After two minor clips and one too many near misses in that chaos they call traffic, I blew off Hanoi for Ninh Binh. Not exactly Vietnam's culinary capital but some friendly people, rustic village life amid a stunning rice paddy landscape, and more importantly, home to Tam Coc, the "inland Ha Long Bay". I imagined a few rocks sticking out of some fields but much to my wonderment there were dozens of gargantuan limestone rocks a la Ha Long Bay scattered among resplendent green rice paddies, lotus flower ponds, and a meandering river upon which you row. Many of the rocks serve as caves, and hideouts for some of Vietnam's most persistent sellers. However, when torrential rain hit, I didn't knock back the entrepreneurial 30c raincoat seller. After Tam Coc, Kien, my moto driver took me
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