Blogs from Uttar Pradesh, India, Asia - page 160

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Asia » India » Uttar Pradesh » Lucknow January 1st 2006

Despite ye olde bowels still being far from healthy, I managed to down some bananas this morning, which will supposedly assist my recovery. I was also lucky that the hotel (for Rs 100 commission) purchased my onward train ticket for me, which saved me the rickshaw trips to/from the station, plus no doubt a ton of waiting time at Lucknow's notoriously busy reservations counter. With that potential headache resolved, I decided to head out for a spot of sight-seeing. If Westerners know anything about Lucknow, it's that it was the site of a mutiny in 1857, in which 3,000 British and British-sympathisers were put under siege in the Residency building by Indian soldiers - when they were finally relieved, only about 1,000 were still alive. Of course, the other view of this version of events is ... read more
Stunted trees at the entrance to the Residency
Building in the Residency complex
Through the arches

Asia » India » Uttar Pradesh » Agra January 1st 2006

So, starting to catch up with the blogs....lets see if we can remember what we did. Oh yep...New Years eve, and off to Agra. Prit had arranged for us to hire a car and driver to travel through Northern India. You pay by the rupee and the driver stays with you. As Prit's family is from India, he has many contacts, and so as we all climbed into our brand new, leather seated, air conditioned, bull bar'd Toyota SUV, we were all patting him on the back. However, whatever car you are in does not mean the journey is any less hairy. It's not that the Indians drive particularly fast, or that the roads are in any particularly bad shape (in fact they are pretty good considering), it's just there is sooo much going on. Car's ... read more
We were there....
Beautiful
Arty Shot

Asia » India » Uttar Pradesh » Lucknow December 31st 2005

Due to various delays, the train journey stretched by 2 hours to 13.5 hours, which was not welcome in my weakened state. I'd chosen the most luxurious hotel of my trip so far for my stay in Lucknow - the $70 per night Gemini Continental. Though it was in good condition and in some ways bore a resemblance to American motels, it was no better than the place I had stayed in in McLeod Ganj, which had cost less than half the price. Additionally, the restaurant and laundry were both significantly more expensive than anywhere I've stayed. Once more, I was given completely incorrect information about the location of Internet cafes and opticians. I eventually found an area that was crawling with opticians, but it seems as though the only cleaning solution available for gas permeables ... read more
A, er, thingy in Lucknow
Somebody's tomb, I think

Asia » India » Uttar Pradesh » Lucknow December 30th 2005

I discovered a couple of reasons why the room was so cheap. One is that the main road is by no means the quietest thoroughfare in the world, at any time of the night. The proximity of the railway station doesn't help matters either. And the hot water system is another one to add to the collection - you can't run the hot and cold water at the same time (the hot water slows to a drip if you do), so you have to half-fill your bucket with hot water, then moderate the temperature with the cold. Naturally it took a visit to the front desk to have this explained. I also found out, painfully, that my new contact lens cleaning solution doesn't work in quite the same way as the product I buy at home. ... read more

Asia » India » Uttar Pradesh » Agra December 27th 2005

Leaving Varanasi was a little bit more trouble than I would have thought. There was some confusion over my train ticket, and I spent several hours moving from car to car and class to class, before finally ending up with a bunk and a blanket around 1am. Luckily, the train was a little late, so I actually got some sleep! Even more lucky was that in the course of going back and forth and back and forth, I met the nicest family of five from France who were going to Agra too. The Fraval's are visiting India to see their daughter who is studying in Delhi. Off the train in the morning around 9, I managed to find them in the crowd of people getting off the train (a benifit of being a foreigner I guess!). ... read more
South gate of the Taj Mahal
Taj Mahal, framed by the South Gate
Taj Mahal

Asia » India » Uttar Pradesh » Varanasi December 25th 2005

Varanasi is a very ancient city, on the bank of the Ganges (Ganga) river. Indians consider it sacred, and come to bath, wash clothes, perform 'puja' (sort of like worship) and cremate their dead here. I came mostly just to see the Ganges river, though there are plenty of other touristy things to see and do. Varanasi can be a dangerous city though, and I only planned to stay the day. I arrived on the train from Calcutta at around 1030am, and with my friend Annie headed to the hotel that she was staying at. Thank goodness I had met her, as one man had even approached me on the train to try and get me to use him as a driver - he didn't leave me alone until we drove away (even after I told ... read more
Ganges and the Ghats
Ganges boat ride
Burning Ghat

Asia » India » Uttar Pradesh » Agra December 24th 2005

Fulfilling the Dream It is really difficult to describe the feeling when you stand in front of the Taj Mahal....maybe it is just me (although all the people I know that have seen it had it too) but it is so magnificent, majestic, beautiful and romantic.... no wonder it is one of the World Wonders....hard to believe it is a tomb.... I have seen it twice and I did it at two different times of a day....First one very early in the morning - it was maybe 6 am when rickshaw driver took us to the river bank and we could see a spectacle of mist falling down and unveiling the majestic building....amazing and even though it was not intentional to go there at that time (it was mostly due to the early arrival of the ... read more
Taj Mahal at sunrise
us and Taj
so small

Asia » India » Uttar Pradesh » Varanasi December 15th 2005

I read a clever quip somewhere that Indian food is the cuisine that you taste once but experience twice. We've been in the country 2 days and already got hit with the bug. I believe the only way to steel yourself from the perils of Indian dining would be to go the subway station at 50th street and lick the handrail from bottom to top. It's not stopping us from eating off the street, however. It's absolutely superb dining. I can only imagine it's like heroin-- you know somewhere down the line you'll end up crouched over shivering, but you'll bear it all for that brief moment of ecstasy-- (I can assure you that I'm no heroine fiend-- save for one Linda Carter). We just plan on using our Cipro as an after-dinner mint. So we ... read more
Bathing on the Ghats
The Holy Ganges
MONG--kay!!

Asia » India » Uttar Pradesh » Lucknow December 13th 2005

I attended a global peace symposium in Lucknow. The hosts were the venerable institution called CMS or Central Montessori School. Jagdish Gandhi started this institution nearly thirty years ago, with nothing more than a vision and prayer. Five years ago they got into the Guinness Book of World Records as the largest Montessori school in the world with over 30,000 students. There was a primary conference, where Chief Justices from many countries around the world participated. I met the hoary bearded Chief Justice of Afghanistan, a lovely woman from Timor Leste (probably the newest nation around), from Uzbekistan, Kazhakstan, Bosnia, Nigeria and so on. Absent were the Chief Justices of the US and UK, as well as France and Germany. The Chief Justices were treated each day at the opening to a recitation of demands for ... read more

Asia » India » Uttar Pradesh » Varanasi December 12th 2005

Leaving behind my cozy little routine in Pushkar (it had gotten to the point where I was so well-known around my haunts that the local waiter gave me a bracelet!), I returned to the mayhem of Delhi to join up with my next Intrepid tour, which would take me from Delhi all the way to Kathmandu. Delhi felt a little different this time, a little less threatening, but it was still a wild experience and one I don’t feel particularly tempted to repeat… It’s just such a “full-on” city (as the Aussies would say) - a constant assault of people, smells, cars and rickshaws, cows, beggars, vendors, garbage, and piles of shit, making it easy to miss the spots of beauty. We saw different things this time around, as it had been decided that it had ... read more
Slowly Down the Ganges




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