Blogs from Tigray Region, Ethiopia, Africa

January 15, 2015. What a splendid time it has been in this "country" of Somaliland. I could have easily stayed a few more days but with one week before I flew home, there was time left for one more grand adventure. I have itchy feet today, time to move. I'm at the airport in Hargeisa, trying to get standby ticket back to Addis Ababa. The airport staff were all very encouraging, told me that I had picked the right day. And just like that, I got a ticket, waved goodbye to this most amazing place, jetted to the West and in an hour was on the ground in vibrant Addis Ababa. At the airport (ouch) they made me pay for another visa, as I had traveled "internationally". At the domestic airport, as I feared, I discovered ... read more

My friend Hannah and I spent a night in Sinkata to visit a friend of hers, check out a cluster of rock-hewn churches nearby, and then in the morning run to Hawzien to check out another church there. The town itself looks more like a pueblo in an arid region in Mexico than a settlement in northern Ethiopia. The Peace Corp volunteer there said that they have no water eight months of the year. Most of the way to Mekele (2 hours by minibus) and to Hawzien (40 minutes by minibus) is paved now, but the main road in town seems to be the last step in this process. Once it is done (a year or two?), Sinkata might grow some decent restaurants and places to stay. For the time being, it looks like a war ... read more

It's worth it to stop in Axum for a few hours, though its reputation as a tourist destination is generally disappointing. The entire town seems to be under major construction. After weaving our way through giant trucks, rock breakers, and heavy machinery, we came to the ruins, and one aggressive tout. The monuments were impressive, though many of them have collapsed. The underground section was closed while we were there, though it looked interesting. We spent maybe twenty minutes looking around and then walked toward the bus station for some coffee and lunch. The main road is actually quite nice and peaceful. Once the construction is complete in a couple of years, Axum might be a more pleasant place to spend some time. I'll write more later; there are several photos below.... read more

On leaving Axum, we decided we wanted to try visit some of the rock-hewn churches, which Tigray is famous for. We decided to get to Adigrat first and use it as a base. Unfortunately, a lot of the churches aren't easily accessible (one requires you to climb up a rope to visit), especially when relying on public transport. By the time we arrived in Adigrat, we were too late to make it out to visit anything, so just had a walk around town. There isn't much to see or do in Adigrat and they certainly do not get many tourists there. There is quite a few NGOs there though, as it bore the brunt of a lot of fighting in the most recent Ethio-Eritrean War. After one night there we got a bus south on the ... read more

You scratch another flea byte as you head deeper into the Danakil Depression. As the temperature exceeds 47°c sweat pores down your face saturating you stinking clothes. Choking on toxic fumes you study the alien landscape while you pass turquoise lakes and blinding white salt pans. For a moment you feel a sense of vulnerability as your mind drifts back to the 2007 kidnappings. Losing your concentration you fall once again as a frozen lava chamber gives way beneath your feet. Suddenly Afar nomads surround the expedition team and the real adventure begins. Under the protection of the Ethiopian army, you drive in a convoy for security. With the recent infiltration by Eritrea terrorists and temporary closure of the Danakil Depression, you remain vigilant while Ethiopian soldiers scout the region, remaining on high alert. “Those who ... read more