Great Glen Way July 2022

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Saturday, 23 July 2022, Day 6 Great Glen Way, Blackfold to Drumnadrochit from north to south today. 8 miles, 3 hours 28 min. 439 feet elevation gain by Garmin 8.1 miles, 3:29 hours, 522 feet elevation gain with All Trails App.

Today we have Loch Ness Travel provide a shuttle from our hotel to the Blackfold area along the GGW. Jo and I then walked from this point south west along the route back to Drumnadrochit. This broke up the 20 mile route from here to Inverness. It was estimated to be a 12 mile walk. The driver mentioned how glad we should be to be taken up the road of this steep hill. As we drove we saw walkers along the mile and a half section that is along the A82 setting out for Inverness.

At the drop off point there was a well marked pine needle covered path that was canopied by pines, cedars and a variety of deciduous trees. Rain had been forecast but we were having a nice bright, but cloud covered, walk through the woods. There were only a few views, through the trees, of farm houses across fields on a ridge. They appear as silhouettes on the horizon. The path led onto a road at the junction of a logging operation and we started to climb. It was a gentle climb up, but for a distance, until we reached the high point of this segment more than 1200 feet above sea level. The loch is about 50 feet above sea level. What was the more adventurous part of the walk, was when we steeply descended to the A82.

At about an hour into our walk we started meeting the people we had seen on the highway. Still believing we had a 12 mile walk we thought they were really moving. Then we see the sign only 9 kilometers to Drumnadrochit which meant less than 6 miles to go. We have several groups of bikers that were using this path. It had some challenging rocks and turns on the path down the hill.

We had only a few fleeting views of the loch as we got closer to it, still far below us. After the last ‘more steep than ever’ down section we came out above the A82 and then joined the road for the mile or more walk into town. As we passed the Loch Ness visitors center Jo saw Karen across the road. It was about 1:30 in the afternoon and she had walked into town to do her shopping. It was Saturday and the market on the green was in full swing.

The three of us had lunch at the Loch Ness Deli where we had met them yesterday at the end of that day's walk.

Silvertoes notes: fishrmen — charming village of Drumnadrochit — Hotel Benleva

A good night’s sleep, after an excellent meal at the hotel; the chef must have arrived. After Jo and Harlan depart Sandy and I venture into town. She has found an excellent tea shop: actually it is the post office bus stop. And where is the post office? I have seen her lemon meringue tart-yum.

I also explore the area around Hotel Benleva. The ‘drifty lady’ has told me the hotel was, years ago, the manse (pastor’s house) of the old, old Church of Scotland nearby. I find the church, closed with scaffolding around the belfry. It is interesting to read some of the old epitaphs on the tombstones.

On the way back to the hotel I spy a faint path into the woods. It is about two blocks in length before emerging into a housing area. It is a magical two blocks. There is a canopy of trees overhead but the canopy is thin and light filters through. The path is twisty, narrow and soft with needles. The couple who had told me to ‘follow through’ on the road to the hotel had also mentioned a lovely ‘old path in the woods.’ This was probably the path. I can imagine an old minister walking the path from manse to church, ruminating on his coming sermon.

Quite a bit of activity around the corner of the hotel this morning. Our window is low and we can witness all kinds of ‘comings and goings’ as people pass by THE chestnut tree. Young and old pause and gaze into its leafy branches. Kids try to climb it!

Pick-ups and trucks start to line the drive. Men, and a few young lads, emerge from their vehicles, all dressed for an outing. Eventually it becomes clear that there is a preponderance of fishing poles and tackle boxes. Since the entrance to the bar and ‘gathering room’ is past our window and around the corner of the building, it is an early morning showtime. It is strange as the men don’t really seem to know each other.

Sandy and I enjoy the village. It is bustling on this fine Saturday. White tents are up in ‘the green’ and craft items are for sale: jewelry, fine soaps, delicious looking bread, leatherwork, local whisky. Alas, the tea shop is out of the lemon meringue tarts.

We have dinner again at the hotel but our charming waitress is nowhere to be seen. Sandy and Jo have been chatting with ‘drifty receptionist’ and mention the aged dog nearby. She says he was born in the bedroom that Harlan and I have. It is a crazy place. If only the walls could tell their stories! The first night we hardly had enough light to navigate our bedroom. I request some more bulbs be replaced, or perhaps even put in, in the overhead fixture. I am in the room when another young man comes to take care of the request. The ceiling height necessitates him getting a ladder. He is flustered as he has just unlocked the room door without even knocking and is surprised to find me reading a Scotland guide book. Well, he does not have any of the required light bulbs so he takes several out of the main fixture over the front door. So—we have additional light but people coming or going through the front door may not have adequate light!

Never have a room next to the front door of an old hotel—especially on a Saturday night! People are coming and going into the wee hours of the morning. They wait to say their drunken good-byes until they reach the creaking front door and some of the good-byes go on and on. Why can they not leave by the bar room door? At last I fell asleep, but lightly. I awake about 2:00 a.m. and sense someone is nearby - on the other side of the big old door. I hold my breath and the door handle turns. Slipping out of bed I inform Harlan we have a ‘would-be visitor.’ I visit the bathroom, return and promptly go to sleep. Not until next morning does he tell me that when I went to get a glass of water the handle quietly turned again. Now that is creepy?

The next morning the non-resident manager comes through the eating area and asks how our breakfast had been. Then we learn that all the activity yesterday had been the result of a fishing tournament. About 65 people from different fishing clubs had participated. He said they usually had up to 140 but many had canceled because of covid concerns. They had only caught fifteen fish and I thought better of asking him if that was a usual catch! Glad there were only 65 people as it had taken forever to have our dinner served last night. We said we would have patience, we were in no hurry—but we did not have the sweet, excellent little gal we had the first night for a server. In fact we had a varying array of servers and after one hour of patience we asked we have our dinner served in a more prompt fashion. That was about the time a server, carrying a tray, stumbled entering the kitchen and fell, taking a nosedive.



The manager turns out to be quite a conversationalist. He is a certified level two estate manager for game, mainly deer. He says most of the venison is exported to Europe. Oh my, too bad Harlan has to leave for day two of his stroll as this is a most interesting gentleman to talk with.

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Photos

Peeping Jo is ready to go!
Looking in our room window with the big tree behind her

First sign that our start was not right today
Our supposed 12 miles today is less than 10 Km from Abriachan Forest

sign as we enter the town
Drumnadrochit meaning the bridge of the ridge

Comments

[Dorothy M. Conner]

What a wonderful time in Scotland!
The places you're staying in and the places where you eat all sound super. So glad you're there and not in this everlasting heat here. Gets wearing after a bit. Enjoy cool Scotland!