Today was devoted to haveli hunting, using a map that Rajesh had drawn up for me. The town isn't large, but there are some confusing little alleyways and I was at the northern extremity of the map before I found my first haveli. It was interesting that Rajesh's recommended havelis did not tally with what was in the Rough Guide. Given the quality of the ones I saw, I would suspect the Rough Guide didn't see the best ones. The paintings in/on the havelis are from a mixture of sources - some based on Indian legends, some based on current affairs at the time (e.g. pictures of Britishers smoking pipes), some based on religious themes. As I was considering heading back to base for lunch, I saw a Western woman in Indian dress in the distance,
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