Advertisement
Published: October 23rd 2009
Today is the first ride across the altiplano. These high altitude plains are common throughout the Andes. We ride up to 4500m, but unlike previously we stay there or at least above 3800m for most of the day. The effect is noticeable for me but less so for Karen. I feel hung over and tired and have to work hard to concentrate. We stop to don waterproofs which is always a palaver but at this altitude just about finishes both of us off. We are panting by the time we have got them on. One rider, Tony, is so affected he can no longer ride and spends the rest of the day in the van. Another feature of the altiplano is the flocks(?) of Llama, Alpaca and Vecunia. They are very cute but clearly quite skittish As you pass their ears drop back on their heads as they prepare to panic! Arriving at Abancay many roads are closed as they are being painted or decorated with flowers. There are also processions carrying small altars through the streets. We didn't manage to find out what or who was being celebrated but it was being done with proper conviction and style.
We
Farming Peru Style
Seen it done by hand, by oxen, by cattle and even sometimes by tractor eat at a local Pizza place remarkable for its oven. It is a dome shape with a single large opening with a flap. Inside to the right are the burning logs and timbers. To the left is a much swept space where the pizza's are slid in on traditional shovels. It results in very nice herby crisp, slightly smoky pizza.
The ride from Abancay to Cusco is another stunning mountain ride, marred only for the first 10 miles by strange tarmac that gave no grip whatsoever. The road winds through green valleys far above the river and over peaks using as many curves as you can possibly fit in. We ride alone all day and savour the solitude. At Anta there is an optional 80 mile loop to Ollantaytambo to see some Inca ruins and terraces. This also allows us to ride into Cusco via the Sacred Valley, named by the Inca's of course. However we get a bit lost (Karen wishes to point out I got lost, not we) as we turn left in Anta not after Anta. Add to this the road is closed. A local boy on a push-bike tells us we can go round in
Spanish with lots of hand signals. So we do. However after 5 miles we are clearly on another road. Asking a local he tells us this is “a” road to Urabamber although there are two. Reassured that this road goes where we want on we go asking again in Huarocondo, and being told to leave the plaza by the road on the top right. As we leave Huarocondo the tarmac finishes and it is gravel and rock. So I check the sat nav (It won't give guidance but does show where you are relative to a basic map) and the road is on it and it does go to Urabamber, sort of. On we go only later realizing the scale means that we do 20/25 miles on this single lane gravel track. It follows the river and railway line that we later find out is the line we take on the train to Machu Picchu. Arriving at Ollantaytambo no other bikes are there. A few turn up 15 minutes later. Our getting lost has cut the corner by 30 miles and despite our low speed off road had put us ahead of the pack.
Cusco is back on the
Famous Five
Actually six but Karen is taking the photo. outside the Cathedral, Cusco Plaza, shortly before being asked to move as is no parking.... Gringo Trail as it is the departure point to get to Machu Picchu. Our hotel and home for three nights is just off the main plaza. A host of bars and restaurants are available including the Norton Rats, run by an American Norton enthusiast. It is an obligatory stopping point for all Motorcycle over landers to drink Hook Norton and Abbot on draft and sign the visitor book. Cusco is also where our tour leaders Kevin and Julia were married 6 years ago at El Monastario. They recommend the restaurant, which is excellent while pricey. As a treat Max, Christine, Karen and I have booked a table telling no-one else and are truly pampered. Great food, super service, nice linen and “Which of these 5 gins would sir like his gin and tonic made of ?” Lovely bit of luxury.
Up at silly o'clock to get the bus at 6.15, to get the Peru Rail train ("10 years at your service") for a 4 hour ride to Agua Callientes the town below Machu Picchu, to get a bus which climbs up Machu Picchu mountain to arrive at ….. Machu Picchu. The pictures don't do it justice as the scale
Puno, Peru
The government give credits for business owners, to encourage them, but only to women as men can´t be trusted, so they come and queue up at Banco National to collect them... and the height are lost. I was also surprised to find it is only 500 years old. Pleasantly it is also less tourist infested than expected as they recently halved the daily numbers admitted and doubled the price. Late on in the tour the weather closes in and it rains heavily for 25 minutes, just before we reverse the bus, train, bus journey to get back to the hotel in Cusco for 9.15! Time for a quick bite and bed as we are all shattered. Unsurprisingly the next day (two days off in a row!) we meander around the delightful Cusco, and do little in advance of a group meal on the plaza.
The next day is 240 miles across the altiplano, which is stunning in a desolate and barren way. We stop at Silustani, where there are ruins of inca, pre inca, and pre those dudes funeral chimneys set on a hill overlooking a beautiful still turquoise lake. However walking up the hill at 3800m altitude is a real effort, so we reward ourselves with an ice cream.
Puno, still on the Gringo trail, is our destination and another (!) day off so we can visit the
Uros Ladies
Ladies of Uros floating islands on lake Titicaca floating reed islands of lake Titicaca (Stop laughing in the back row). At 3825m it is the highest navigable lake in the world. In the 1500's the inca people took to living in boats on the lake to escape the Conquistadors. They then learned to weave the reeds and the roots bases to form floating islands. These sit in water upto 25m deep and are soft and squishy to walk on. The Uros people have lived their ever since, and despite the move to tourism as their key income in recent years, still live simple lives on the reed islands. They are complete with schools and doctors. They last about 20 years before they rot too far. Great thing is if you fall out with the other families on you island you can literally cut them off and float away on your own. The ultimate detached property.
So we have spent a few days more as tourists than tear away bikers in Peru, but all of it unmissable. But over the next few days back to the hard core biking with Colca Canyon and more dirt roads to be negotiated.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.182s; Tpl: 0.019s; cc: 9; qc: 46; dbt: 0.0515s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
Gary and Valerie
non-member comment
Hi, really love reading your diary with all the gorgeous pictures. Make us all travelling! Can't believe it's already november! it is going so quickly .... Dad still hasn't understood what a blog is but he really enjoys the emaiil that we print for him. by the way he is at Alan and Grace for 2 weeks (here is alan number if you need it: 01673 818707). We are all fine here. Margaux loves school and I still don't like work! take care and enjoy the last weeks. lots of love xxx Gary, Valerie and Margaux ps: not surprised that Rich is feeling the altitude sickness ... he is always 1 meter higher than everyone else and that is without mentioning you sis!