Blogs from Africa - page 17

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Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes July 25th 2023

Today we get to sample Morocco’s train system with a four hour ride south to the ancient city of Fes. The Tangier train station is an unexpectedly pleasant surprise - a large, opulent modern edifice that would put any train station in Melbourne to absolute shame … not that that would be all that hard. The countryside south of Tangier doesn’t look all that dissimilar to the farmland back home - fertile and productive, with seemingly endless fields of olives, corn, oranges and other sundry fruit and vegetables, all grown under irrigation on an almost industrial scale. And we soon realise why it looks and feels so much like home - there are gum trees, lots of gum trees - the only things missing are the kangaroos. We spend some of the time following the Atlantic ... read more

Africa » South Africa » Western Cape » Knysna July 25th 2023

Dear All I continue to drive along South Africa's Garden Route, the first leg of my epic Cape Town to Johannesburg adventure, from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth. I hit the road again the day after my whale watching trip in Hermanus, and had very much another driving day - I think there will be plenty more of these to come as South Africa is such a huge country, and my trip is not a simple down-the-road one. Fortunately I brought a good mix of songs on my MP3 player which I could listen to along the way - lots of classic US "Road Trip Anthems"! After bidding farewell to my cute and cosy cottage in Hermanus, I drove two hours firstly southeastwards to Cape Agulhas, learning quite quickly not to religiously follow my "Here We ... read more
Pontoon Bridge
Knysna Lagoon
Me

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Tangier July 24th 2023

The plan today is to take a trip west on the local hop-on-hop-off bus over towards the Atlantic coast. I ask the gent at reception where it leaves from, and he tells me that he can sell me a ticket … well a sort of a ticket … he tells me I have to give him 20 dirham, and when I get to the bus stop I need to pay the other 110 dirham to the driver. He says he hasn’t got any change for the 50 dirham note I give him, so he’ll give me my sort of ticket, keep my 50 dirham, and give me my change when I get back. I wander along to the bus stop, where it seems everyone else is only paying 110 dirham in total; none of them have ... read more
Cape Spartel Lighthouse
Tangier waterfront
Our hotel

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen July 23rd 2023

We discover that the activity of choice for young Tangierians at 5am on Sunday mornings is to tear up and down the main drag outside our waterfront hotel with their hands more or less constantly parked on their horns. At least now we don’t need to worry about our alarm clock not going off. And whilst on the subject of clocks and time, what time actually is it? I’ve got three “devices”, and at the moment they‘re displaying three different times. My iPad’s synced to the hotel wifi, so we think that’s probably right. Our phone company doesn’t do roaming in Morocco, but our phones occasionally detect a network across the water in Spain, and when they do they revert to Spanish time, which is an hour ahead ... and my Fitbit … it’s always been ... read more
Chefchaouen
Chefchaouen
Discussing the events of the day, Chefchaouen

Africa » South Africa » Western Cape » Hermanus July 23rd 2023

Dear All So after a wonderful start in Cape Town, on the Saturday after my arrival in the country, my South African road trip began! I picked up my hire car at Cape Town airport, and bade goodbye to this beautiful city - the plan was to spend the next 15 days driving from Cape Town to Johannesburg, quite an epic journey and adventure I must admit! The first part of this country-long road trip would be spending a few days along the beautiful Western Cape coastline dubbed "The Garden Route", between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth. As I began my wheeled adventure, I noted that South African roads seemed quite orderly and straightforward thus far. You have to watch out for a few drivers, mainly the minibus drivers who stop and start everywhere, sometimes drive ... read more
Southern Right Whale
Hermanus Coastal Path
Vergelegen Wine Estate

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Tangier July 22nd 2023

A quick glance out the window into daylight suggests that things aren’t quite as chaotic as they were last night. And it seems that the immutable rule of driving with your hand constantly on the horn only applies during non-daylight hours, which probably explains why we were eventually able to get some shuteye. It seems much cooler here than in the oven that was Spain. I head cautiously out for a wander. This felt like a very intimidating place when we arrived last night, and my confidence isn’t helped by the hotel entrance … well actually that would be two entrances. One of them you just walk through like any normal door, but next to that there’s the red carpet entrance - it’s roped off at the sides with braid supported on gold posts in true ... read more
Plaza Espana
The Kasbah
Entrance to the Kasbah Museum

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Tangier July 21st 2023

Today we’ve got a long and messy day of travelling to Tangier in Morocco, via Malaga, where we’ve got several hours to kill while we wait for our late evening flight. The bus that we came on to Nerja stopped at every pretty coastal settlement along the route, and we‘re looking forward to again enjoying the excellent coastal scenery on the way back … and as an added bonus the trip will again be a long one, soaking up some of those hours we need to kill. But it seems Mr Murphy has again decided to intervene in our lives. The bus back is an express; there are no stops, so so much for the time we were looking to kill … and it doesn’t follow the coast so there’s no scenery to look at. I’m ... read more

Africa » South Africa » Western Cape » Cape Town July 21st 2023

Dear All Amazing! I can't quite believe I'm here! South Africa has often seemed to be such a dark and forboding place given its recent troubles, yet at the same time wondrous and stunning. I'm so excited to explore, and so glad to have made this first step in simply coming here, after hearing so many not-so-good stories. Both my flights here were good - I took Lufthansa with a connection in Frankfurt, as at the time of booking it was cheaper than the only direct flight from the UK with British Airways. The first flight was a short one from Heathrow to Frankfurt, filled with not one but two large school groups. I always seem to end up with school groups on my planes! One group had around 120 young teenage brats from Spain, and ... read more
Aerial Cableway
Nelson Mandela's Cell
Me

Africa » Ghana » Central » Ankwanda July 11th 2023

Ankwanda The ordinary seaside town has nothing to offer tourists other than the fabulous Beach House hotel, owned by Ghanaians living abroad. The bus driver missed our stop and dropped us off 12km away at 5pm. We hadn’t gotten any exercise all day, so we walked to Ankwanda. About half was on a dirt road toward the sea and the other half on the beach at sunset. We arrived just after dark. It really was Peggy's idea to walk, though probably only to impress me. Beach House Ankwanda towers over the town and the view from the delicious rooftop restaurant illustrates the contrast between two worlds - the locals and the tourists. But the town does benefit through its staff - local kids who climb the palms to get coconuts for guests (are we complicit in ... read more
View from the castle pulpit.
Elmina
Condemned Room

Africa » Ghana » Greater Accra July 10th 2023

Arrival Our miserable flights with no entertainment or reclining seats from Malaga via Casablanca landed in Accra at 4:30 AM. After Peggy’s herculean month-long navigation of the visa process, we were expecting more red tape at entry, but the 10-minute immigration process was efficient and friendly. But they were by the book when it came to the yellow fever vaccines. We would never doctor our 15-year-old yellow fever vaccine cards to enter the country - because that would be wrong. We walked the km to the Marriott booked with Peggy’s platinum status. This sort of thing is always Peggy's idea. I was exhausted. And I was embarrassed stepping over people sleeping in the streets on our way to luxury. The breakfast was magnificent but Peggy was denied entry due to rule following, which is pretty funny. ... read more
Shop
The Sludge
At Tudu Bus Station




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