GR11 - Candanchu to past Refugio Respomuso, 3 days, 264km done

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Thursday 28 July
Extra Rest day in Candanchu due to storm forecast
0km

Well the storm forecast kept changing and making the storm later, so maybe we could of walked today and got to another hotel for the storm to then come in overnight, but, then we would have missed out on the amazingly special day we ended up having with Pedro and the restaurant hotel staff.

Catching the bus with Pedro to the capital Jaca, he then showed us round the city including the fort, massive cathedral (with marble windows!-something we’ve not seen since the Taj Mahal) and where his grandmum used to live. We then bumped into the two restaurant staff having a drink, so joined them and their friends for a while to celebrate ones birthday (talking broken English and Spanish between us with Pedro translating at times) before then getting taken to a popular side street restaurant where he knew the owner so got us a table almost straight away. Cue lots of local tapas dishes, with huge effort in making sure they were vegetarian, and drink, all paid for (despite our best efforts to pay some money).

This was unexpectedly followed by a short walk to their apartment complex swimming pool for a dip and exchanging of music taste. Not only that, but Pedro then showed us the best chocolate/pastry shop, ensuring we tried some, and we all then got a lift back to the hotel with the restaurant staff as they were heading back there too (as staff tend to live in when working) via a stop to look at Cranfrac Station (massive station never finished and now being turned into a hotel).

What a one in a million kind of day.

Friday 29 July
Candanchu to wild camp just below the incline to Ibón d’Anayet
10km
15:45 - 19:00 with just short photo / wee breaks

Well the storm did come after all! It got very grey and cloudy yesterday evening with heavy rain showers and some flashes of lightning, but really began around 1am; bright white lightening in the air and rumbles of thunder. It continued on and off the rest of the night into this morning, with it being briefly done n top of us as we sat munching on breakfast. With the forecast saying it would stop mid-morning but then make another appearance after lunch we decided to not rush and just enjoy the extra time to ensure things are charged, clean and maps downloaded. It also meant we were saying thanks again to the hotel staff, not only for being flexible and allowing us to stay in the room as long as we wanted but also, our restaurant friends had cooked up Aragon’s specialty dish for the staff and made a separate portion veggie style just for us! I know, we can’t believe it either.

Finally, after feeling like it had well and truly passed, we headed on out around 15:30. I think we had got too comfy in the hotel as it instantly felt hot and hard, but it didn’t take long to get back into it. As we only had the afternoon we planned to just walk up along the river and pitch up before the first main hill climb; and it was a beautiful little spot. Joined by another couple who waved but pitched up the other side, we all seemed to do the same evening routine of a river wash, cook, stretch, teeth and bed; just in time before misty wet cloud came and surrounded us.

Saturday 30 July
Wild camp just below the incline to Ibón d’Anayet to wild camp at Plana Tornadizas picnic area past Sallent de Gallego
19km
7am - 6pm with regular short breaks and 30mins below Ibon Anayet, 30mins near Formigal Petrol station, and 3hours in Sallent de Gallego

Waking up all a bit damp (no wind, misty wet cloud and being by a river caused our first real noticeable condensation issue) we left the tent up as long as we could and shook it off as much as possible before heading off. The low cloud had now gone and the sunlight was emerging on the mountain tops as we looked up into what seemed to be a huge mountain wall. Hmmmmm. Guided by clear waymarkers though, we zigzaged our way up and were soon more then halfway up, when we heard people. Rock climbers! Scary stuff. A little further and we reached the lake at the top, and, spotting many tents, were glad we stayed down lower last night.

From here, it was all down hill! Clear paths, but rocky and edgy at points, we kept going down and down and down. The odd thing about it though, was we kept passing people going up! By the time we got to the main road after Anayet ski centre, we must have passed hundreds of people; couples, families, older and younger, in running gear and regular clothes and trainers. I know it’s Saturday and school holidays, but this felt so strange, and we still don’t know why.

