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ANIMALS ABOUND
I became quite used to seeing animals roaming around as they will.AFRICA - CHOOSING ADVENTURE
Day Two: I got up early. Locating things in a dark tent was a challenge. I had the 5' by 5' by 5' tent all to myself, and my belongings were strewn from corner to corner. I was late for the morning meeting, which explained the plans for the day. After breakfast and clean-up, Hubert and I met our driver in the parking lot. He drove us to the horse ranch. Hubert signed us up for ½ day of horseback riding. Neither of us was very experienced. Hubert was enthusiastic and excited but hadn't been on a horse since high school. Our guide took us over some basic riding skills and then led the way onto the desert. We rode through scrub brush and sand and went up close to several giraffes. They were so beautiful. The guide told us about the trees we passed through; many were at an odd angle and had roots showing. Elephants tip them over to eat the small leaves but especially want the bark and roots where most carbohydrates are stored. Some trees were home to mopane worms, which locals eat when food is scarce. After several hours
GIRAFFE EATING LEAVES
Took this photo from horseback while crossing the road to the desert. of peaceful riding, we turned back to the ranch. On terra ferma once more, a young woman led us to a garden where a tray of delicious appetizers awaited us. It was peaceful and warm and so very pleasant.
Back at camp, I rested for 45 minutes, and then a driver took me to a tent in the middle of nowhere. A young woman fitted me with a life jacket for the Devil's Pool experience. I had not read the fine print. I focused on "relaxing in a pool" above Victoria Falls, then "enjoying High Tea." I should have been suspicious of "Devil's Pool." I was thinking of sunshine, warm water, and comfort. First frisson of alarm: We were in a small motor boat in a river, speeding toward the edge of the chasm that became Victoria Falls. I once commented about fishermen in small boats fishing in pools above Niagara Falls, "Who is crazy enough to risk his life fishing in a small boat on a river that runs toward Niagara Falls?" What if they ran out of gas or fell overboard, etc.? And now I was the crazy one, in a small boat headed toward Victoria Falls.
HORSEBACK RIDING
Hubert and I felt pretty proficient as riders. I imagine the guide smirking a little. Imagine my relief as we pulled to shore and secured the skiff behind some large brush near the falls. I was so happy to arrive at our destination in one piece.
We got out and walked barefoot in gooey mud to the Loo with a View, a spotlessly clean bathroom with the riverside open to the elements, offering a mesmerizing view of the moving water. We changed into bathing suits, covered ourselves with oversized cold plastic ponchos, and then walked through the muck again until we were close to the falls. The noise thundered like a gigantic heartbeat, and I felt the power of the falling water. Cold water and mist surrounded us. It was four o'clock. There was no sun to warm us. I was shivering.
I was in a group of seven or eight people, all strangers to me. My Red Bus group must have carefully checked this activity on the computer and chose not to join in the fun.
While waiting my turn, I was tucked under a small yellow rope, standing thigh-deep in moving water about twelve feet from the drop-off. I watched the family group that was ahead of me. Two kids
THIRSTY HORSES
It is hard to get a good photo while riding. and two parents. Two young men escorted the family to a large rock in the mist close to the fall. One was the photographer, and the other provided support as people walked to their perch for a photo. Slippery, uneven rocks under cold, rushing water seemed risky to me. After several group photos sitting on the bench-like rock with the falls in the background, one by one, each member posed for another photograph, lying on an enormous, barely submerged rocky shelf. The guide held the victim's feet while stretched out and inching forward to dangle hands over the edge of the falling water.
When my turn came, I kept thinking, "This is insane! Who does something like this, and for what reason?" The rock I was lying on was gouging my knees and stomach. I wasn't terrified, just stunned. I followed instructions minute to minute. Afterward, relieved, I sat under a small 2-foot waterfall, waiting for the rest of the group to finish their photo shoot. It was warmer under the water than sitting on a rock above it.
When we all finished with the adrenaline rush, we turned around and walked through the mud to a dull
HUNGRY AND THIRSTY
Both horses and riders. khaki tent behind us. We put on our damp clothes and went inside for our "High Tea," small hamburger sliders, small, cold, dry cakes, and a little fruit - truly unexceptional. We sat at tables arranged in a big square. The rest of the group were expats worrying about the difficulties of getting the best education for their children. Only one other woman and I had tea. The rest drank beer.
Although I wouldn't recommend this activity to others, it was exciting, and being a water person, I am glad I did it.
Back at camp, I had time for a quick shower. Then the whole group went to a nice restaurant for dinner. For some reason, I felt compelled to order a plate of mopane worms. They look like hard black rubber caterpillars (of the emperor moth) with even harder spikes running in rows down their length, making them uncomfortable to chew; they were almost inedible. I offered to share them, but there were no takers. Everyone else ordered sensible entrees. I watched them eat delectable food while I slowly forced down eight worms, then permitted myself to stop. Never again. The waiter assured me they were
SPRAY IN MY FUTURE
We are actually boating toward Victoria Falls. Spooky. very healthy and full of protein. It didn't matter.
Back at camp, I was happy for privacy and rest. It was an exciting day, and I looked forward to leaving Livingstone and starting the trek tomorrow.
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