Blogs from Mcleod Ganj, Himachal Pradesh, India, Asia - page 35

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Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Mcleod Ganj December 25th 2005

I was woken up at ~9AM by a strange woman pressing the doorbell, then banging on the door, then trying to force the door open. I assumed it was housekeeping, but in actual fact it was a member of some other party here who had got her room numbers confused. Depending on who she was expecting to find in the room, me shouting "I'm still in bed" might have been more of an encouragement than a deterrent, but she eventually went away. I wandered along to Tsug Lakhang temple again, figuring it would be a peaceful haven for some Yuletide contemplation. The temple had been decked out in some (possibly Christmas?) livery and had a more festive feel than yesterday (you can compare the photos). I stood around in the crisp, sunny air, alone, unsure how ... read more
Tree at Christmas
Christmas colours
The Times Square of McLeod Ganj

Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Mcleod Ganj December 24th 2005

The hotel put up some Christmas decorations, which seem to have more of a Hawaiian theme than anything else, with assorted fake flowers in orange and pink, though there are a couple of Christmas trees to keep with (English) tradition. One of the employees, presumably the one who drew the short straw, was cavorting around the square in a Father Christmas outfit, with a very un-Father Christmas-like advert for the Asian Plaza on his chest. I was hoping to see the argumentative monks from Namgyal Monastery doing their stuff in the temple courtyard this afternoon, as seen on Michael Palin's Himalaya series, but either I went at the wrong time or they only do it in the summer, as I didn't see even a vaguely irritated monk, let alone one using punches and kicks to emphasise ... read more
Christmas decorations at hotel
Tsuglag Khang temple

Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Mcleod Ganj December 23rd 2005

When I got up at 8AM to turn on the water heater, I was displeased to find that there was no electricity. Since neither Debash nor I were inclined to do much without first having a hot shower, another round of chai and chat ensued before power returned just before midday. This was apparently the longest outage McLeod Ganj had had for months, and also affected other parts of Northern India. Debash's bus for Delhi left at 7PM, and looked to be the most comfortable bus I've seen in my time here. It was a shame to see him go, as it was most welcome to have a familiar face around, as well as having many interesting discussions about spirituality in perhaps one of the more spiritual places on the planet. Back on my own again, ... read more

Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Mcleod Ganj December 22nd 2005

The title says it all. Mooched around in MG, chatted about yoga and related topics (of which Debash is a fount of knowledge - this is the man who kept Madonna waiting to get into the changing room of their yoga studio), and put some serious effort into relaxing.... read more
My room at the Asian Plaza hotel
Sleeping dogs

Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Mcleod Ganj December 21st 2005

First thing, we checked out of the Him Queen and into the Asian Plaza, which we subsequently found out was only a year old, which is why it's in such good shape. A friend of a friend of Debash's, who is studying Buddhism and art here for a few months, met up with us for a leisurely breakfast in the indoor portion of the terrace restaurant. Unfortunately it was overcast and a little breezy, so sitting outside would have made for quite a parky experience. Lunch was back at the Green Hotel, and this time I tried a ganthuk, which is a Tibetan soup containing noodles - almost like a ramen. Definitely a good option on a cold day. After lunch, we went to the temple complex containing, among other things, the Dalai Lama's residence. The ... read more
Mountain
Prayer flags
Debash spinning the prayer wheels at Tsug Lakhang temple

Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Mcleod Ganj December 20th 2005

Even though we both had had a good sleep, it was clear that Debash's room was just not up to scratch - both in terms of the draughty windows, as well as the non-heating water boiler. The manager was tasked with finding another room for him. Since the breakfast room was empty and had a strange smell to it, we decided to try to find a sunny roof terrace elsewhere on which to have breakfast. As we neared the main square, an obvious location presented itself. The roof terrace of the Asian Plaza hotel appeared to be the highest point in town and was also bathed in sunlight. We tramped up to the top, found we were there only customers, and chose a table that overlooked the main square as well as being a sun trap. ... read more
The valley
Mountains behind McLeod Ganj
McLeod Ganj

Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Mcleod Ganj December 19th 2005

Another invigorating early rise (5AM) to catch a train, but fortunately this time the station was only 5 minutes' walk away. Unfortunately the train I was hoping to catch was delayed by 3 hours. After mulling over the best course of action, I decided to return to the hotel and reclaim my room key in order to get another couple of hours of sleep. On returning later, the arrivals board kept adding another 10 minutes to the expected arrival time, so it seemed clear no-one really knew when it was going to arrive. It then turned up but on a neighbouring platform to the one that it should have arrived at. The ticket seller in Delhi had told me that, even though I only had a wait-listed ticket, I would "easily" be able to get into ... read more
My room at the Him Queen
My room at the Him Queen
Sunset at McLeod Ganj

Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Mcleod Ganj December 15th 2005

Like a crack to a stone, frozen in a high mountain clime, warmed by a sudden release; Tashi, then Loti, and then Shampa came back into my life, as I their's. We met on the streets, upon the steep hills of McLeod Ganj, spontaneously, by the will of what is. It started with an early arrival on the 5th. 5:30 AM, freezing, a small pack and the British Airways blanket cloaked as a shawl. Kicked off the bus at its final destination, I wandered down familiar paths toward Tashi and Gyathar's home. I arrived, half numb, and waited outside with the intent to not disturb its inhabitants. Time ticked; one hour, two hours—I drifted in and out of sleep, haunted by flash-dreams of frostbite until the owner of the property emerged from his room. "Tashi," he ... read more
Quarters
Shampa's Lunch
Dra Nyin

Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Mcleod Ganj December 4th 2005

Following last week's events at Drepung monastery in Lhasa, Tibet, where the Chinese authorities sealed off the monastery, strictly controlling who enters and exits, Tibetans in exile have taken up the protests. In a march and rally organized by the Tibetan Youth Congress in McLeod Ganj, Tibetans, locals, and foreigners streamed to lower Dharamsala where a number of speakers from the Youth Congress and local committess talked about the current situation in Lhasa. Speakers urged Tibetans in exile to continue to be vocal and active, reminding that Tibetans in exile have the freedom to speak and act out which those within Tibet do not have. The walk down to Dharamsala lasted about an hour and a half. Different Tibetans, in numerous squads within the long lines of marchers, led the protest slogans in Hindi, English, and ... read more
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Asia » India » Himachal Pradesh » Mcleod Ganj December 1st 2005

...the title of a 35 minute documentary produced by International Campaign for Tibet (ICT) in 2004. Devotion and Defiance: Buddhism and the Struggle for Religious Freedom in Tibet is a vivid declaration of religious control in occupied Tibet. Containing footage from inside monasteries as well as from the Lhasa demonstrations in the late 1980s, it reveals what limitations prevail in and out of the "T.A.R." even today. For example, in 2001 the well-known and attended Larung Gar Buddhist Institute, in Serthar Co., Eastern Tibet (Chinese-claimed) was the target of the Communist Party's paranoia. Fearing the increasing interest by Tibetans, Chinese and overseas buddhists, the Party first ordered the downsizing of Larung Gar (a.k.a. Serthar) after approximately two decades of growth. From a small number of students, the institute grew to attract over 8,000 students, includi... read more
Drepung ruins
Drepung ruins
procession




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