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Asia » Indonesia » North Maluku » Ternate April 20th 2019

Ranajky oproti vcerajsku obrovske. Kura, ryba, ryza, sladkosti, melonovy dzus. Spusta sa mega dazd, nastastie konci po pol hodinke. Domaca sa mi ponukla, ze ma odvezie do dive centra ale to som odmietol. Ako som vysiel z ubytka este slaby dazd ale ten prestal po 5.min. Pochodujem si cez ulicky, jedna je cisto policajna, same transportery, vodne delo, busy, motorky a kopa policajtov. To vyzeralo ako male kasarne ale bola to policia. Na takyto maly ostrov fakt vela policajtov ale to asi kvoli nepokojom v minulosti medzi krestanmi a moslimami. Do dive centra prichod 8.45. Opat pomale chystanie. Nasadam do auta a ideme vyzdvihnut ambon par do komplexu univerzity kde je prepychove ubytko villa marasai (domaca vravela, ze izby od 1mil) Cestou sme robili par zastavok, mi to pripadalo ako keby sofer vyberal vypalne. Co potesilo ... read more

Asia » Indonesia » North Maluku April 19th 2019

Fra sla dnes o 6.30 s guidom na sopku gamalama. Tam ja planujem ist asi v utorok, to uz bude hadam noha ok. Jo a samozrejme bez sprievodcu, i ked chlapik zo vcera co som s nim stravil hodinu na ulici vravel, ze by so mnou siel iba po stred, na lavu by sa neodvazil. V minulosti sa tam udajne prepadol neaky turista a uz ho nikdy nenasli. Ja mam stiahnutu trasu z wikiloc staru pol roka, tak hadam to bude ok. Na ranajky caj a zapecny sladky chleba s cokoladov. To nahadzane do seba a smer dive centrum. Cestou vyberam este neaky kes, rupia dobre posilnuje resp euro oslabuje co ma vobec netesi Vcera som skusal zamenit prachy v zmenarni ale dali uplne ubohy kurz. Do dive centra prichadzam presne 8.30 Este nikde nikto. Nakonec ... read more

Asia » Indonesia » North Maluku » Sula Islands December 7th 2016

The Sula Islands are about half-way between Ternate and Ambon, and I have been stuck on them for a week. A delightful week, but a week nonetheless. How did I end up here? Well, it all seemed rather straight forward when, after leaving Morotai and sitting in my hotel room in Tobelo on Halmahera, I realised it was time to start making my way down to Ambon… If I wanted to actually be there in time for my flight out. Make my way down to Ambon in a leisurely pace that is, with a week or so to spare on Ambon itself. I would be taking boats. There are direct boats from Ternate to Ambon, but I didn’t want to spend two and a half days on a boat. So I looked at a map. I ... read more
Tobelo
Jailolo
Jailolo

Asia » Indonesia » North Maluku » Morotai November 27th 2016

Money, I seem to talk about it a lot in my blogs, or rather the lack of it. I realise this, and I wonder whether my readers think that money is all I ever think about. It is, alas, the bane of the budget traveller, the eternal enemy on the road. It mocks you from that resort on the perfect white sandy beach surrounded by turquoise waters which you know you can never afford. It teases you with activities that are actually beyond your meagre resources, but which you really, really want to do. It lures you in by taking you to far-away places and then presenting you with the bill, knowing full well that when you have come all that way you are unlikely to forsake whatever made you come there in the first place, ... read more
Lembeh
Lembeh
Lembeh

Asia » Indonesia » North Maluku » Ternate August 24th 2015

Po loňskym roce, ve kterým se cestování pro mě smrsklo jenom na prohlídku pařížskýho letiště, to už letos cestu chtělo. S Martinem, kolegou mým drahým, jsme tedy na Palmovce v nonstopu jednoho sobotního rána odsouhlasili Indonésii. Od Air France byly letenky do Jakarty, sice z Lipska, ovšem kdo by si tím kazil výlet, ale v Jakartě se nám rozhodně zůstávat nechtělo, neboť výlet byl plánován jako třítýdenní. Ani jeden z nás není příznivce turistů a všeho s tím spojeného a tak řešíme, kam se v Indonésii podívat, abychom hodně viděli, potkali minimum turistů a moc to nestálo. Přemýšlíme nad Borneem, Sumatrou, ale nejsme si jistý, zda je to na tři týdny úplně OK. Papua nám bohužel nevychází časově, tedy nechceme-li tam letět. Při pohledu na cenu přeletu fakt nechceme. Trajekt je jednou za 10 dní a ... read more
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Asia » Indonesia » North Maluku April 6th 2015

