Blogs from Lago de Atitlán, Western Highlands, Guatemala, Central America Caribbean - page 20

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This weekend was a 2 day excursion to Lago de Atitlan (Lake Atitlan), which is about 2 hours from Antigua. about the lake: the massive Los Chocoyos erruption of 85,000 years ago, which blew volcanic ash as far as Florida and Panama, caused a quantity of magma to expel from below the earths crust and the surface terrain to collapse, forming a huge roughly circular hollow that sooned filled with water - the Lago de Atitlan. Smaller volcanoes rose out of the lake´s southern waters thousands of years later and now surround the lake. The dramatic volcano vistas are what make Atitlan what it is today. (The lake is 300m deep, surface area 128 sq km). - compliments of Lonely Planet. We spend 2 days visiting the Lake and some of the surrounding Mayan villages.... read more


Early morning Saturday we piled into a minivan bound for Panajachel, one of the small towns that surround Lake Atitlan (Lago de Atitlan) which is a huge lake in the South West highlands of Guatemala. The lake is around 300 metres deep and is serviced by dozens of small passenger boats (lanchas) that take locals and tourists alike between the towns. In September last year this area of Guatemala was ravaged by torrential rain that caused numerous mudslides and casualties. Our speedy drive into Panajachel was often punctuated by the driver slowing down to navigate an area where the road had slid down the mountain we were traversing. On roads at such heights it proved to be a spectacular trip. Just before you come into Panajachel there is a bridge that crosses a large riverbed. The ... read more
Santiago
The lake
Sunset by the lake


The day after visiting Santiago Atitlan I continued my mental rest this time with some physical exercise which required little thought - tackling San Pedro Volcän. At 3020m high this would be probably the highest altitude I have climbed to, although starting at just under 2000m made the task seem a lot easier. A hefty entry fee of Q100 (about US$13, less for locals) was necessary with a rather unusual arrangement of being the same price with or without a guide - this basically being to encourage employment, by subsidising this, to strongly encourage people to take a guide (also for security reasons). However I prefer walking at my own pace, alone so I can take in the surroundings better, discussing things later with others. This bemused the guys in the ticket office and they keep ... read more
Morning Mist


Etter en lang uke med spansk var det endelig helg. Sammen med Judith og Maren fra Holland og Cornelia og Celine fra Tyskland dro jeg til Panahajel ved Lago de Atitlan tidlig lordag morgn. Her i Guatemala er det to maatr aa bevege seg paa, enten med de allerede omtalte chickenbussene eller med det dyrere, men dog mer behagelige alternativet shuttle. Vi gikk for det siste, da det ikke fristet aa staa i to og en halv time i en trang buss paa en svingete vei. 0700 lordag morgen (det er en kjempefordel aa komme hit med jet lag, for da kan man faktisk programmere kroppen til aa ville sove klokken halv ti - ti og staa opp klokken seks) troppet vi opp hos reiseselskapet. Turen til Panahajel betalte vi 36 kroner for og skulle vaere ... read more
Lago de Atitlan
Offentlig baat
Lago de Atitlan fra San Marcos


I finished my last article a little puzzled about the attitude of many a traveller with some more thought, and help from a book, I have come up with a way to shed a bit of light of this. A few defintions and terms are necessary first. I´m going to borrow the terms from Zen and the Art of Motorcycle maintenance. A simplistic breaking down of human understanding gives two types: Classical and Romantic. Classical being ´primarily one of underlying form´, this basically means seeing things as part of structure where logic rules and things are restricted. And with Romantic being ´primarily in terms of apperance´ which is a little more self-explanatory. Both schools of thought suffer from similar problems and this can be seen when pretentiousness is considered. Classical Pretentiousness to the other school: Here ... read more


....I mentioned to her my idea of volunteering, she dismissively responded saying she saw much volunteering and much charity given but little changing. I explained that it´s small potatoes for what is given with one hand and grab back twice over through the near-hidden means of business and economics. This isn´t to say that it isn´t worth doing the forementioned, and the very fact many people think like this is part of the problem. For example it´s lots of singular votes which makes up an election. But this is little different. The whole development issue isn´t simply a matter of money, it´s much more complex than that. Furthermore few things in this world are completely independent of one another. An example of such a link is increased tourism. Increase tourism doesn´t just bring in money ... read more


Guatemalan history and the recent, lengthy, civil war is in large a story of perscution, racism, injustice and war. Many of it´s fellow Central American countries have suffered from the same fate. Following on from a previous point, this this is the reason why some indigenous people (mostly men) don´t wear the traditional dress, to avoid persecution. It´s typical in Guatemalan society for the men to do the work outside of the home environment and ,as a result, they put themselves in the front line, identifying themselves as supporters of the rebels forces from the civil war (mostly indigenous people though this was a frequent misidentification). My language school owner was one, he sees himself as weak for conforming, compromising with this. Using the same counter argument as used in the Zapatistas stuff, Do you stand ... read more


... overshadowing the flaws in his thinking and his lack of actual achievements. A man to be liked more than admired, he fought with passion and was honest towards his own short-comings but has more fame than his 'achievements' deserve. A theme consistent in Latin American where the people are fond of lifting people to God like status, untouchable by criticism. In many ways they become a symbol for a idea, a movement. Maintaining the myth of perfection is useful in bringing a face or a name to cause or an idea, almost marketing it. Hence Zapata, a man who deserves more recognition, was only to found in the history books until the Zapatistas reminded us of him. There's a book, harshly titled 'Latin American Idiots' (didn't sell well in LAm), written by Latin Americans ... read more


Admittably I've plopped this in my current location bit although much of this relates to Chiapas, Mexico. A book I'm reading at the moment has captured my political, philosphical and moral imagination and I feel I need to write about it here. The Zaptistatas are named after Emiliana Zapata, a prominient figure in the 1910 revolution in bringing rights to indigenous people after hundreds of years of abuse. This period was many a subject of a Diego Riviera Mural (see Mexico City bit). He suceeded in creating some land reforms, which have since been recinded in order to allow NAFTA (North American Free Trade Agreement) to take place and basically allow rich companies to kick indigenous people off their land (again) and force them in to confirming with the Capatilist system (basically to live in poverty ... read more


After a day and a half of frustrating travel, due to many reasons, I arrived in San Pedro La Laguna via a overnight stop in Guatemala City. Within about ten minutes of arrival a guy had lead me to a hotel and language school and I had parted with money to both. Language schools are amazingly cheap here, with 20hrs lessons 1-1, accomodation and food setting you back only about US$90. The general consesus among travellers is that the standard of teaching is not hot, but for what I wanted (a lot of conservational practice) this is not too important and still provides excellent value for money. Of course the flip side of the coin tells you that by the time the language school has pocketed it's bit the teacher is unlikely to earning much over ... read more




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