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Published: November 3rd 2022
Torre de Belém
"... the Tower of Belem, one of the most interesting structures in Lisbon. It was completed in 1520, in the reign of Emmanuel, for the protection of the Tagus, and is said to be modelled on an old design by Garcia da Resend, private secretary of John II. It stood originally on a rocky islet in the stream".--Baedeker 1913
Monastery of the Hieronymites and Tower of Belém in Lisbon UNESCO World Heritage site.
DSC_0653p1Our second day in Lisbon began with an extensive buffet breakfast at the Tivoli Hotel. I've seen many a European hotel breakfast buffet, but this one outdid them all. I ordered an omelet from the omelet staton and enjoyed other selections, including yogurt, sausages, breads, cheeses and even a Pastel de Nata. Thus fortified, we were ready for a day of sightseeing around the capital.
The tour bus now took us south of Avenida da Liberdade and past Praça Dom Pedro IV. It is one of the oldest squares in Lisbon and said to have been the site of the hippodrome in Roman times. The wavy pavement tiles here (known as
calçada Portuguesa) recall but predate the similar tile sidewalk patterns in Brazil. The square leads into the Chiado neighborhood, one of the oldest parts of the city. It was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake following the direction of the Marquis of Pombal. The streets were laid out in a grid system with their names describing the trade that was to be practiced there. Thus, we were driving on Rua Áurea, the street of the goldsmiths. A most curious sight on this street was the Elevador de Santa Justa. The
Igreja Santa Maria de Belém - Portal
Igreja Santa Maria de Belém at the Jerónimos Monastery. Main Portal. The tympanum depicts scenes from the life of St Jerome, a statue of Henry the Navigator is between the doors, many carved statues in niches, a statue of the Madonna and many flamboyant pinnacles and gables in Manueline style.
"The church of Santa Maria, at the S.E. angle of the monastery, is the burial-place of Emmanuel and his successors, and is celebrated for the gorgeous architecture of its S. façade. The superb Main Entrance, about 40 ft. wide and 105 ft. high, was designed by Joao de Castilho and is lavishly adorned with sculptures by Master Nicholas, 'the Frenchman'. It is framed by two buttresses and a large circular arch. Above is a wealth of pinnacles, niches, and statues; and at the very top, rising over the beautiful open parapet of the roof, is a canopy surmounted by the cross of the Order of Christ".--Baedeker 1913
Monastery of the Hieronymites and Tower of Belém in Lisbon UNESCO World Heritage site.
DSC_0703p1 wonderfully Gothic Revival contrivance is a true urban public elevator or lift. Opened in 1902, it ascends 148 feet (45 m) from Rua Áurea at Rua de Santa Justa to Largo da Carmo. It's even operated by Carris, the Lisbon transport authority.
The first objective of morning sightseeing was the Belem Tower (
Torre de Belém or
Torre de São Vicente). The small, but elaborately decorated, fortification was completed in 1519 as an addition to the defenses of the mouth of the Tagus River. The tower is set in an attractive park along the coast.
Next was the nearby Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, (Jerónimos Monastery or Hieronymites Monastery)
. Construction of the monastery began in 1501 and was finished in 1601. The monastery replaced a church on the same site. Famously, Vasco da Gama had spent the night at the church before setting off on his voyage to India in 1497. (He is buried in the monastery's church.) Manuel I directed the monastery to be built in thanksgiving for Vasco da Gama's successful voyage and invited the religious order of Saint Jerome, or the Hieronymite monks, to
Igreja Santa Maria de Belém - Dome
Dome of the Igreja Santa Maria de Belém at the Jerónimos Monastery.
DSC_0700 occupy the new monastery. They were provide assistance to sailors setting out on voyages of discovery. (It was a heady time in Portugal with the Age of Discovery underway and the 1494 Treaty of Tordesillas assigning all newly discovered lands east of the meridian to the Portuguese.)
The Jerónimos Monastery is regarded as one of the best examples of
Manueline style architecture. (Belem Tower is also in this style.) Manueline or
Manuelino was developed under Manuel I (1469-1521) and is a bridge between Gothic and Renaissance. It came about at the time of the Portuguese voyages exploration. This unique Portuguese style combined Gothic, Moorish, and Renaissance elements, with motifs inspired by the ocean, the ships of discovery and the newly explored lands. Many of the rooms are decorated with Portuguese
Azuelo tiles.
Both Belem Tower and the Jerónimos Monastery are part of the Monastery of the Hieronymites and Tower of Belém in Lisbon UNESCO World Heritage site.
The morning tour concluded at the heights of Parque Eduardo VII, named for Edward VII of Great Britain. From here, one has a panoramic view over central Lisbon.
In the afternoon, we went on the Tile Museum optional tour.
Cloister
Cloister, Jerónimos Monastery (1501-1601).
"The superb Cloisters (Claustro), the masterpiece of Joao de Castilho, are in the form of a square of about 180 ft., with blunted comers. They are surrounded by a two-storied arcade and form the main glory of the convent. The beautiful groining, the round-headed windows with their graceful columns and exquisite tracery, and the wealth of Renaissance ornamentation applied to all available surfaces combine to make a visit to these cloisters a thing never to be forgotten".--Baedeker 1913
Monastery of the Hieronymites and Tower of Belém in Lisbon UNESCO World Heritage site.
DSC_0687 The Museu Nacional do Azulejo (National Tile Museum) is located in the former Madre de Deus convent, founded 1509 by Queen Dona Leonor (Eleanor of Viseu). Exhibits trace the development of Portuguese ceramic tile making from tiles made in Seville, Toledo and Valencia in the 15th century. Spanish tile making had, in turn, been developed from Moorish glazed earthenware tile work. (Such tiles are glazed only on one side, unlike other faience earthenware.) First used as abstract floor and wall tile squares, Portuguese decorative tiled panels with religious motifs appeared by the 16th and early 17th centuries. Tile panels depicted secular themes from the 17th century onward. Production of tiles continues today, considered integral to Portuguese culture. Such tiles are known as
azuelos as blue is the predominant color. The chapel of the convent is part of the museum and displays its original blue and white azuelos depicting the lives of Mary, St. Clare and St. Francis. The 20th and 21st century has seen the tile become an abstract art form in itself. The musuem continues to collect and catalog azuelos of all eras. As part of our tour, we attended a workshop in tile making where we each made
Cloister
Cloister, Jerónimos Monastery (1501-1601).
"The superb Cloisters (Claustro), the masterpiece of Joao de Castilho, are in the form of a square of about 180 ft., with blunted comers. They are surrounded by a two-storied arcade and form the main glory of the convent. The beautiful groining, the round-headed windows with their graceful columns and exquisite tracery, and the wealth of Renaissance ornamentation applied to all available surfaces combine to make a visit to these cloisters a thing never to be forgotten".--Baedeker 1913
Monastery of the Hieronymites and Tower of Belém in Lisbon UNESCO World Heritage site.
DSC_0693 a tile in the Portuguese style.
The visit to the museum afforded a drive through the port area of Lisbon, where no fewer than five cruise ships were docked. We also passed a number of Lisbon's famous trams. Most are small vehicles from the 1930s that have been rebuilt. They need to be short to negotiate Lisbon's hilly and winding streets.
For dinner we decided to stay at the hotel and dine at Cervejaria Liberdade, the hotel's restaurant. I ordered another refreshing Gaspacho and Bacalhau à Brás, Portuguese style cod with shoestring potatoes. The Bacalhau was good, but there was a lot of it! (it is served in a covered pot and is a very hearty meal.)
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Dancing Dave
David Hooper
Location, location, location
Can't get better than this!!!