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Asia » Georgia » Southern Georgia » Rustavi September 26th 2023

Day 20 Udabno, Georgia. The Svaneti Connection. We’ve driven in a hire car 86km to Udabno because we wished to see the Davit Gareja Cave Monastery and experience another another part of Georgia’s varied terrain. It turns out that there is a connection between this south eastern part of Georgia (on the cusp of Azerbaijan, more later) and the mountains of Svaneti in the north, the reason we first came to Georgiain 2016. In 2015 we went to see Moshes Bagel, a Scottish Klezmer band at the Sage Gateshead Hall 2, England. Their latest CD was a soundtrack to a Soviet film, Salt to Svanetia, commissioned by Pitlochry Film Festival. The music was played live to the ‘30s film. We fell in love with mediaeval towers we saw in the the Caucasus mountains. As one of ... read more
Udabno town in a desert
Our Udabno Pod
The Davit Gareja Monastery cave cells

Asia » Georgia » Southern Georgia » Gori September 14th 2022

What a day, I’ve learned so much about Georgia in the past plus current politics. I had to take notes! Today was our first trip outside of Tbilisi and Glyn had booked it online before we’d arrived. The meeting point was outside a metro station and we were the first to arrive. I heard Glyn talking to a lady with a recognisable accent, as she was from Manchester and on the same tour as us. The rain began to pour and we sheltered until we were directed to a nearby office where a few tours were to meet. Our guide was a very bubbly Georgian lady, 28 years old from Tbilisi, Catherine, who gathered us by shouting ‘Stalin is calling us’. We were a small group on a minibus, two blokes from Malaysia, a couple from ... read more
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Asia » Georgia » Southern Georgia » Gori August 2nd 2021

When a town boasts healing waters, a mountain atmosphere and a long history of being the playground for royalty, you add it to the itinerary. After all, if it is good enough for Russian Tsars, it‘s probably good enough for us. We left the hipster, big city feel of Tbilisi and traveled a little more than two hours through fertile agricultural valleys and into the mountain village of Borjomi. A small town of only 16,000 people, Borjomi has a big reputation as the water bottling capital of Georgia and is home to baths built in the 1st century AD. Home to over 150 springs, Borjomi is where families go to relax and soak, literally. As we continue to grapple with how to properly describe Georgia based on his geography and history, Borjomi is one of those ... read more

Asia » Georgia » Southern Georgia » Gori June 20th 2018

The minibus dropped us outside the Stalin Museum in Gori. After a surprisingly good coffee in a street stall opposite the museum, we joined on the back of a and English tour group to be shown around the museum. Our guide was quite factual, rather than promoting one side. The upper floor has many images of Stalin through his life, including his death mask. There are also cabinets full of gifts from around the world. Downstairs is a smaller display giving a glimpse of the harsher side of his role in history. For a small extra fee there is his bullet proof train to look around. Our guide was quite balanced telling us throughout that there’s the official and many other versions of the stories around Stalin. Many Georgian families were affected by family members being ... read more
View of Gori from the fortress

Asia » Georgia » Southern Georgia May 9th 2017

Kalt in der Früh, 6,5 Grad, aber trocken. Irrfahrt durch die Stadt. Kars hat einen rechtwinkeligen Grundriss und ein Einbahnstrassensystem wie die Städte in Südamerika. Das Navi hatte zwar gute Vorschläge für den Weg aus der Stadt, aber regelmaessig in die falsche Richtung einer Einbahnstrasse... Dann vierspurige Strasse nach NO, sie fuehrt durchs Nichts, endet im Nichts und keiner braucht sie. Erst das letzte Stueck zur Grenze war zweispurig. Neuschnee der letzten Nacht lag am Strassenrand, Passhoehe von 2500 m, die Griffheizung kaempfte tapfer. Kurz vor der Grenze: riesige Lager fuer den Bau der Pipeline durch die Türkei , sie sind fest dabei. Dann ging es einen Berg hinunter und schlagartig waren wir in einer anderen Welt. Bäume, Büsche, statt Schnee wirbelten weiße Blütenblätter durch die Luft. Und das war natürlich der Beweis: die Hochebene, die ... read more
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Asia » Georgia » Southern Georgia » Gori July 2nd 2015

