Blogs from India, Asia - page 2119

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Asia » India » West Bengal February 2nd 2001

India survival guide: 1. pack earplugs and plenty of patience 2. don't look anyone in the eyes 3. get used to being the center of attention 4. revealing your knees (women) is unacceptable but hacking/spitting, picking your nose and yelling outside a hotel room at dawn is okay. We're really outsiders here but like the time we confronted the guy on the bus to Colva who hit his girlfriend, I became personally interested. I needed to help someone look at what it is they're doing and understand why it pisses me off. We're on the train to Darjeeling, near Calcutta. There's a family of five near us, in two seats of course. While I was reading, I picked up some disharmony. I looked up and Mike said, "He just hit his wife." She's being absolutely silent. ... read more

Asia » India » Orissa » Puri January 27th 2001

Leslie's list of "Why's" Why isn't there a better way to process the waste created by over one billion people (and cows)? For a country that sees SO MANY Western tourists, why isn't there more of an interest in our sense of 1. cleanliness 2. sales techniques 3. noise levels 4. personal space? Why do so many Indians make me so annoyed with them? Why is this man giving me walking directions to the station when I'm asking if I can call? Why doesn't anybody EVER have change? I had a really interesting opportunity before dawn on the 24-hour train ride to Bhubaneswar. Turns out, I was sleeping under a woman who grew up here in Orissa but has lived in Albany, NY for the last 20 years. Well, of course I picked her brain about ... read more

Asia » India » Tamil Nadu » Mamallapuram January 24th 2001

Here is a compilation of some of The Sounds of India: The loudest horns used as frequently as possible. That truly unappetizing sound made by collecting phlegm in the back of the mouth, usually made just before spitting. HHHHHHckhttt! The beating of laundry on a rock, usually near our bedroom window and always at about 6:30 am. Something - anything - on a loudspeaker full blast. Mamallapuram: world-famous for its shoreline temple. But what's not in the guidebook is the eyesore of a chain-link fence ,keeping out the non-Indians who've decided to pass on the $10 entry fee (!!!) Indians pay 10 rupees (about 25 cents). I couldn't possibly satisfactorily describe how disgusting the trash and effluence was, literally FLOWING across the beach. Fortunately, we had already gotten lunch out of the way, where we happened ... read more
Arjuna's Penance, Mamallapuram
Rickshaw, Chennai (Madras)

Asia » India » Tamil Nadu » Chennai January 16th 2001

The only buses to Kochi are overnighters, and they're actually somewhat comfortable. Then we took the next bus to Alleppey where the hotels just weren't satisfactory. Imagine that! So instead of staying, we collapsed onto a backwater ferry boat and did nothing but watch the scenery pass for 8 wonderful hours. Beautiful! Peaceful! But what to do next? We gritted our teeth and went to see what the very southern tip of the subcontinent, Kanniyakumari, had to offer. Answer: not a lot for Westerners. We knew that a place as spiritually important as this would be a big pilgrimage site, therefor luring thousands of Indian tourists and kitsch vendors. Imagine our double surprise to find that the holiday of Pongal was upon us! It did look like a good time if you were part of the ... read more
Temple in Madurai, Tamil Nadu
Sadhus
Skanda, God of War, Sri Meenakshi Temple, Madurai

Asia » India » Karnataka » Mysore January 11th 2001

The train was a pleasant overnighter into Bangalore where Dan the Canadian stayed to take advantage of the Kentucky Fried Chicken. We hopped on to the bus to Hassan, then another to Belur. Our first bus included a "touching" incident that didn't altogether surprise me but did force me to swing around and confront the asshole who put his hands on me. And it made Mike stand up and yell, "Touch her again and there'll be BIG TROUBLE! Go sit over there." What doesn't make sense is to try for a grope at the beginning of a 4-hour bus ride, instead of on the way out the door. Jerk. Hassan was too big, dirty and noisy so onto Belur it was... We found a little restaurant where all the tables were hidden in secretive little compartments ... read more
Picture of Sadhus
Sun Temple, Konark
Detail from Sun Temple, Konark

Asia » India » Karnataka » Hampi January 3rd 2001

Mike said once, "I love India! But the Indians drive me crazy." I see evidence now that it's a culture in which the sense of ethetics, etiquette and procedure is remarkably opposite to mine. The in-your-face sales pitches, the ubiquitous pick-up lines from men on the street, the crowding of the only other people in the whole room (bus, table), the blowing of noses on to the ground in public (men and women both) the seemingly reckless disregard for the lives of other people and animals, the probing personal questions from strangers - aargh! A guy named Doug in Arusha told me, "There's nothing you can say about India that the exact opposite won't also be true." I believe it. Finally getting our fill of Colva, we started on the next leg of our adventure. We ... read more
Hampi from above
Vittala Temple, Hampi

Asia » India » Goa » Colva December 20th 2000

Some first impressions of India: The men seem to be raised to be aggressive at times and also openly leacherous. Women always wear something flowing and conservative with sandals. Each looks like a princess to me. Beautiful, thick black hair, dark skin and those royal, colorful clothes! But men dress quite Western. Everyone always likes to be in a crowd. This is the only place I've ever seen people standing around at the beach, fully clothed in large groups. Whether in or out of the water! As a single white woman, I'm never alone for long before some guy invites himself to join me. Obviously, it doesn't matter if I care or not. There's so much time to relax and do nothing, it's now bordering on boring. Our tough daily routine consists of the following: sleeping ... read more
Postcard from Fabulous Colva Beach, Goa

Asia » India » Maharashtra » Mumbai December 14th 2000

I couldn't have imagined that we'd get our visas and make it to the airport as painlessly as we did. We were even early, after deciding against an expensive taxi and choosing the public bus instead. We had an overnight flight ( = no sleep) and we arrived in Mumbai at about 4am. We made the airport our sanctuary until daylight and then had to figure a new way downtown (the guidebook had old bus info.) It was evident on the bus that Indians love to rush, push and crowd each other but I was unprepared for the train station at rush hour. Bunches of men, hanging out the train doors by one hand as the train arrived, leapt off before it even stopped and then the stampede began! One crowd was shoving to get off, ... read more

Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Dharamsala November 30th 1999

That's it. The last gong has gonged and I returned to real life after 10 days of vipassana. Such sweet golden sound... (though probably even the honking of a truck would have sounded lovely had it symboled the end of meditation sessions). All in all it was a very interesting experience, though it definitely wasn't life changing (one important thing I learned is that an hour is alot of time and that two hours is even more). I tried to think how to describe the atmosphere in the course, what it is most similar to in the outside world, and I came to the conclusion that it most resembles a group of hattifatteners (for those of you who haven't read Moomin books - go read them!). Everyone walks around expressionless (though after a couple of days ... read more

Asia » India » Uttar Pradesh » Varanasi November 30th 1999

That's it, no one can say I haven't been to "real" India yet. Varanasi is Indian essence. Oh, I almost forgot - I'm back in India. It was quite strange to suddenly find myself in the States. At first I had quite a culture shock (I walked around supermarkets staring at everything in awe), but in some sense I found out it's less different than I thought (for instance this guy that sat next to me in a cafe asked me who my favorite guru is). I mainly walked around there and observed whatever happened around me, kind of like I do here. It seems that when you travel like that you find funny and strange and special things practically anywhere, even suburbia. And it turns out you can even find good old Indian logic right ... read more




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