So, 0730 flight says Dhana- you've got to be up at 0530, breaky at 0600, airport at 0700 is the schedule. OK- got that. Dutifully up at 0530, packed and having the usual at 0600. It is still dark, the sky is that beautiful colour before the sun emerges and there is not a cloud to be seen (damn). Breakfast is a very quiet affair. Ready to head to the airport at 0615- and it is only a 50 metre walk down the road- I am ready to now just get it over with. Dhana insists that we should have some more tea- Why??? Dhana knew something we didn't. (It transpires that the first plane has been cancelled and now won't leave until 0930). We say goodbye and thankyou very much to Santos and give him ... read more

Ultimately a great sleep after yesterday's huge day. We plan to explore Muktinath this morning and head on to Kagbeni (2800m) this afternoon as it is a relatively short downhill walk. I am eager to explore the Hindu and Buddhist sacred sites of The Muktinath Temple. We retrace our steps from yesterday through the town - we see our German med student friends from Yak Kharka and the Danish couple from Manang. Everyone is looking squeaky clean and relaxed. We head up the hill, passing back through the kani entrance to the village, there are lots of stalls set up selling religious medals, necklaces, ribbons and strings. Moving along... we walk along the track and up the steps. It is really busy with Indian and local pilgrims. Those that can't walk up the hill get aride ... read more

Despite yesterday's horrors I can't wait to get stuck into today. We take the summer path which is essentially pretty flat. Each little ascent that we make though is getting harder, it has become noticeable to me now that we are at higher altitude. SOBOE- the abbreviation that I use at work all the time for short of breath on exertion springs to mind. The track is dusty and stony, there is no low lying ice or snow. We take our first long suspension bridge for the day over to the other side and pass through Chuli Lether (Letdar)- lots of spelling variations it seems. We don't stop, it's only been an hour or so of walking to this point. Another hour of the same terrain brings us across another even longer bridge and we take ... read more

This morning we leave Manang heading for Khangsar (3734m). Few stops to take some photos of the bakery produce- it all looks so good! And we are off.... Our group of 4 (Mary, Dhana, Santos and I) has become 5- Stephane has asked if it is OK for him to join us for a few days. It is quite forested for part of the way; pine plantations along the lower banks of the river and extending up the hills, with silver birch at the higher levels, all amongst the snow. The song, "It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas", pops into my head, I suppress the urge to sing .... Easy walking this morning along dusty trails . The river has really narrowed, we have a bit of an uphill climb leading into Khangsar. The ... read more

I wake up happy (again). Decision is made to take the low road along the valley floor from Pisang to Manang rather than the more challenging high road via Ghyaru. The Marsyangdi is with us for most of another day. It is pretty much flat terrain again, we spend the morning in the pine forests with just a few climbs. There are many mani walls to be admired, I really like the coloured inscriptions on the grey stone. We pass old and young men with heavy loads and not so heavy but really awkward loads. There is ice and a lot more snow on the trail. Mary is having trouble with her boots- they aren't gripping the ice, at one point a friendly Korean from Canada helps her out. The views this morning are incredible and ... read more