We arrived in Kigali, the capital, on Friday, from Nairobi. You instantly feel a different vibe here, younger and more vibrant. You seem to get to "see" more of the city from the taxi, because there are so many hills in Kigali (and, it turns out, all over the country). The effect is that there is always a great "view". Our driver, arranged through our modest hotel, was having trouble getting his older model Toyota up some of the steepest hills. Then he turned onto the dirt road where our hotel was located, and I really started worrying whether we were going to make it at all! The main roads are well paved, but the lesser roads are still dirt, which means that after a big rain they are terribly rutted, and there is just no
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