Thursday July 2 – Today I was brave and took my first minibus (marshrutka) to Gori, Stalin’s hometown. First stop was the Stalin museum, where the driver politely dropped me off. The exhibits were written in Georgian and Russian, with little English, so I cannot say I learned much, but it was cool to see. They even had a creepy copy of his death mask. Outside, they also have the small one room house where he grew up. It remains where it has always been, but all the other houses around were demolished to make a pretty museum area. Next I took a taxi to Uplistsikhe, an ancient cave city outside of Gori. Taxi was the best way to get there. A driver approached me to ask if I wanted to go there. This might be ... read more
Stalin museum
Stalin's death mask
Me and my new bud, Stalin

Asia » Georgia » Southern Georgia July 23rd 2014

Amasya, Turkey July 24th 2014 “Law and order exist for the purpose of establishing justice and when they fail in this purpose they become the dangerously structured dams that block the flow of social progress.” Martin Luther King, Jr. “I know all the rules but the rules did not know me” Eddie Vedder, Guaranteed I hear that the Georgian Government is trying to position itself for full membership to the European Community. While my treatment as described in recent blogs hardly amounts to severe in that I still have both my legs, I do wonder how the behaviour meted out to me adds anything to the Georgian case to be attempting to promote a fair and reasonable civil society. I am 59 years old. ... read more
Free Drugs in Georgia
Grocery essentials in Georgia
Nurofen

Asia » Georgia » Southern Georgia July 22nd 2014

Akhaltsikhe, Georgia July 22nd 2014 “Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy” Franz Kafka “Everything will be all right in the end... if it's not all right then it's not yet the end” Sony, The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel Finale; Scene 1: Tuesday July 22nd: The story of today should not have been needed. I should have been on the bus out of here to Turkey by midday. Except that Georgia suffers from a bureacratic quagmire that I have never before encountered, and it deserves a dedicated write up. I wake up early and do my stuff. I go to the ATM because yesterday when I heard about my fine and tried to withdrawer the amount from my travel card, there was a limit per day stopping me... read more
Headache relief but no codeine
The bill, the receipt, and the release order
The new Criminal with Nino the translator

Asia » Georgia » Southern Georgia July 18th 2014

Abastumani, Georgia July 9th, 2014 “Get back to where you do belong” The Beatles, Get Back Monday night (July 7th), after learning from a phone call to my lawyer that my destiny with the Georgian Public Prosecutor would not be happening for some days, I decided on a whim to leave Tbilisi, not to return to Akhaltsikhe but find somewhere in the mountains (where it would be cooler and relaxing) within striking distance of Akhaltsikhe for when I am called. As I happened to be at the Tourist Information Centre at Liberty Square (that name striking a rather bitter taste in my mouth under my present circumstances) to meet a Spanish traveler I'd gotten to know in Turkey for a beer, I asked the woman behind the desk what might fit the described requirements. Straight away ... read more
Khachapuri and beer
Abastumani house
......and another old house

Asia » Georgia » Southern Georgia July 18th 2014

Abastumani, Georgia July 10th 2014 “Let's go." "We can't." "Why not?" "We're waiting for Godot.”.... ...“There's no lack of void.” Samuel Beckett, Waiting for Godot I had been told that Abastumani had hot-springs. But there was no obvious evidence of them, although there are active 'spa' resorts (sanitoria) in the surrounding hills. My experiences of no English signage (to wit: the drug warning at the border and the hotel signs in Tbilisi) is now expanded to no signs at all. My hotel owner first denied any such thing as hot-springs existing (which I later realised must have just been a failure to communicate), and I began to suspect that access to the three springs I read about on the net were possibly all locked up via these expensive spa resorts. The springs themselves are said to ... read more
The Iveria Hotel
With kitchen earth mothers
The Bathhouse - constructed 1880




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