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Published: March 5th 2015
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Im not an early riser. On the 28th of September, I watched the sun rise over Hamlahera barely able to stop smiling at what I new was about to come.
As a geomorphologist living in Australia where we have a grand total of zero volcanoes, to wake up and watch Dukono Volcano puffing out billows of smoke every few minutes added to my anticipation. Located on the eastern tip of Hamlahera, Dukono has been erupting to some degree since 1933, but decided to get angrier in 2014 where strombolian eruptions saw shooting out lava bombs that litter the craters flanks, spread an ash cloud 2.5km high and created that awesome phenomenon Volcanic lightening. Our trip onto Hamlahera mainland later in the week had us dusted with fine volcanic ash but again amazed at the resilience and acceptance of people who live on the slopes of Volcanoes.
The reason Indonesia is part of the ''ring of fire'' is that it sits over a hot spot or weaker area of crust if you will moving over hot lava. Its also on a major convergence zone of massive tectonic plates pressing from all directions resulting in the number of volcanoes and quakes
in the area. The crust where its particularly thin - the hot spots - as it moves over the magma zone gives rise to volcanoes - both on land and below the sea.
Uwe who owns the Tambora had a local guide and a lot of local knowledge so we were on the dive site above the volcanic vents by 8am.
As we approached I saw the bubbles on the surface and smiled - diving a volcano has long been a dream of mine.
Backwards rolling under the surface I was struck by firstly the topography and then the temperature - which was nowhere near where one would it expect it to be. As we descended it began to warm up quickly - going from 28c to 30c.
Due to the mineral rich deposits rising out of the volcanic vents the water was somehow ''thicker'' as we got deeper.
Immediately around the crater life was full of coral and fish and unfortunately crown of thorns starfish were quite abundant here. I was happy to see a trochus shell feeding on one.
Down in the crater I descended to the bottom and began exploring the
thick shimmering hot water coming out of the many vents surrounded by rock, coral down here was minimal below the craters edge. Many of the vents were small but one was big enough for me to fit inside. In the cave with a school of sweetlips swimming around in the warm rich waters i could see many more vents and tunnels that beckoned my curiosity.
Other than the fact I know enough about volcanoes to not be suprised to find noxious gases I could not go any further as it would have been a huge hassle for everyone else to have to retrieve my remains and hard to explain to my children that I died because I got stuck inside a volcano 30m under the sea. Id have hated to wreck everyone else s trip.
Coming out of the vent and up out of the crater the coral and masses of fish provided such a contrast to inside the vent. Linda captured a beautiful big sea snake on film as I was coming over the lip of the crater. The dive site was heaven, I could dive there every day and be a happy girl.
After lunch
we were given an option of doing the volcano again or doing a nearby wall dive. Of course I opted for the volcano again and Tim asked if interested in doing a bit of modelling on the second dive so he could get some footage of the volcano and the vent. He didn't have to ask twice. This dive I descended directly down into the bottom of the crater near the vent and visited the sweetlips swarming around in there. I think my fascination and enjoyment of this amazing opportunity to do such a rare dive not once but twice is evident in the footage and stills Tim and Linda took.
All of my loves at once, diving among wilder waters, volcanoes above and below the ocean and a sunrise worth getting up for. I spent the rest of the 60 minute dive time floating around in the shallows looking at nudibranch and fish and diversity then surfaced near the three rocks that mark this site.
I floated on my back selfishly for a few moments soaking up the Moluccan sun in the bath tub warm gentle waters wishing I could stay here in this moment for ever.
I have been blessed to not only have that moment in my mind where I can close my eyes and almost feel the warm gentle water but also to have it captured on film by some amazing photographers.
Sometimes......life gives you golden moments. Don't pass them by.
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RENanDREW
Ren & Andrew
Golden moments...
Cindy I wholeheartedly agree about grasping those special moments, but I also think there's a skill in learning to make them happen for ourselves. And p.s. so many 'ring of fire' jokes, but I won't go there :)