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Asia » India » Karnataka » Mysore October 8th 2001

2001………..6wks-2nd CYCLING TRIP-2,200kms IN SOUTHERN INDIA 30.9.01 Mysore Mysore is famous for its silk, sandalwood, incense and essential oils. I'm currently having a beer and then a meal at the ParkLane Hotel no less. It's next to where I'm staying here in Mysore. It's a real treat. It's quite quirky. But maybe this has something to do with having ordered another beer. I've only had alcohol at Kovalam and here and meat on 3 occasions, maybe. It's a great little restaurant that is set outside under a huge pergola of dense vine. There are boys in green tops hovering in the distance to serve you should you indicate you want something by pulling a light switch above your table. It lights up your own personalized red light bulb. It's such a wonderful combination of India and ... read more
Statue of Buhubali at Shravanbolgola
Mysore Palace
Lalitha Palace, Mysore

Asia » India » Kerala September 27th 2001

2001………..6wks-2nd CYCLING TRIP-2,200kms IN SOUTHERN INDIA 15.9.01 Kovalem (116Km 445Km total by bike) I feel like I've been to hell and back. The ride yesterday got gradually worse with the amount of traffic, fumes and heat. I had to wash my clothes twice. I hate to think what I had to breathe in. I resorted to the mask in the end. I over shot the turnoff and so added an extra 15-20kms. I hope its not going to be like this in all of Kerala. At least with the bike riding, people in buses, trucks, cars and pedestrians cheer me on as I go- just saying hello, smiling. Because it’s off-season, even though the weather is great, I was able to get a room for 3 days for about $10/day. I have a double room with ... read more
Puppets in Cochin Street Market
Feet First
Anjuna Market, Goa

Asia » India » Tamil Nadu » Madurai September 13th 2001

2001………..6wks-2nd CYCLING TRIP-2,200kms IN SOUTHERN INDIA 10.9.01 Kodaikanal (65km) The ride from Palani to Kodai was a long and exhausting ride that took me 10 hrs with very little rest. Of the 65km, 50km was uphill from 692m to over 2050m. It was a wonderful ride through tropical forest with spectacular views as I gained altitude. The side of the road was a splash of colour with yellows and oranges of lantana, blue minx, morning glory, orange buddleia, purple bougainvillea, and red flame trees. The Greenlands Youth Hostel where I am staying is overwhelmingly memorable. For $11.50, I have a double room with own bathroom and veranda, overlooking what must be one of the world's best views as it looks across other mountains below & down to the Palani Plain. Mist comes and goes and even ... read more
House decoration, Kerala
A charming face in Dindigal
Kanyakumari

Asia » India » Tamil Nadu » Chennai September 7th 2001

2001………..6wks-2nd CYCLING TRIP-2,200kms IN SOUTHERN INDIA Today’s The Day! Finally after many months of thinking and talking about what must be one of the most researched and planned trips to the mysterious Indian Subcontintinent it’s actually going to happen. I’ve communicated into the ether of cyberspace to people in far off lands and got the lowdown on what to see, what not to see, what smells and tastes to see or more so to avoid, the charms of the people or the scams to be aware of. I begin my adventure by arriving in Bangalore, one of the smaller cities of India- a mere 5.2 million people. Bombay, which no longer exists as it is called Mumbai, is 15 million. I haven’t organized anywhere to stay on my arrival at 1.15am. With pushbike boxed and under ... read more
Colourful Dindigal
Dindigal Doorway
Beedies Anyone?

