Bermuda Day 1: Arrival and Historic St. George

North America » Bermuda » Saint George
September 8th 2010

Published: August 1st 2022

Edit Blog Post

AndrewHL

Pink Dawn over Bermuda

Pink Dawn over Bermuda. P1180044

Bermuda is said to be one of the most isolated places on earth. The nearest land is Cape Hatteras, North Carolina, 596 miles (nearly 1,000 km) away. Colleagues at work seemed to know very little about Bermuda when I told them I was traveling there. It is not part of the Caribbean, though it is often grouped with the Caribbean islands. Bermuda is a group of volcanic Atlantic Ocean islands (three main islands and dozens of smaller ones) warmed by the Gulf Stream. With a population of 66,000 it is the largest remaining British colony. As we were to discover, the history of Bermuda and Virginia are intertwined. Bermuda in fact was colonized when a group of ships bringing supplies to the Jamestown colony were blown there by a hurricane in 1609.

I was up on deck at 7:20 a.m. to watch our arrival at Bermuda. A pink colored dawn was already breaking over the islands. Appropriate, as Bermuda buildings are painted in shades of orange, rose, pink and yellow pastels. Two other cruise ships were also about: Veendam and Celebrity Summit. Norwegian Dawn made its way along the buoy marked channel towards the Dockyard at the Northwest tip of

Royal Naval Dockyard

Commissioner's House and Keep at the Royal Naval Dockyard, Bermuda. P1180056

the chain. (Treacherous reefs have caused many ships to come to grief off Bermuda.)

Norwegian Dawn docked on time at 8:00 a.m. at Heritage Wharf in the Dockyard area of Sandy's Parish. The captain reported the ship had traveled 704.6 nautical miles (1305 km) from New York at speed of 11.9 knots.

The former Royal Naval Dockyard has been developed as a cruise ship terminal. It's across the Great Sound from Hamilton, but there is frequent ferry service. For our first day in Bermuda, we planned to go to the town of St. George. We had breakfast in the Blue Lagoon on Deck 7. This was much less crowded on a port morning than the Garden Cafe buffet on Deck 12. The omelettes were very good, too.

After breakfast, the ship had been cleared and the gangway opened. We first bought a three day Bermuda bus and ferry pass at the welcome center on the dock. Then we went across the Dockyard to queue for the ferry to St. George. An interesting character appeared. He was on his cell phone helping several people sort out their plans. (It seems they had missed the Hamilton ferry for their

Heritage Wharf

Heritage Wharf at Ireland Island, Sandy's Parish, Bermuda. P1180068

organized activities.) When we boarded the ferry for St. George, there he was again, this time greeting visitors and handing out Bermuda maps. We'd soon find out more about him.

As the SeaExpress ferry made its way from the Dockyard along the north shore of Bermuda towards St. George, the gentleman who had come on board began pointing out sights along the way. Beaches. The Governor's mansion. Fort St. Catherine. He seemed to be in the know. He quizzed passengers to see what they knew about Bermuda and its history. He talked about Bermuda's founding in 1609 and its connection to Jamestown in Virginia. Bermuda's first capital was St. George in 1612, but the capital was relocated to Hamilton in 1815. A good thing, too, he said. Otherwise, St. George would be all built up now and there would not be the preserved colonial buildings. Who was this fellow? The Mayor of St. George? Well, yes, that's right! He was a former mayor! Obviously, he reveled in welcoming visitors to his town.

The ferry docked at St. George at about 10:45 a.m. On the dock was another surprise. The costumed Town Crier was their to welcome us to

M/V Bermudian

Ferry M/V Bermudian at the Royal Naval Dockyard. Operated by Sea Express from Hamilton to Bermuda points. MMSI: 310996115. P1180098

St. George, ringing his bell. He was as into his role as any Colonial Williamsburg reenactor. St. George and Colonial Williamsburg share much in common. Both were British colonial capitals at about the same time. St. George is full of 17th and 18th century structures, some museums, others still in everyday use. (They are not reconstructions as are so many of Williamsburg's structures.) The Town of St. George was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000 as the "earliest English urban settlement in the New World".

Well, with all that history, Susan and I had to set out to explore the town and find out all about it! King's Square, the center of town, was not far away from the ferry dock.The Town Hall is located on the square. We went in to look at the town council chambers. On the wall are photos of former mayors, and among them was our guide on the ferry! Outside, the Town Crier was announcing the witch trial that would take place at 12:15. This tourist reenactment makes use of the stocks and other punishment devices located on the square.

Susan and I continued down Water Street towards Somer's Wharf.

St. George Town Crier

St. George Town Crier welcomes visitors to St. George, Bermuda. P1180122

The street, like all in St. George, is lined with 18th and 19th century buildings. The balconied Post Office is here and I had some items to post. A little further along was the Tucker House Museum. The Tucker House was constructed in the mid-18th century. It was purchased by Henry Tucker in 1775. (Henry's brother, St.George, went to Virginia, building the St. George Tucker House in Williamsburg--another connection.)

