Blogs from Lago de Atitlán, Western Highlands, Guatemala, Central America Caribbean - page 19

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Well, after a week and a half at the lake, I am on my way to other destinations. I have spent my time here studying Spanish in San Pedro, climbing the Indian’s nose out of San Juan (4 hours round trip) which has a beautiful view of the lake and volcanoes. I am now visiting Santiago to see the Mayan God Maximon. Maximon is in a dim lit room with incense and his mortal guardians. The locals give him offerings of rum, cigarettes and money. Maximon is a wooden depiction of the God, complete with a cigar in his mouth. He is draped in silk scarves and has a sweet hat. If God was a pimp, it would be Maximon. Within the town is an old cathedral that holds traditional wooden carvings of numerous saints. They ... read more
Maximon
The Indian Nose
La Iguana Party


Noin, vihdoinkin paasin Lago de Atitlanin rannalle San Pedroon, alkuperainen suunnitelma oli paasta tanne perjantaina, mutta.. eei ihan onnistunut. Floresista etelaan on siis kaksi reittia, Rio Dulcen ja tasaisen maan kautta 8-10h, tai sitten suoraan etelaan, vuoristoteita pitkin. El Rematessa, keskiviikkona, paivana ennen suunniteltua lahtoa eteen pomppasi engelsmanni Paul, joka on kulkenut autolla USA:sta Meksikon ja Belizen lapi Guatemalaan. Paul oli myos menossa Lago de Atitlanille, joten paatimme kaikki yhdessa, mina, Nate, Rachel ja Paul, matkustaa autolla etelaan ja samalla kayda katsomassa Semuc Champeyn vesiputoukset ym. Ensimmaisena paivana matka kulki varsin mutkattomasti, aina Lanquiniin ja Semuc Champeyyn johtavaan risteykseen asti. Karttaan tie oli merkitty ihan mukavan nakoisena, hyvakuntoisena tiena, mutta totuus rupesi paljastumaan siina vaiheessa, kun 30 km:n matkaan ol... read more


I have decided to spend some more time in Central America. After traveling back to Antigua I hopped a bus to Panajachel on Lago de Atitlan. From Panajachel I boarded a boat to cross the lake to the town of San Pedro La Laguna. The town is all but in the sense of the word, but more of a large village. Many Gringos come here and never leave, creating a sizable bohemian/hippy community. The lake is surrounded by three massive volcanoes and the lake is a collapsed crater. I am spending a week here and have enrolled in Spanish Classes for 4 hours a day. The water is blue, the days sunny and hot, and the nights quite cool. Music is always to be found as well as a smile and greeting from locals and travelers ... read more
Jesus is the Man!


Last Sunday I had the urge to do something a little different. I felt like moving around just for it's own sake. Trying to find a good loop or route is something often installed in a travellers' mind. Bearing in mind I only had a day, I decided to set myself the target of trying to work my way around the lake stopping at every town along the way. I started off with the ferry to Santiago. On arrival I moved through town fairly quickly, asking around in the market where pick-ups left from. On a relatively uncrowded pick-up, locals gave me that bemused/intrigued look I often seem to receive (probably my towering height), I smiled and nodded and after a while there eyes wondered elsewhere. A beautiful clear blue sky stretched out above us as ... read more
Santiago Market


Wow, what a difference a day makes. Yesterday I was pretty lonely, and questioned the decision to break away from the group. Today, no regrets. I began the day trying to figure out how to gain the trust of the locals in Santiago de Atitlan, so that I could photograph their beautiful, purple clothing and their truely exquisite faces. Its hard, because I didn't want to take pictures with my zoom, without them knowing. It feels like stealing from them, and most don't want their picture taken. Then if I asked, they would either charge anywhere from 1 to 10 quetzales, about 15 cents to a buck 45. Not much really, but I ran out of small change quickly. It seemed to me that the ones with the most beautiful, interesting faces, didn't really want their ... read more


A few days ago I had two interesting discussions, both, coincedentally, with Dutch Girls about voluntary work and development projects. I explained how I was trying to get going an English school with the idea of passing on the reins once it had got going and eventually trying to move the idea onwards and upwards. I have encountered more problems than I had anticipated, mainly a mixture of the Mañana culture of the people and unreliability of my partner in business. The first Dutch girl saw the benefit of what I was trying to do, but generally had a negative attitude towards development seeing it as a no-win situation with regards to setting up workable schemes. In her view, on one side you have western people running things for locals leathered with difficulties because of cultural ... read more


Several weeks ago on what appeared my last night in San Pedro, I took what seemed my last walk around the place. The hippy pathways leading to all sorts of weird and wonderful bars, the kids cloaked in traditional Mayan dress selling "pan de banan, pan de chocalate....", the semi-permenant gringo residents selling jewellery in the street, old men in full traditional dress armed with machetes etc etc. Seeing the same faces in the street, gives a sense of being in the town, a part of it, not just like looking through unintentially superficial and misleading tourist eyes. As it turned out it wasn't my last night as a met a girl later than evening and subsquently my plans changed to focusing on some more Spanish and now, teaching English in San Pedro. Anyway, pushing on ... read more


We arrived at Lago Atitlan last Sunday after a few hours in a packed van drinking water and eating trail mix. After taking a boat across the lake we were greeted by lots of kids on the dock in San Marcos. The smallest of all decided to carry my big backpack up the hill and around the corner to our sleeping quaters, the pack was basically the size of the child! We stayed in San Marcos and travelled to 2 small villages nearby to begin our stove building adventure. The first day I helped build a stove in a house that was smaller than my room at home. We were mixing cement, breaking cement blocks and bricks with machettes, and buliding the stove alongside 5 people in one tiny house. The Mayan people we are building ... read more
The Littlest Hobo
Jeff hard at work...seriously.


As a break from Spanish lessons in San Pedro I decided to take a couple of excursions. First off I climbed to the peak of the hill that towers above San Juan. I started early that morning. Walking along the road between San Pedro and San Juan several guides offered up their services while older men armed with machetes ventured off in search of firewood. The morning light and low lying mist created a beautiful vista over the lake, showing it at it´s best and most peaceful. San Juan lacks much of obvious and immediate interest in comparison to it´s neighbours, and subsquently has few visitors. However the town seemed a little more awake there with people bashing away in workshops, shops open, kids selling things in the streets and many people just hanging around with ... read more
The church


There are Mayan villages surrounding the Lake. We stop in Santiago and it is here that I can see the poverty of the Mayan people, who have gotten some pretty crappy deals over the years. As the boat pulls up from the dock natives run to meet you. I am accustomed to this from other countries, but I have never seen it under these conditions before... the dogs on the street look like skeletons, flies swarming around them, I don´t know if they are dead or sleeping. children pulling at my arms and legs, begging for money for food, not all the villages are in this condition, but I am searching for smiles here too...there are smiles everywhere...I just can´t find them here. I don´t want to sound like some kind of world hunger campaign, but ... read more
San Antonio




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