Here in Hanoi, one of the western-style cafes (named the Kangaroo Cafe, and of course there are about 3 other rip-off "Kangaroo Cafes" around town!) sells T-shirts which proclaim, in Vietnamese, "No! I do not want... motorbike, cyclo, postcards, cigarettes, t-shirts, etc.. now go away!". I think it sells well. If the locals here actually learned the word "no" in their standard issue Vienglish textbooks, they're not letting on. In this city, with its amazing old quarter complete with a maze of narrow streets (named after the products sold on the street - I'm staying on Thuoc Bac Street, which must be Vietnamese for 'Pots and Pans") and motorbikes blocking every path, you are accosted non-stop by motorbike and cyclo drivers wanting to take you places as you walk (quicker than them) down the middle of
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