Well, after buzzing around Guatemala and Mexico, and spending every other day on a bus, Caye Caulker in Belize was exactly what I needed. The caye is a 45 minute boat ride from sketchtown Belize City. Forget cars, forget paved roads, forget ambition; the pace of life on Caye Caulker is almost at a standstill. The entire island is a beach spotted with lazed out tourists and dreadlocked rhastafarians. The only way to get around is walk, bike, or catch a lift on one of the many golf carts buzzing around. The first day there I went on a snorkelling tour out to the second largest reef in the world, the largest in this hemisphere. I was unreal. Lots of life, we saw a huge spotted eagleray within our first few minutes. Then the guide brought
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