Day One December is Eastern Europe at its most forbidding, yet here we are, barreling towards Karlovy Vary (or Carlsbad, as it was formerly called) to take the waters at the largest spa town in the Czech Republic. We have put all our trust in Camilla Parker Bowles, the name we have given to our GPS navigational system. In her genteel British accent, she routes us through the countryside, avoiding all the highways. We think Camilla's on her best behaviour since, reluctant in Amsterdam, she turned truly belligerent in Paris. Ron claimed she was suffering from satellite triangulation problems but I've been thinking she would benefit from hormone replacement therapy. A few kilometres west of Prague, suddenly frisky, she decides to take us on
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