Fellow travelers agree, even on the road, sometimes you need a break. After getting back to Ninh Binh (Sadie, trying to outsmart the bus driver, ended up getting us screwed over, so we had to walk about 4 km to the station this time, with all our gear) we caught the train leaving shortly after for Dong Hoi. The train ride was a long 9 hours, and in the rush to catch a train that we wouldn't have to sleep on, we neglegted to ask for anything better than hard seats. And when they say hard, they mean it. It was everything we expected: sticky, uncomfortable, hot and dirty, but we loved it. Everyone was really friendly, we met a charming mother and daughter and managed to talk to them for a while (a combination of
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