Here we are in yet another UNESCO-listed medina, this time in the charming, picturesque, and vowel-laden fishing town of Essaouira. We have kind of backtracked a little, after spending a few days in the Atlas Mountains south of Marrakech, but the thought of good seafood and cool sea breezes was too enticing yesterday afternoon, when we were delivered back into the searing, smoggy heat of Marra. First - the Atlas. Suze and I entertained grandiose dreams of trekking up North Africa's highest mountain, Jebel Toubkal, and so we made our way up to the village of Imlil, at the foot of the great peak. From Marrakech, this meant a very tight squeeze in a grand taxi, which is not as grand as it sounds, it is basically just a 1970s-model Mercedes sedan with six passengers shoved
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