The Tucker House is an excellently preserved Bermuda town house dating to the mid-18th century. It was built by Thomas Smith, a ship owner, trader, and tavern keeper. In 1775 it was purchased by Henry Tucker, the Colonial Treasurer. The Tuckers were one of the earliest Bermuda families. The family had many connections with the North American colonies and Henry's brothers St. George and Thomas settled there. (The St. George Tucker House stands in Williamsburg, VA, and Thomas Tucker became Treasurer of the United States.) The family were players in the Gunpowder Plot incident early in the American Revolution. Bermuda wanted to continue to trade with the 13 Colonies, though the Continental Congress had banned all trade with British possessions. St. George and his (and Henry's) father plotted to steal

St. George Town Hall

St. George Town Hall. Built between 1784 and 1810. 7 King's Square. P1180159p1

British gunpowder stored in Bermuda and use it to supply the Continental Army. The trade ban was lifted. The house today displays the main floor rooms. Mahogany and cedar furniture made in Bermuda and silver on display comes from Tucker family descendants and were used in the house. Original portraits of the Tuckers hang in the rooms. The house's high-ceiling design provides good cross-ventilation. There is an attached kitchen. An archaeological exhibit is on display in one of the cellars.

We missed the witch dunking reeanctment while touring the historic house, but seeing the house and learning its historical connections was well worthwhile.

After the Tucker House, we enjoyed lunch outdoors at Tavern by the Sea. From there, we made our way back to Duke to York Street and the Bermuda National Trust Museum. (Not to be confused with the larger National Museum of Bermuda at the Royal Naval Dockyard.) This museum is housed in the former Globe Hotel. Displays tell of Bermuda's seagoing heritage, but most especially of Bermuda's involvement as a port for Confederate blockade runners during the Civil War. Across the street is St. Peter's Church.

Old St. Peter's Church. St. Peter's Church in

Tucker House

Tucker House Museum. The Tucker House was constructed in the mid-18th century. It was purchased by Henry Tucker in 1775. (Henry's brother, St. George, went to Virginia, building the St. George Tucker House in Williamsburg.) 5 Water Street. Historic Town of St George and Related Fortifications, Bermuda, UNESCO World Heritage site. P1180137

the Town of St. George is said to be the oldest continuously operating Protestant church in the New World. The church was founded in 1612 by the first permanent Bermuda colonists. The oldest section of the present church building dates to 1619. Additions to the structure were made over time until 1841. The simple but impressive interior is built of Bermuda Cedar. The ceiling beams resemble the construction of a ship's hull, perhaps not surprising in maritime-oriented St. George. The Altar Table, still in use, was made in 1612. The Pulpit was made in 1660. Box-style pews are similar to those found in Colonial-era churches in Virginia. Outside, St. Peter's Churchyard is the oldest cemetery in Bermuda. Gravestones record both prominent and ordinary people. Of interest is the segregated section originally set aside for slaves and free Black persons.

Up Queen Street we found Stewart Hall, the oldest house in Bermuda. But, it is not a museum, it's home to the Bermuda Perfumery. Still, it has been well preserved and the Bermuda cedar ceiling rafters can be seen. Susan and I explored more of the back streets of St. George on our way to see the Unfinished Church. This

Town House

Town house dated 1862. The pastels are typical of Bermuda houses. 34 York Street, St. George, Bermuda. P1180131

church, a large Gothic structure, was planned as a replacement for St. Peter's. But there was division among the parishioners and the church was never completed. In fact, it is located on "Failed Church Lane"! It was time to think about retuning to downtown and we had a nice walk along palm-lined Duke of Kent Street.

There were still things to see in the center of town. The Old State House was built in 1629. Italianate in style, it hardly looks its age. The Bermuda House of Assembly (Parliament) met here until 1815. It is now a Masonic lodge. Across from King's Square is Ordinance Island. Cruise ships docked here until recently. Most are now too large to negotiate St. George's Channel leading to the harbour and instead tie up at the Dockyard on the opposite side of Bermuda. Lack of direct cruise traffic has had a negative effect on the town's economy. Visitors have to be attracted over from the Dockyard via ferry. (That's probably one reason why the former mayor is busy making visitors feel welcome in St. George.) Ordinance Island commemorates the founding of Bermuda as a colony. A statue of Sir George Somers (1554-1610) is

Smith House

Smith House. Built in the mid-18th century. The house has been a residence, a trade goods and salvage shop, a salt cellar, a blacksmith shop and a clothing store. Water Street. Historic Town of St George and Related Fortifications, Bermuda, UNESCO World Heritage site. P1180156p1

in Bob Burns Park. In 1609, Somers was leading a fleet bringing supplies to the Jamestown Colony in Virginia. His ship, the Sea Venture, was caught in a hurricane and wrecked in Bermuda. Somers and his crew constructed a new ship, Deliverance, during a 10-month stay in Bermuda. A replica of Deliverance is on display. Somers is regarded as the founder of Bermuda.

After a thoroughly enjoyable and informative visit to St. George, we caught the 4:00 p.m. ferry back to the Dockyard. As we left, St. David's Lighthouse could be seen jutting up from St. David's Island.

The ferry from St. George returned us to the Royal Naval Dockyard cruise terminal at 4:45 p.m. Susan and I had planned to go to the Harbour Nights festival that evening in Hamilton. Harbour Nights is a music and arts and crafts festival held on Wednesday evenings. It was to start at 7:00 p.m., so getting there would mean catching another ferry, no later than 6:15. We were feeling pretty beat after our daylong visit to St. George. It had been fascinating, but it had been hot there. We'd need to clean up and have dinner, so did not think

P1180135

Harbour Nights was going to be doable after all. I'd really wanted to see the Gombey dancers, too. Gombey is Bermuda's Carnival tradition, and this would have been a chance to see their costumes. In the event, we were treated to a beautiful sunset over the Dockyard and then had a casual dinner at the Garden Cafe. Entertainment was the a production show in the Stardust Theater: South Beach Rave.

Additional photos below

Photos: 42, Displayed: 29