelter. And as yesterday was my first visit, I think that's perfect timing on the part of the airport. I met Allison, the volunteer co-ordinator, and the two other new volunteers outside El Cuartito cafe and we walked to La Democracia (where the main market is) to get the bus. The shelter is spacious, purpose-built house set in an almost Mediterranean landscape. At the moment, it's overflowing with small children, mostly boys, who were very excited to see ... read more


Having now spent a full day getting thoroughly lost in Quetzaltenango, I feel I am qualified to call it Xela and write opinions of it. In St Petersburg, the guide book said that all locals affectionately called the city Peter, but I got the feeling that calling it that as a visitor would be looked on a lot like being introduced to the Queen and calling her Lizzy. Not so with Xela. Xela comes from the Maya name Xelajú, meaning under the ten, refering to the surrounding mountains. I´m not sure if there are actually ten of these - there seem to be many more, encircling the city in a hazy, wooded cuddle. I like it here. The town is quite quiet - on a scale of 1 to 10 where 1 is Cairo and 10 ... read more


Directly up 15a Avenida from the Hostal (and not at all in the place given by Rough Guide), La Dispensa Familiar sits hidden behind the busy market of La Democracia. Since I gather Steve is interested, I thought I´d give a little description. There are two guards and a row of lockers just inside the wide door, but inside things are much like a normal small supermarket, except a lot dirtier and more chaotic. I was somewhat surprised to see a man´s full torso sticking out from one of the top shelves - turns out he had climbed up to do the stacking. There´s not much fruit and veg inside, as why would you buy it from a supermarket when you could barter for it in the market? (This is something I´ve not quite had the ... read more


Left Hotel Dos Lunas at 6am to catch the bus to Quetzaltenango. In the Guide, this is marked as leaving town at 6am, in the leaflet for Linea Dorado it says it leaves at 8am, but it actually left at 7am, which I will take as a warning to call the bus station before any long distance journey. Victor, the driver from Hotel Dos Lunas, took me to the bus station via McDonalds which is the breakfast provided in the Hotel Dos Lunas Xela package, meaning that my first meal in Guatemala was a McMuffin. I enjoyed the bus journey, as once again I got to sit by the window. Guatemala is by no means a flat country, and when the view wasn´t blocked by the dusty side of a valley, think trees or crowded houses, ... read more


After 4 nights in Player El Tunco we headed up to Guatemala. The beach was beautiful and we had a great time relaxing and catching up with other people we met in San Juan Dur Sel. Scott got a haircut, we swam in the ocean each day enjoying the sun and ate great food each night! Guatemala has a population of 13.1 million, famous for maya sights and the budget was around $20 USD a day. After a 7 hour shuttle ride we arrived in Antigua which is an hour from the Capìtal of Guatemala city. Antigua is one of the main tourist cities in Guatemala and is a town nestled between three volcanoes, the streets are all cobbled stoned paved and a city rich in culture and history. Antigua is known for its craft markets, ... read more
ONe small little Lady
Antigua
City Centre in Antigua


'Paradise' is such a fleeting concept, no? Five days ago, we arrived in San Pedro and considered never leaving. Tomorrow morning, we leave at sunrise. A lot can happen in five days, I'll try to recount the highlights and explain our change of heart. Let's start with the positives - we've had a great time in San Pedro, met a couple interesting folk, and enjoyed our beautiful apartment (including the hammock I am currently sitting on as I type, see photo). Sara really enjoyed her Spanish classes and learned a lot in just a week. Muchas gracias a la maestra se llama Cecilia en La Cooperativa (Much thanks to the teacher named Cecilia in La Cooperativa, the cooperatively run spanish language school that we highly recommend). We've enjoyed the view of the lake although have not ... read more
My Work Station with a View
Drying coffee beans
Avocados growing next to the road


Not to start off this blog post bragging - but with 20(ish) countries under our belt, Sara and I might be getting a hang of this traveling thing. Within 24 hours in Guatemala, we'd made it to our destination - a sweet hippie-infested town called San Pedro la Laguna on the beautiful Lake Atitlan, signed Sara up for her first week of spanish classes, and secured ourselves an amazing apartment with wifi, a kitchen, warm water shower AND a balcony with a hammock in view of the lake. How did we get here? Well... Before I start - I apologize for the photos being out of alignment with the blog, thats just how this site works. Sara's sister Fay dropped us off at LGA airport at 4am for our 6am flight - it was terrible timing ... read more
Turquoise + Purple Painted Truck, Sweet
Random Wall
Antigua




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