Building a better future

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My eyes filled with tears fit for overflowing as I began to process the shocking information at the Kigali Memorial Centre. The genocide exhibition leaves one consumed with an overwhelming sense of anger, frustration and outrage, as visitors slowly come to grips with the tragedy of the Rwandan genocide. To be honest it's almost unbearable having to deal with such an unflinchingly honest and graphic portrayal of the lead up to; horrifying reality of; and devastating aftermath of the events in Rwanda in 1994. This tiny country shocked the world during an horrific three months of madness that cost up to a million lives.

The journal continues in Rwanda, dear reader, where visitors to the Memorial Centre reflect on the pervasive inhumanity that resides within the darkest recesses of the human mind. Mankind must continue the struggle for what is good, for what is true, and for what is just for all ... thereby avoiding the temptation to commit evil deeds. Rwanda does not stand alone in dealing with raw and unbearable emotions of horror and grief, stemming from the genocide that tore this country apart a mere seventeen years ago. The memorial centre features a second floor exhibition that bears testament to other dark episodes of genocide, which occurred during the course of the previous century in several countries.

The recent history of Rwanda as chronicled in the exhibition leaves little doubt the negligence and culpability of the west cannot be easily expunged from the history books. During my travels on the African continent I bear witness to the devastating impact colonial rule had on local populations in country after country. The arbitrary borders that make up modern Africa were largely imposed by western powers, and it may be generations before the proud people of this mighty and beloved continent can put to rights the injustices of past wrongs. For example, the Memorial Centre details a history of Hutu and Tutsi living harmoniously together prior to colonial rule, but western meddling in the tribal structure led to an atmosphere of increasing distrust, resentment and anger as Rwandans began to turn on each other.

In life nothing occurs in a vacuum, and the entire world knows the catastrophic consequences of the tribal divisions that rocked Rwanda. Violence exploded on an unimaginable scale, to irrevocably shake the western world out of it's pervading attitude of complacency to the plight of Africa. I found some peace when paying respects at the memorial gardens, where up to 240,000 victims of the genocide are buried in mass graves. The garden itself stretches over three levels, and has been lovingly worked on to provide a peaceful resting place for the victims. It also gives the visitor a chance to reflect on how precious life is, a gift we should always treasure even in the darkest times.

The Rwandan President seems determined to move the country forward in a spirit of forgiveness and reconciliation, and the government has instilled the ethos that we are all Rwandans and there are no tribes. When travelling through modern day Rwanda, it’s almost incomprehensible to reflect on the horrors that occurred in this beautiful land of a thousand hills less than twenty years ago. There has been a massive influx of western aid since the dark period of 1994, and the current focus of the government is to develop trade, not aid. This is a country where up to 90% of the people work to cultivate small plots of land, and you will see every part of the hills cultivated to provide a beautiful patchwork quilt effect, even on the steepest terrain. It’s a glorious sight to behold while travelling through the countryside in this fertile land.

The Rwandans have made enormous progress since the genocide and the capital Kigali is the cleanest, safest and best organised city I’ve visited in East Africa. It’s surprising to see paved streets and footpaths throughout the capital, with busy workers keeping the greenery around the capital looking quite the picture. The moto taxi drivers are scrupulously honest, and have identification numbers on their vests. They are required to wear a helmet, as well as carrying an extra one for the use of the single passenger allowed on their bikes. It’s certainly a different experience travelling in Rwanda when compared to my recent travels through East Africa. The recent riots in Kampala forced a change of plan to my travel itinerary, but the extra time spent visiting Rwanda has proved to be an unexpected blessing.

I’ve been out and about to experience the nightlife during my visit to Kigali. There’s no comparison between the city and the thumping good times on offer in Kampala, but after a couple of nights I was content to enjoy the music and interact with locals, albeit on a smaller scale to what’s going down across the border. A common theme in East Africa has been an education on the joys of African music, and I think I've interrogated every local around for the names of the performing artists pumping out the high rotation songs at the clubs. My first night at the largest club in Kigali was not the best, as I stewed for around two solid hours while being subjected to a litany of American ‘yo yo, you in the know bro’ rap cr@p, before finally Mr DJ decided to spin some fine African tunes. But hey yo, no offence bro, I ain’t no ho yo, I ain’t no mo fo … let’s just put our difference down to divergent musical tastes.

During the last few weeks I’ve barely exchanged a sentence with a white person, following a whirlwind introduction to the country courtesy of my Canadian friend, yet my visit to Rwanda is an experience I’ll always treasure. The other guests at the excellent Auberge la Caverne hotel are locals, and fill up the hotel bar every evening. The food is the best I’ve experienced during this entire African adventure, and the Rwandese are wonderful people, you'll see their faces light up following a friendly gesture or greeting. It’s been an absolute pleasure to visit this beautiful country where, basically all of you should be here now!

There will be no humanity without forgiveness. There will be no forgiveness without justice. But justice will be impossible without humanity." Yolande Mukagasana

As I continue my travels, until next time it’s signing off for now

Tom

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Photos

Kigali Memorial Centre garden
A beautiful monument to the victims.

Kigali Memorial Centre
A stunning experience and a must see on your travels.

Entrance to Kigali Memorial Centre
The eternal flame burns for the genocide victims.

Entrance to the gardens
Mass graves of the victims are set in the tranquil garden next to the centre.