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Asia » Nepal » Himalayas November 22nd 2012

After re-crossing the Dudh Kosi river several times, we came to the last, highest and longest bridge of them all. It even had a name - theLarjaBridge. Just getting up to the bridge entry point was pretty strenuous. The bridge floated above the river at dizzying height and we proceeded to cross – mindful not to cross when there were any Dzokyos or donkeys crossing to avoid being involved in an unnecessary bovine related disaster.... read more
A long way down

Asia » Nepal » Himalayas November 22nd 2012

The guides use Kerosene as fuel to provide us with boiling water for night time water bottles, morning time bowl washes and day time safe drinking water. Whilst I am hugely appreciative of this essential service, the fact they were doing this directly under my bunk room last night was less than appreciated. Trying to sleep with the overwhelming smell of Kerosene was difficult, so I had to endure yet another night of fitfull sleep. There was little point in complaining – it was just part of the experience. Today was the first of the big trekking days, with a 4 hour trek to Namche Bazaar ahead of us, most of which was up very steep slopes. We criss-crossed over several suspension bridges which traversed the Dudh Koshi River. I should at this point give 3 ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Himalayas November 21st 2012

Following a heart lunch we embarked on a hike up the hill behind Monjo for some views and “acclimitisation”. Although I had stripped down my day pack to its bear essentials, it didn’t seem much lighter than earlier. The climb through the pine forest was steep and I could feel my calm muscles stretching with every step. For our efforts we were rewarded with magnificent views of Thamserku (6618m).... read more

Asia » Nepal » Himalayas November 21st 2012

Despite being the first up this morning I am the last to be ready to leave for the start of todays trek, and keep my companions waiting for a minute or two. That is twice now that has happened and I promise myself to get better organised in the morning so it doesn’t happen again. I suspect having a room to myself means I have the luxury of spreading out all my stuff, which then necessitates putting it all back together in my various bags the next morning. The walk from Phakding to Monjo continued much as it had yesterday, through pine forests, dusty trails and with glimpses of distant snow capped peaks. This time, however, the gradient was definitely more uphill. On the journey we passed several impressive waterfalls, lots of donkeys that always kicked ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Himalayas November 21st 2012

It was not long before we attracted the attention of a small group of children, probably no older than 7, playing nearby. Their game of choice was throwing small apples at one another. The game soon spilled over to our group and we returned fire on our young foe. Their leader clearly had superior strategic skills than us, as he directed his band of warriors onto higher ground. This advantage plus their superior ballistic skills proved to much for us, so we beat a hasty retreat and continued on the trail to Monjo.... read more

Asia » Nepal » Himalayas November 21st 2012

I had run out of water at the top of this climb, and I suspect I was somewhat dehydrated given the headaches I was still having, which couldn’t have been altitude sickness as I was not high enough. I made a mental note that I needed to take more water each day on my treks. It was time to head back down through the forest and to our lodge. Given the steep descent I used my walking poles for the first time so far on this trek. They descent was manageable but the dusty trail gave me a slight cough, something our guide leader had forewarned us about and recommend we get some kind of face mask to avoid this being a persistent cough. I make a mental note to get one in Namche when we ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Himalayas November 21st 2012

Just before Monjo we stopped by the TIMS checkpoint. All trekkers to the region are required to get a TIMS card, for a fee, and the government uses this revenue to maintain the national parks. One of our guides sorted all the paperwork out with the local army official at the checkpoint. Whilst waiting, a little Nepalese boy probably a little younger than my 4 year old son, was rolling around in the grass enjoying the attention of our group. Once the paperwork was checked, we officially entered Sagarmartha National Park and a little way up the trail we entered Monjo and out tea house for the night. After a reasonable 3 hours of walking I was feeling pretty good about the days ahead.... read more

Asia » Nepal » Himalayas November 21st 2012

My thoughts were broken by the gentle swaying of the bridge as three young porters with their empty wicker baskets began to traverse the bridge, and I guessed on their way to Lukla to restock with supplies for the journey back to some destination upstream. I wondered if they would pass me in the days to come, and concluded if they did I probably wouldn’t recognise them, nor them me. I greet them with a cheery “Namesty” as they pass and each in turn response with the same hearty greeting and beaming smiles that light up their dark faces. As the sun climbed higher in the sky, it lighted up the top of the peak Kongde Ri like a lighthouse beacon. More Nepalese people crossed over the bridge heading to wherever they needed to go to ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Himalayas November 21st 2012

The bedroom door opened with a loud creak, which despite my best efforts to be as quiet as I could, I expect I woke my fellow trekkers in the rooms next door with the paper thin walls. It was just before 6am, and stepping outside the lodge the morning air was cold, dry and crisp, and in the valley of the mountains there was a blanket of greyness covering the lodge and surrounding farms and buildings. One of the ladies who worked in the lodge was outside washing her long black hair. I greeted her “Namestay” and she smiled but did not respond. The low roar of the Dudh Kosi river which we have follwed from Lukla caught my attention, and I headed in its direction and towards the steel suspension bridge we had crossed the ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Himalayas November 20th 2012

Preparations for bed are no quick and easy thing anymore – they require pre-planning and some effort. Whilst day time temperatures are a nice 20c, nightime temps drop below freezing. The nightime temperatures will only get lower as we sleep at higher altitudes, with a highest nights sleep at Gorak Shep expected to be -8c or lower in the room. All water to drink from is provided by our porters and guides from boiled water. At dinner time I hand over my camelback water bag (now empty) and my two 500ml drinking bottles (also empty) to the porters, and they return them some 30 minutes later. I take these to my room, lay out my sleeping bag and insert the sleeping liner. The now very warm camelback and drinking bottles are placed in my sleeping bag ... read more




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