J: I flew into Kathmandu from Bangkok and I spent the first day looking for a jacket, gloves, thermals, socks, hat, scarf, boots, sleeping bag - basically an entire wardrobe more suited to Nepal in January rather than the beaches of South East Asia. After several fruitless hours I came to the conclusion that renting mountain gear in Kathmandu is unheard of, so I found the cheapest equipment available and met up with my group for the next two weeks - Rob, a British-Canadian DJ booking agent living in LA; Pankaj, an Indian-born Australian IT consultant and Siobhan, an Australian lawyer who quit her job to travel. The following morning we took the small plane from Kathmandu to Lukla - famous for being the world's most dangerous airport. As we approached through buffeting turbulence I could
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