Blogs from Sulawesi, Indonesia, Asia - page 9

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Asia » Indonesia » Sulawesi » Tana Toraja March 2nd 2016

Sulawesi is one of the four Greater Sunda Islands, and the world's eleventh largest island, it is situated between Borneo and the Maluku Islandsand has a population of roughly 20 million people. I had not intended discussing the flights to Makassar but the Melbourne Bali leg was a shocker, not because it was uncomfortable or the food or service were bad, but because our co-travelers were the dregs of bogan society. After five hours of screaming ferals and five more drinking Bintang in the sultry Bali heat our final short flight to Makassar was stress free if incredibly full. We arrived on a dark rainy evening and I was feeling exhausted and after the arg... read more
Fort Rotterdam
Dutch Church
Monument to Christianity

Asia » Indonesia » Sulawesi » Tana Toraja January 16th 2016

But before you do look at the pretty pictures of Moramo Waterfall, because it was a hell of a trek to get there. Located in Southeast Sulawesi, not far from Kendari it is not easy to reach without your own transport. Like everything else in this part of Sulawesi information is thin on the ground. Eventually, after asking around, I ended up on a shared Kijang which dropped me off at a village with the simple instruction of getting an ojek (motorcycle taxi) the rest of the way. So I stood for a while in the shade of a big tree waiting for this mystical ojek to pop-up. And so it did. A kindly old man asked me where I wanted to go and half an hour later I had arrived at my waterfall. The waterfall ... read more
Moramo Waterfall
Moramo Waterfall
Moramo Waterfall

Asia » Indonesia » Sulawesi » Togean Islands January 15th 2016

Na 5 dagen zonder internet en bijna helemaal zonder telefoonverbinding, is het nu weer tijd voor een korte update. Momenteel zit ik in een veel te warm internetcafe in Gorontalo, een kustplaats in Noord-Sulawesi. Hiervandaan vertrekt de boot naar de Togean eilanden, waar we nu net van teruggekomen zijn. Mijn vorige verslag schreef ik terwijl we net op Pulau Bunaken zaten, de dag voordat onze duikcursus zou beginnen. Samen met Martijn, een college van Tessa die vanaf Jakarta t/m Bunaken met ons meereisde, mochten we op 3 januari voor het eerst ‘echt’ duiken. Normaal begin je in een zwembad, maar dat hebben ze op Bunaken niet, dus onze eerste duik vond plaats in een lagune, met weinig stroming. Vooral Tessa zag hier een beetje tegenop, omdat ze nogal verkouden was. Als je duikt, moeten je oren ... read more
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Asia » Indonesia » Sulawesi » Wakatobi National Park January 7th 2016

But we like Wakatobi. More on that later. I last left you standing under a starry sky in Kolaka. Magical things happen under starry skies. Like Rastafarian secret agents popping-up to help you find a Kijang to Kendari. Now our dreadlocked friend actually appeared long before the stars did, but having him emerge under the faint lights of faraway suns makes for a more dramatic entry of this interesting character. Having him show up at the docks of Watampone and escorting us on the ferry, though true, is far less spectacular. The truth wins in this instance. This self-proclaimed Indonesian equivalent of a C.I.A. agent was hanging around the ferry in Watampone and upon seeing us, decided that he would take us under his wings. And in the process whisper his secret identity to us, ‘I ... read more
Kendari
Bau-Bau
Bau-Bau

Asia » Indonesia » Sulawesi » Bunaken National Park January 1st 2016

Sinds mijn laatste verslag zijn zowel de kerstdagen als oud en nieuw alweer voorbij! Allemaal nog een gelukkig nieuwjaar. De armoede aan reisverslagen komt mede door de afwezigheid van computers/goed internet, maar ook omdat we eigenlijk elke dag vrij veel doen. Zoals ik in het vorige verslag al zei, wilden we onze laatste dag in Yogya vullen met een tripje naar het Djen plateau. Helaas was het weer niet goed: de kans op bewolking was te groot, wat uiteraard niet echt handig is als je een uitkijkpunt bezoekt. Daarom besloten we om iets anders te gaan doen: cavetuben in Goa Pindul. Het klinkt superspannend, maar houdt eigenlijk gewoon in dat je in een opblaasband in een modderig stroompje door een grot wordt voortgetrokken. De grot was wel erg mooi om te zien, en ook de rit ... read more
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Asia » Indonesia » Sulawesi » Kolaka December 28th 2015