Asia » India » Gujarat June 15th 2001

Domkhedi, India, June 2001 (I think) As the song goes, what a long strange trip it’s been. I’m in Domkhedi, I’m groggy from another night sleeping (if you can call it that) on the rocky ground. Domkhedi is a tiny little village a very remote area of Gujarat in the Narmada River Valley. This is one of more than 100 villages that will be destroyed if the government of India goes ahead with building a series of big dams along the Narmada River, and it has become the local headquarters of the Narmada Bachao Andolan (movement to save the Narmada). The NBA has been waging a 15 year struggle to stop the dams and to promote an alternative model of development that uses more appropriate technology and allows people of the valley to retain their ... read more
Temple threatened by dams
Village leader
Teacher and daughter

Asia » India » National Capital Territory » New Delhi May 16th 2001

There are just not as many nice things to say about Delhi - I knew I'd hate it. The best part was leaving! On our way to the airport, poor Mike was suffering badly from a hash hangover, brought on by mushing the last of our stash into cookies. (We had to get rid of that stuff somehow.) He was really dragging but I told him that if it meant me hauling him + both our packs singlehandedly to the airport, we were going to make it to our plane outta here! I was a ball of fire! I organized everything - our transport to the city center, a rickshaw to the airport and some quick food. The only place nearby was an English fast-food chain, Wimpy's. We ordered burgers (ground lamb meat and sliced cabbage, ... read more
 Typical transportation

Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Mcleod Ganj April 23rd 2001

McLeod Gang, described by one American here as "beginner's India", is THE most Tibetan-food-eating, tourist-hotel-staying, happy-hour-drinking place. Not to mention meditation-class-taking and Dalai Lama-spotting. (We saw him in his Land Rover, on his way to speak!) It's absolutely comfy here. The hills around us are big and quiet. Looking down on Dharmsala and the gangetic plain makes me believe I can see all the way to Kanniyakumari and reminds me how high up we are. I finally discovered an equivalent to Indians waking us too early - coming back to the guesthouse late, requiring them to open the locked gate for us. But isn't it called "guest" house, not "curfew" house? And I don't think it helped our cause when I returned alone late one night after a few big beers. I was approached by an ... read more
Prayer wall, McLeod Gang
View from our hotel room, Chamba
Drinking with Craig, Chamba

Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh April 14th 2001

We loved the food and friendly culture in Kathmandu. We hated the build-up in Pokhara. Now, it's time to get to North India. I'll give the country a clean slate, the north's probably totally different from the south. As soon as we crossed the border, the air changed. Literally. It was full of the aromas of spices that are uniquely Indian. As enjoyable as that could have been, I was suddenly reminded of all the things I forgot I hated. And how much more offensive the people are to my American senses. On our first bus ride, I was caught in a good mood by some guy whom I maintained small talk with until he asked, "You enjoy sex in India?" with the same over-excited interest that he asked, "How many days you stay here?" or, ... read more
Tea vendor, Shimla
Outside Polga, Parvati Valley, Himachal Pradesh

Asia » India » Sikkim » Gangtok February 20th 2001

9-day Himalayan trek: $180. 8 candy bars and 2 bags of trail snacks: Rs 240. Hearing the sound of my voice fill a glacial valley while I belt out The Star Spangled Banner: priceless. All the bitter drama of a long and mentally exhausting trip over, our last hike ended with the trailhead leading us directly down the hill in the "balmy" afternoon to....... Ralph! Oh, my god, when do we NOT see this guy? But it's poignantly humorous that we continue to have him imposed on us since Goa! We had a good chance to recount some of our best trek stories, though. Like when the cook got tempermental and quit after Thansing and when the remaining porters (dressed in Howard's extra clothes because they were sadly unprepared) knocked off pieces of the roof at ... read more
Rumtek monastery

Asia » India » Sikkim February 16th 2001

Things I miss: wearing jeans scotch my laptop computer bras in my size having the same surroundings for more than one week working out It's hard to believe I paid money to be this cold but it makes for a lot of opportunities to remember that I have a sense of humor. Today after a short but steep hike, as the quick and creepy mist blew the snow over us, we arrived at the hut. The huts are the only structures in sight and after a full day of hiking, it's a sweet sight when the little shabby roof pokes out of the mist in the distance. They're never built very well, only meant to be half-assed shelter at best. Here, Mike and I had to warm ourselves by dancing hard and singing 80's disco songs ... read more
Postcard from Gangtok, Sikkim




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