Arriving back into Darwin after our jolly in Bali, we eventually managed to convince the immigration officer that despite her intuition we really aren’t illegally working our way around Oz (and we’re really not!) and finally stamped in for another six months were reunited with Tilly, our van. Obviously upset that we’d abandoned her for a week, she’d decided to leak clutch and brake fluid everywhere. We managed to limp round to the caravan park we’d previously stayed in which was still locked up for the night, and so ended up sleeping on the side of the road for a few hours. The next day, $500 and a rebuilt master cylinder later, we were on our way south towards Melbourne. Heading down “the track”, as the Stuart Highway is often referred to, we passed dozens and
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