Our hostel has the advantage of being right next to Delhi Gate tube station so after a quick breakfast we went to get the metro across to New Delhi. The wonderful thing about metro systems is that they’re fairly similar world wide and so it was easy to buy a ticket and find our platform. And it’s air conditioned. It’s so similar to home there was even a WHSmith inside the station! Alighting the tube we walked to Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah. This is the mausoleum of a Muslim Sulfi saint who died in 1325 (Nizam-ud-din). There are a number of later kings and nobles whose tombs are nearby. The shrine is in a bazaar and down narrow lanes past people selling offerings. On the way you see the Baoli, a step well. To enter the shrine ... read more

Being a little cooler first thing in the morning we decided to get up early again today. I must admit that without knowing there was a boat waiting for us it was difficult but the call to prayers by the next door mosque at 5am helped wake us up. After finding someone to let us out of our guesthouse we wondered down to the Ghats to watch the morning goings on. The Ghats just north of the Manikarnika ghat (main burning ghat) were surprisingly quiet compared to those we rowed past at the same time to the south yesterday. There were a few men washing in the Ganges and a group having a religious service in an area at the back of the Ghat. Finding a place with a reasonable view we sat down to watch ... read more

We finally managed to get to Varanasi about midnight last night, only 12 hours later than planned. Our tuk tuk driver from the station didn’t seem that confident as to the exact location of our guesthouse and we found ourselves wondering down the narrow alleys somewhat unsure of where we were going. Fortunately a couple of nice locals en route reassured us we were going in the right direction and we soon arrived. Well locked up they fortunately answered the doorbell and were extremely kind and welcoming. Our room is small but clean and tidy and we were soon fast asleep. This morning we decided to do our usual wonder around. After a rooftop breakfast (with view of the Ganges) we walked down to the nearest ghat (munshi ghat) and then headed south along the river. ... read more

Today we managed to wake up at 5am and leave our hotel by 520am to head over to the Taj Mahal for sunrise. The ticket office opens 30mins before sunrise and the gate itself at sunrise (0605 at present). Despite all the guide books recommending sunrise it was not very busy at all and it was pleasant being able to enjoy it in relative quiet. The tickets are extremely expensive - 1100 rupees each for foreigners. There doesn’t seem much point coming to Agra and not seeing the Taj though! Interestingly enough chatting to a local he was saying when the government first increased the prices for tourists there was a week long strike in Agra. Since the price increase they’ve noticed fewer people staying in Agra meaning the hotels, restaurants and tuk tuk drivers are ... read more

Today is our last in Jaipur and we woke to lots of rain. We checked out of our hotel and walked over the the City Palace. It turns out the soles of my shoes are no longer waterproof so with somewhat soggy feet we entered the palace (all my footwear is falling apart). The palace is beautiful. Unfortunately of the part open to the public (the Royal family still live in much of it) half seems to have been taken over by shops. I rather resent spending a lot of money to see yet more shops and stalls full of things we don’t want or need! The first building you enter has a surprisingly interesting collection of textiles with descriptions of costumes for men and women. We next saw the armoury where they’ve obviously had a ... read more