In the months since my trip aboard the Tambora, I have seen many articles written by trip organizer Simon Pridemore and realized there was a lot more to Simon than being a very nice guy and one of the scuba worlds most respected Professionals, Simon is also a passionate environmentalist and writes for several sustainability publications. I was reading a piece he wrote in Gaia magazine about tourism to remoter areas and if it can ever be sustainable. Instantly I messaged Simon with a heap of questions and considerations that have long played in my head - how much am I part of the problem?. Can this delicate dance of truly ecological sustainable tourism ever work? This trip was something very special in that we explored areas not often visited if yet visited at all and ... read more
Papuan Sunset
The house of the man we scared
2014-09-28 09.09.39

Asia » Indonesia » North Maluku March 6th 2015

Im not an early riser. On the 28th of September, I watched the sun rise over Hamlahera barely able to stop smiling at what I new was about to come. As a geomorphologist living in Australia where we have a grand total of zero volcanoes, to wake up and watch Dukono Volcano puffing out billows of smoke every few minutes added to my anticipation. Located on the eastern tip of Hamlahera, Dukono has been erupting to some degree since 1933, but decided to get angrier in 2014 where strombolian eruptions saw shooting out lava bombs that litter the craters flanks, spread an ash cloud 2.5km high and created that awesome phenomenon Volcanic lightening. Our trip onto Hamlahera mainland later in the week had us dusted with fine volcanic ash but again amazed at the resilience and ... read more
A magic world below those three rocks
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Asia » Indonesia » North Maluku October 28th 2014

Liveaboard diving....nothing beats it. But for it to work, you need the right ingredients. Good People, Good Divers, Good Boat and Good Dive sites. Leaving Villa Marasai heading out to our boat - the Tambora - I knew I had met 5 good people so far - even if Linda did remind me for the 23,046th time she hates smoking as I got Uwe the boats owner to ask the driver to stop so I could stop at a warung and stock up on cigarettes for the trip, and I knew there were another 7 people arriving via Manado who sounded like Good people too. Simon and Tim have been organising these trips for years and knew all the other divers, something that had given me reservations at the beginning of the trip. Id be the ... read more
Tambora waiting for us to board
A maluka sunset through the rigging
My smoking buddy, Marna

Asia » Indonesia » North Maluku » Tidore October 21st 2014

I know why the Portugese lost the spice trade to the Dutch. Because they built their forts entirely in the wrong spot and had to climb 161 stairs then a ladder to get to the bloody top so they were too exhausted to put any real effort into fighting. Ok granted they only had a very steep volcano to work with, unlike on Ternate where they grabbed one of the few bits of flat land, and strategically a good spot to see your enemy approaching from, but what are you going to do from up there? By the time you have put on your pants and climbed down the ladder, run down the stairs and the mile to the coast your spices have been stolen. Assuming they were caught with their pants down that is...all of ... read more
Goat, Grave, Breadfruit
Traditionally constructed house of palm trees
View from the fort

Asia » Indonesia » North Maluku » Ternate October 17th 2014

Continuing our tour around Ternate, with Linda who had joined us after a late flight and a marathon trek from Kansas, we were leaving Fort Oranje when Sofie tripped over a metal stake sticking out of the fortress wall taking a horrible heavy fall. A fall that would have put most of us in hospital saw us make a quick stop for ice and bandaids at the Apoteki before Sofie insisted on continuing on. As a diver about set out on an exploratory trip this could have been catastrophic, but Sofie is made of tough stuff. In a fairly large but unassuming house lived Alfred Russel Wallace, the father of bio geography. Wallace's contributions to Geography and Biology equal that of Darwin. Wallace developed the theory of evolution through natural selection and identified the line separating ... read more
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Wallaces chairs
Cloves drying in the sun roadside




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