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Asia » India » Maharashtra June 4th 2011

Another unsolicited installment in the “don’t-forget-about-me-entirely” email series: Mumbai, India, 1 June 2001 We landed in Mumbai (aka Bombay) 3 days ago. Mumbai is the new, non-colonial name for Bombay, quite possibly the wildest, most intense city on Earth. Extreme. Relentless. Just the taxi ride from the airport was an experience. I’d thought the mini-van drivers in Bali were wild, aggressive drivers – and they are, aggressively passing in the face of on-coming traffic, honking, cutting off motorscooters, etc. But they’re like little old ladies compared to Bombay cabbies. These guys have only the most general concept of a “lane,” and it’s considered standard to have 3 or 4 cabs flying along in a 2-lane road. In the states, I’ve often told horrifying tales that some car “just missed me by inches.” Here, a couple inches ... read more
Dam Protest
Bank Protest, Mumbai
Impending Flood

Middle East » Turkey July 7th 2001

Turkish Delight – 7 July, 2001 Well. I don’t know where you are as you read this; I hope it’s somewhere nice. Me, I’m sitting in a Turkish café, overlooking the Turquoise coast of the Mediterranean Sea. The sun is bright, the breeze is cool and the faux-cappuccino is close enough that I’m not complaining. Not far across the sparkling water are several islands, mostly “belonging to” Greece. The oddity that these islands so close to Turkey are in Greece (Cyprus, of course, remains divided since the 1974 coup and invasion) reminds me of how idiotically international boundaries are generally set. In the next few days I’m planning to visit one of the “ghost towns” left empty after the Turkish war of independence, when thousands of people were “traded” between Greece and Turkey in a League ... read more
woman.kas
Sultan's harem
me flying

Asia » India » Gujarat June 15th 2001

Domkhedi, India, June 2001 (I think) As the song goes, what a long strange trip it’s been. I’m in Domkhedi, I’m groggy from another night sleeping (if you can call it that) on the rocky ground. Domkhedi is a tiny little village a very remote area of Gujarat in the Narmada River Valley. This is one of more than 100 villages that will be destroyed if the government of India goes ahead with building a series of big dams along the Narmada River, and it has become the local headquarters of the Narmada Bachao Andolan (movement to save the Narmada). The NBA has been waging a 15 year struggle to stop the dams and to promote an alternative model of development that uses more appropriate technology and allows people of the valley to retain their ... read more
Temple threatened by dams
Village leader
Teacher and daughter

Asia » Thailand May 24th 2001

23 May 2001 Two days ago, I rode the “death train” over the Bridge Over the River Kwai. We were thrown together with 3 young men from Wales, taking a trip before heading off to university, and a Danish couple that had signed up for a tour of the floating market and rose garden and ended up with us at the death museum, crawling through a cave and riding elephants. Such is the way with these 2-day tours – you’re never really sure what it’ll be like. The hook for this tour was the bridge. Of course, the Alec Guinness movie that made the bridge famous is historical fiction, far more about British class sensibility than it was about Imperial Japan’s building of the WWII railway into Burma. In fact, building the bridge itself was a ... read more
train route
river
memorial

Asia » Thailand May 16th 2001

16 May, 2001 – Bankok, Thailand So, We're in Bankok. Since we were not able to find local activist/organizers to link up with for volunteer work, we're only staying a short time and so have been in the heart of the city downtown. Bankok is fascinating, fabulous and fierce. It's spiritually enlightened and humbly devout. It's also horribly unjust and economically exploitative. Nearly everywhere you look is an exquisite temple, filled with people from may walks of life (so it seems) making devotions and meditating. so much so that when we'd ride past some awesome-looking edifice and ask the "tuk-tuk" driver what it is, the response was often (essentially) "oh, just another temple". There are more than 400 in the city. Truly astounding. Then, a few blocks away, many people are living under bridges. The tuk-tuk ... read more
Golden Buddha
temples
Plowing Ceremony

Oceania April 1st 2001

17 May 2001 So friends, today is going to be a “true confessions” episode. Yes, it’s a little embarrassing, but your loyal correspondent, the activist formerly known as a fearless fighter for justice and seeker of truth has morphed into (gasp) … a TOURIST !! Some of the details are too gruesome to get through the BillGatesGlobalThoughtPolice ® , but here is some damning evidence in the case against me. First of all, you know the term “Tourist Trap”? Well, that’s no longer acceptable language. Since my metamorphosis, I have come to understand the emotional violence such accusatory language does to people that are just trying to see and do as many scenic vistas, photo opportunities and authentic craft shops as they can handle. Anyway, where to begin the sordid tale … Perhaps swimming with the ... read more
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