Sunshine is the name of a guesthouse in Tanjung Bira, also known as Pantai Bira, a small village on the southern-most point of Sulawesi. It is also the name of a little girl, the daughter of the owner of Sunshine Guesthouse. You could say the guesthouse is named after her. Or maybe it is simply an appropriate name for a very sunny point of Sulawesi. There was a lot of sunshine in Bira. But before I got there I had to contend with the rain of Makassar. Makassar is big. It is spread out. It is chaotic. And when I was there it was very, very, wet. Something to do with the rainy season. It has a sea-side promenade which they call a beach, even though there is nary a beach to be seen. It is ... read more
Makassar
Makassar
Makassar

Asia » Indonesia » Sulawesi » Tana Toraja May 27th 2015

!! Beware some photos are of a sensitive nature !! 6am. Fresh off the overnight bus, barely checked into our guesthouse and we're already drinking black coffee on the balcony at our accommodation with Jacob (pronounced Yacob). Jacob is a local guide who had somehow latched himself on to us almost as soon as we'd got off our bus in a morning haze. Before long we were deep in conversation fascinated by the funeral ceremonies and the amazing homes of the Torajans - the Tongkonans. Some very morbid stuff happens here but I guess thats what intrigued us. As we spoke, not more than 50yards across the way, a funeral was already in full swing. It was day 1 of the ceremony (food and gifts), luckily for us the slaughter was happening on day 2 - ... read more
Traditional Tarajan house - Tongkonan
Mourners attending the funeral
Tombs in carved into the rock

Asia » Indonesia » Sulawesi » Palu April 17th 2015

After leaving the Togeans, I took the 4h return ferry back to Ampana, then after a 2.5h or so wait, managed to get on a connecting minivan for the 5h ride to Poso, where I stayed overnight, and had internet access again for the first time in four days (woohoo!). Then the next day, it was another long 6h ride to Palu, the capital of Central Sulawesi and my final stop on this trip, from where I would take the connecting flight to Jakarta before returning home. There's not much to say about Palu. Notwithstanding its dark, relatively recent history of violence, it seems to be a rather soul-less and dusty, dusty town, and it figures cos LP says it's apparently one of the driest places in all of Indonesia, due to it's location within some ... read more
Last views of the Sulawesi countryside
My *Sweet* Ride from Ampana to Poso
Checkmate!

Asia » Indonesia » Sulawesi » Togean Islands April 15th 2015

Moving on from Tentena, I continued my way north towards what I presumed would be one of the highlights of my trip -- the Togean Islands. But first there would be the small matter of a 6h drive to Ampana for an overnight stop, before another 4h boat trip to Wakai, the unofficial capital of the Togeans. From there, it was a fairly quick speedboat transfer to Pulau Kadidiri, my intended destination and where I would hunker down for a few days. Quite a lot has been said about the Togeans, the location's relative remoteness, serenity, and of course, natural beauty. With its relatively untouched corals and clear, still waters, the islands are of course a boon to diving enthusiasts, several of whom I met at the resort where I stayed. Not being much of a ... read more
Pulau Kadidiri
Tentena-Ampana
Tentena-Ampana

Asia » Indonesia » Sulawesi » Tana Toraja April 10th 2015

It's done! The leg of the journey that I had some apprehension over - Rantepao to Tentena. It turned out to be a rather long 12h plus as expected, but mercifully the bus was actually pretty comfortable, and save for a few segments, the roads were in decent condition. And none of the passengers smoked on board! (Ok one guy did bring his lit cigarette in after a bathroom break, but he stubbed it out soon after). Hopefully the worst of my intra-Sulawesi bus journeys are now over, though there will still be a few more several-hour rides to come... And so from the Torajan highlands, bypassing vast swathes of picturesque vegetation, I'd arrived in Central Sulawesi, in the small town of Tentena which sits on the edge of Indonesia's third largest lake Danau Poso. Coming ... read more
Danau Poso
Rantepao-Tentena
Rantepao-Tentena




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