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Published: February 6th 2006
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Lago de Atitlan
Beautiful views from the shore of the lake. Early morning Saturday we piled into a minivan bound for Panajachel, one of the small towns that surround Lake Atitlan (Lago de Atitlan) which is a huge lake in the South West highlands of Guatemala. The lake is around 300 metres deep and is serviced by dozens of small passenger boats (lanchas) that take locals and tourists alike between the towns. In September last year this area of Guatemala was ravaged by torrential rain that caused numerous mudslides and casualties. Our speedy drive into Panajachel was often punctuated by the driver slowing down to navigate an area where the road had slid down the mountain we were traversing. On roads at such heights it proved to be a spectacular trip. Just before you come into Panajachel there is a bridge that crosses a large riverbed. The riverbed barely has a trickle running through it but is a good 100 metres wide and is peppered with large rocks and boulders. In the middle of all of the river is a small island with a house precariously sitting on the extremes of the raised land. The house was covered by what looked like graffiti. A few days later a bus driver explained to
Santiago
The first place we visited during our trip to the lake. me that before the rains the area had been the site of several expensive homes - however, when the river flooded they were almost all washed away leaving the one house standing. The writing on the house wasn’t graffiti - it was written by the owner, thanking God for not being swept down the river.
After arriving in town we ran into Bec again. Bec was visiting her mate Jimmy - also a med student from UNSW - who was also doing a practical term in Guatemala. Jimmy was volunteering across the lake just outside the town of Santiago Atitlan. It was here during the rains that a huge mudslide had occurred and buried part of the town. It is estimated that over 1200 people were buried alive. Since then, little or no excavation of the site has been undertaken because there were no funds to assist.
Jimmy had been working with an international organization in the refugee camp just next to where the mudslide occurred. There are around 80 families living there and the medical team has been trying to help the people with the limited resources they have.
We caught a boat over to Santiago
The lake
Another nice photo. to hang out with Bec and Jimmy. The town itself was quite bustling and we came across several of the doctors that were volunteering at the refugee camp or at the local hospital. It was an odd feeling sitting in a town where only a few kilometers away there was a mass grave. It is a shame that it had received so little international attention when it occurred. Bec introduced me to an American freelance photo-journalist who was doing a story on the landslide however if it had happened in the Western World we would be talking about it for decades to come.
On a brighter (or more saccharin) note, Lake Atitlan is truly spectacular! Surrounded by volcanoes it certainly provides for some nice photo opportunities when sitting at the bar, lakeside at sunset.
On our second day in Panajachel we jumped on a boat bound for San Pedro La Laguna. From there we walked around and explored the lake. After walking a long a track for a bit we jumped in and had a dip. Sitting on the lake on some enormous rocks in the sun certainly brought home the benefits of being in Central America on
Sunset by the lake
After arguing with Julian that all sunsets are the same I was deeply impressed by this one. holiday!
Every now and then an explosion would go off in one of the surrounding mountains and the sound would ricochet around the lake. We thought it was pretty odd but none of the Guatemalans who were out enjoying their Sunday swim seemed to be bothered so we ignored it.
Later that afternoon we caught a boat back to the other side of the lake. Joining us on the boat was a bunch of “down and out” travelers resplendent in their dreads and hemp pants. I was cursing them when they got in the back of the boat and stunk out the whole vessel with their questionable deodorizing habits. However, I think some Mayan god answered my mumbling, terse prayers when one particularly stinky hippy got so soaked during the trip that he
a) had to move to the front of the boat, out of the nasal detection; and
b) he got a good wash in the process.
Funnily enough, I thought the guy looked like a hippy version of myself - ie dreads, beard, skinny, glasses. Rather than giving human or animal sacrifices to the Mayan god who helped me out (as was the usual
Sun setting
Real pretty. custom back then as I am told by the purveyor of all truth - the Lonely Planet) I thought I would just imitate my enemy - and grow a beard!
In a similar style to the DDD for the CCC (Designated Dicksticker Day for the Crazy Cancer Competition) I participated in a few years ago I am now engaging in Patrick’s Crazy Mayan Beard Challenge (the PCMBC - got a ring to it don’t you think?). I have vowed to quit shaving until the sight is so unbearable or I am mistaken for Che Guevara. Either, or, I’m guessing the PCMBC lasts until my next update when I discover a three toned beard is ugly and itchy. Watch the photos to check my progress.
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