There is now a trail that goes through the fields and over hills (rather then the old road walk) down to Formigal, which we were thankful for, ending up only on the road very briefly at the end. With the sun getting hotter and realising we hadn’t really drunk much today, we were beginning to feel a bit tired so had a quick break, knowing Sallent de Gallego want too much further. However, it felt like quite a long way still, as you pass by Formigal and take dirt tracks crossing between the main road, with it getting increasingly steep towards the end as you enter town.

Initially wary of the noise and sudden business of people as we entered the town, it ended up being some good timing, as the yearly festival was happening this weekend and meant there were loads of food stalls; including a vegan one! Veggie nachos and quesadillas tasted soooo good. Fed and watered, we were feeling better, enjoyed some more local brass band playing, and hit the shop for a resupply before setting out again. With no camping here, we followed the trail up and away from town, along another river. It still took quite a while though, to loose the herds of people, as there were a few spots along the river obviously popular for the locals.

Making it to an empty field marked as a picnic area (one bench), just before the incline became more noticeable, we sat and rested. Near the river for water and with a huge waterfall up ahead of us, it was a lovely and quiet spot so we decided to stay. The trail was still near us though, and we were surprised by how many people were still walking both into and out of town. Waiting until later to put the tent up, we cooked and stretched first, then eventually settled to bed peacefully.

Sunday 31 July
Wild camp at Plana Tornadizas picnic area past Sallent de Gallego to wild camp below the incline to Ibon de Llena Cantal
9km
8am - 2pm with lots of short breaks, 30min snack stop on incline and 120min stop at Refugio de Respomuso

Another still night near a river, and again things were a little damp, but we headed out quickly this morning, having noticed several people pass us already (this area is so popular for walking / climbing). A rocky but wide path lead us up to the waterfall we had been looking at all night, and then continued on up and around. Following it under the shade of trees through the wooded gorge, we already had a few people pass us along here, we hopped across rocks through the stream end of a higher waterfall and now there were lots of people coming down from the other way!

Finding a spot on the rocky incline, we snacked, and during this weird moment of quietness, noticed a herd of Chamois across the way. Again, the sun was getting hotter so we tried to drink more today, and kept going up bit by bit, until, having passed many more people, we saw the giant dam and reached the lake with the Refugio sitting further along the side. The trail decides more incline is needed though, as you head up and back on yourself before eventually levelling out briefly in the direction of the Refugio.

Stopping here for food and drink (and to use the toilet only to find they are squat toilets!) we chilled for a while, and people watched and enjoyed the variety of hikers there. Still being quite early and knowing the trail only goes up from here, (heading to the highest point of the GR11!) we figured we could make some of that incline today, so set off again. The trail noticeably gets rockier with more scree (getting us prepped for the upcoming day) but still very doable and we’ll way marked, as it veers around mounds and lakes, down to a river and then up, crossing the streams down a few times.

Initially thinking we could get to the lake, Ibon de Llena Cantal, and camp there we were told by hikers coming down that it’s best to get water from the streams here before heading up to that bit. So, rather then carry that extra weight and worry about having enough water for the night, we decided to stay just below, next to the streams instead. With a little more shelter then up by the lake, water source on tap, the sun still warming us, an amazing view, and a few marmots to keep us company, we relaxed here, again waiting to pitch up until later for discrete wild camping, before settling to sleep. Prepped and raring to go, albeit also very nervous, for tomorrows big day; the highest and trickiest part of the GR11.

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Comments

[Hev]

Hello
Hi guys, enjoying catching up with your blog. Your photos are brilliant, are you using a specific camera or just your mobile‘phones? Am reading this on Thurs (4th) so hope the tricky bit’s gone well and is getting slightly easier ? Take care, Heather Xx

[here looks good]

Just our phones Hev, it is amazing scenery! Past few days have been tricky but amazing, rest day tomorrow so finally got some signal again to get blogs up to date x