Peru,

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We leave for Peru early as the border is only 3 miles away. Its a quiet border only recently opened to vehicular traffic. Its the usual routine and takes a couple of hours. The only worry is that two of the guys went through early and their bikes are not recorded in the police log! We shall see if this is a problem when we come to exit Peru.

The first 60 miles of Peru are mountainous and similar to Ecuador but then we cross into the northern Peruvian desert. This is depressing as the shanty towns are made pampas and thatched split bamboo, and the country is clearly much poorer. The rubbish that litters the side of the road is incredible, depressing and voluminous. This stretches the whole of northern Peru, except when we get into the mountains and gravel tracks. The feeling of poverty is clear and the people are fascinated by big motorbikes. In Chiclayo there is a bit of wealth, nice shops, hotels and restaurants based around the Realtos Tumbas Sipan. These are the unmolested tombs of the Lord of Sipan, which pre dates the Incas. It was discovered in the 60s and preserved along with the obligatory museum, gift shop etc. The Tuc Tucs and three wheeled two seat taxis which are basically Honda CG 125s with the back end cut off and a trike rear end bolted on are a feature of Peru. There are hundreds of these swarming in and out of the traffic without observation on indication.

After another days ride through largely desert terrain, we stay on the coast in Huanchaco which is a bit of a surf dude paradise. As a result interesting hostels and restaurants. In the late afternoon we visit Chan Chan the largest clay city still to survive, which covered 25 km2. The access is currently only to one of the nine royal palaces as there is no money to uncover the rest. Again this pre dates the Incas. There have basically been four dynasties running south America and every-one blames the Spanish for wiping out the Incas. True but the Incas wiped out the people who built Chan Chan and they the dynasty before them. We enjoy a fantastic meal in a Dutch run vegetarian restaurant on the sea front with Max and Christine. Well we are in Peru. After a 100 miles down the Pan American Highway we turn off at Santa, yes really, towards Canyon Del Pato. This is a hard rock and gravel 60 miles of single track to Caraz. It was originally built for a railway line but this was never installed. There are 38 single track unlit tunnels, bearing in mind the road is two way and there are trucks and buses going to and fro.

This is a black day as for the first time on the trip I dropped Heffy (the bike). Al fell off and so we stopped to pick him up. Nigel and Andy arrived and Nigels headlight was falling off following a previous crash so we cable tied this back on for him. Andy and Nigel then cannot get their bikes off the side stands due to the hill so I help them get them off. And then I move my bike (just me on it) to let them go, slip on the sand and bang she falls to the left and I am lying underneath her. She has a dented pannier and I am a bit bruised, but the bruised pride of no longer being in the club of only 3 (now 2 including Kevin the group leader) not to fall is worse. By the time we lift Heffy up Phil comes round the same corner and comes off as well, so we then have to pick him up. In the next hundred yards of sand and gravel Phil comes off again and Ed comes off. Add to this Mac, Jim and Phils bike (Jim hit it when it was parked), plus Pauls pannier fell off and then he dropped his bike when refitting it. So not the best day all in all despite the stunning scenery and scary tunnels. Getting through the tunnels involves main beam and lots of horn and bravery.

When we arrive at Caraz we are welcomed by the lovely sisters at our hostel with beers and hot cheese sandwiches that are reminiscent of Haloumi. The ride the following day is through beautiful mountains and villages. We pass a primary school kids “protest” where all the banners read “Wash Your Hands” in Spanish of course. We also pass beautiful snow capped mountains, because this is the Cordillera Blanca, The climb into the mountains takes us above he tree line and up to 4100m, where we stop for coffee and corn. This involves sitting in a shack where the Peruvian hostess pops next door for hot water, and then give us a jar of powdered Nescafe and a pot of sugar. “Leche?” She offers a tin of Gloria (Carnation) condensed milk. The corn is very pale large corn on the cob being sold by a lady walking past. All in all a good stop and almost £2 spent between the two of us. From here we spend 60 miles descending from 4100m to sea level, via hairpins, bends, more hairpins and more bends. One of the great roads anywhere, only needing resurfacing at the top to be perfect. We descend from rocky mountains back through the tree line into sparse greenery and trees and then down through small villages and hamlets with cultivated fields. These run back up the sides of hills on steep inclines farming by hand every available inch of land. We pass herds of goats and working donkeys on the never ending descent. And then we are at sea level with huge waves crashing. A short coast road ride into Barranca and we are done for the day. Barranca is definitely off the tourist or Gringo trail and it shows. This is small town poor Peru up close. There is a huge problem with counterfeit money in Peru and money changers loiter by the ATM offering better rates than the banks. If only the notes they had could be trusted. Peru is also awash with Chifas or Chinese restaurants. Why the Chinese would choose here to come and open we have no idea but for the second time in four days a Chinese it is.

From Baranca we have a 450 mile day largely on the Pan American Highway to get to Nazca. We traverse the desert along the coast for most of the day. The highlight excitement wise is crossing Lima, the Peruvian capital. Despite the many signs saying Lima is Pretty, it isn and the morning traffic is chaos. Add smog, dust, pedestrians on the 3/4/5 lane road and a total disregard for any rules and it makes for a fun half hour. Be positive or even aggressive and you will survive. In Lima traffic the meek will inherit nothing except a taxi in the side.

There is a noticeable difference leaving Lima to the south. The litter is less, the cars are nicer, there are villages on the coast targeting tourists. It is as if Lima is a dividing line between the squalor and abject poverty of the north and the hard life subsistence farming poverty in the south. It feels like Peru has given up on the North?

Nazca is home to the Nazca lines. Huge crop circle style lines in the desert that can be seen at their best form a small plane. So on a rare day off we go and fly and get tilted every which way to view the lines. The shapes include geometric patterns, dogs, herons, and one called astronaut. They were created by the Nazca people 200BC to 400AD, or if you believe Jim by visiting spacemen, although quite why with space travel technology they would choose to do this is beyond me.

Tomorrow we leave for Abancay and then on to Cusco.

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Photos

Us in Canyon Del Pato
Travelling through Canyon Del Pato

Kids Protest
Never under estimate the importance of washing your hands

Cordillera Blanca
Lovely Mountains, mean twisty roads

Lima Traffic
At least the kids are friendly

Going Down
Thats all the same road winding back and forth...

Comments

[joe]

hostel in caraz
hello..i am going to caraz on oct 23..what is the name of the hostel where u stayed and what did u pay..thanks..

[RandK]

Hostal Almenda
At the top oif the hill out of the plaza, run by lovely sisters and very reasonable price