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ANIMALS, ANIMALS, ANIMALS
We often traveled through several game parks in a day. AFRICA - THE RED BUS
The trip truly began on Day 3. It was the first day of breaking camp early, transferring our bags to a big blue tarp near the Big Red Bus. Then we dismantled the tent, rolled it up, and took it to the tour director packing the bus. The other tour leader cooked breakfast while we gathered in a circle of camp chairs. The breakfasts were always good, offering daily options such as dry cereal, yogurt, milk, fruit, and a cooked plate: oatmeal, bacon and eggs, or pancakes. Usually, there was tea, but I am a real tea drinker, and only rarely was there time for a second cup due to our travel itinerary. I'm a creature of habit, and I missed my toast as well.
The plan for Day 3 was a grueling 9 hrs. of driving. After breakfast, we chose our bus seats but were asked to change them daily so all travelers got a change of scene. We bought our own water, but there was a box of snacks and fresh fruit on the bus. Thirty minutes from our camp in Livingstone, we entered the narrow strip of land in Namibia called
WART HOGS
I liked the balance in this photo. Caprivi that separates Angola, Zambia, and Botswana. We drove on potholed roads, and even with a stop for a border crossing and another for lunch, it was soon apparent that four months did not heal a broken clavicle. The rocking, rolling bus ride jolted my shoulder so badly that I was in great pain after only a couple of hours. I could not find a way to support my shoulder sufficiently to lessen the pain. I rejoiced with our stops for supplies and taking photos.
The Caprivi has an abundance of large rivers that attract a wide variety of birds and animals, so we often slow down or stop to photograph wild animals. The guides pointed out many of them and named them for us, but soon, we spotted them ourselves. We saw all the familiar "zoo and circus" animals, some gathered at man-made waterholes. There were innumerable elands and antelope, small animals like warthogs and an occasional jackal, and even an ostrich flock. No matter how many we have seen, I am always happy to film giraffes, zebras, and elephants.
The pain in my shoulder persisted, and I was so relieved when we finally rolled-in to the
HANS PREPARING A LUNCH ON THE ROAD
The menu varied and was always appreciated. campground where we would spend the night.
The campsite was a barren dirt area with a few big trees. I joined some other campers at the viewing site that overlooked the sunken waterhole to watch for animal activity. I could see a few small creatures but no big cats or elephants. I only watched briefly because I wear glasses and do not see well in dim light. Later, in the dark, in my tent, I could hear the roaring lions like they were 20 feet away. They have powerful lungs to make that much noise. Other campers in our group saw a herd of elephants come in to drink.
This campground was typical of most of those we encountered during our tour. Each site had a thick concrete pad with a fire pit that minimized dust and fire hazards. We often sat around the fire after dinner.
One night, we roasted marshmallows. I am impatient and like to catch my marshmallow on fire, spin it till it is charred on all sides, and then blow out the flames. I suck off the charcoal and then burn it again. It turns out that this is unusual, and Martin,
FOOD PREPARATION
Yes, the women did their share. who has two young girls, warns them that eating charcoal is bad for their health. I doubt I have suffered much due to this habit since marshmallows are not often on my menu.
Each campground had many campsites, each big enough for eight to ten tents. Each sported a fire pit, a clean-up area with running water, counters with sinks, and trash centers for separate types of trash. One or two communal bathrooms bordered the tent areas.
A note about dinner. Edwin and Norman, our guides, did most of the cooking. However, sometimes we helped with sous-chef tasks, cleaning vegetables, slicing and dicing, unpacking dishes, arranging seating, etc. One of our fellow travelers was an experienced chef and sometimes planned and presented lunches or made evening meal entrees. Once dinner was over and the dishes were washed and put away, I went to my tent and fell into sleep. I was exhausted.
On day 4, we stayed at Nkawzi Lodge, owned and operated by Namibia. The lodge is a leader in Eco-tourism: 25% of the power is solar, and 50% of the vegetables used are grown on-site. All the staff is hired from the local community. The
EVENING QUARTERS
We set up camp chairs while the staff prepared the meal. owners educate children from preschool through university and provide three meals daily for 40 to 50 children. Guided village visits also financially benefit the local community.
Before boarding the bus the following day, our village visit started with a walk through sand and scrub brush, illustrating how isolated the area was. Of necessity, they rely on each other. The small enclave lay on flat sandy ground surrounded by a high mud wall to protect those inside from predators. We met some of the women who lived there. One was a very old widow with no children. She lived in a small windowless concrete room about the size of a twin-size bed, with no table, chair, or closet. Another woman had four or five children but no husband to help care for them. She was strong and capable and organized the rest of the women who made this their home. For one reason or another, the women were all heads of households without men. We listened to their stories and donated money, school supplies, and small gifts. The children were disappointed that there was no candy, but we were told not to bring sweets.
We were sobered as we
NIGHT VIEW...THE WATER HOLE
Most camps had a viewing area. started the day's journey. We covered many more miles and enjoyed a short lunch break and more game drives. We stopped at the Kwando River and boarded a large motor boat with a canopy to protect us from the sun. This was the highlight of the day for me. No jolting potholes, and we could walk around on the boat and stretch our legs. We watched the monkeys cavort in the treetops and along the river. Many small animals, birds, and crocodiles call the river's edge home, and the boat often pulled in close to shore for better viewing. We moored near the large savanna at the bend in the waterway. We had a superb view of Buffalo, a rhino, and the herd animals here. And so many birds.
I only had a small Canon camera and took very few bird photos. Still, I enjoyed seeing the birds in their natural habitat. Two men had huge cameras with lenses a foot and a half long. It was fun watching them take photos. It turns out I forgot my camera battery charger, and I was flummoxed…What can I do?
Just after setting up the tents, I noticed a young
THE NIGHT THE LIONS ROARED
This viewing area sported a fence to block the big cats. It looked quite insubstantial. couple in a small camper and marveled that they were camping solo. We struck-up a conversation, and I saw they had the same camera as mine. They allowed me to borrow their charger to charge my batteries. I will find a charger in the next city we pass through.
My arm continues to ache painfully. I manage by taking meloxicam and non-aspirin, minimizing the jolting with my jacket and travel pillow, and wearing my arm sling.
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