Blogs from Choco, Colombia, South America


South America » Colombia » Choco August 4th 2018

Sure, you may be worried about travelling to this region with the FARC, palamilitary groups, narcotic makers and government troops (all enemies of each other) and the region's recent history, but it's actually now very safe. If you stay along the coast and don't ask questions then you'll be completely fine..and when the decision to come and visit this area is made, it will be worth it. It is our favourite place so far in Colombia and we really wanted to stay longer than 5 days! We got here by a night bus from Medellin, 10 hrs, and arrived to Turbo at 7 am and then took a 2.5 hr boat to Capurgana. You need a bit of patience for this trip, especially if you didn't sleep well on the bus. August to October brings calm ... read more
Anna and Paco Off To Aguacate
Bush Walking to Sapzurro

South America » Colombia » Choco March 16th 2018

When I arrived in Nuqui (a town in the Choco region of west Colombia) on Wednesday morning, I realised two things: Google maps had no clue where anything was; and I did not bring enough cash to survive for 6 days. These were not trivial things, but at least for first one I could follow the crowd (and basic instructions I had received from the place I was staying). For the second, I had to do some quick thinking, because I knew I would be without internet once I had taken the small boat to my accommodation. I took out cash in Medellin – a large quantity, I had thought, but then everything seems large when you’re thinking in Pesos. But once I got to Nuqui and realised a) exactly how much I would need (food ... read more
Beach outside accommodation
Medellin from the air
Beach outside accommodation

South America » Colombia » Choco March 1st 2017

No cars. Only electricity in the evening. A small fishing village turned into low profile holiday village. Island feeling because there is no road access, only ultra small planes depart from the small strip in the middle of the village, and of course if the weather allows a lot of small boat activities.From Baranquilla to Capurgana took us two days by bus, van and speedboat. In Capurgana we just wanted to spend a few days on the beach and get our exit stamp to make our move to Panama. But a storm somewhere far away above the ocean pushed huge waves our way and made all water transport impossible. For us that was absolutely no problem ... read more

South America » Colombia » Choco January 13th 2014

On my way south I stopped for a couple of days in the idyllic backwater of Mompos - a Unesco World Heritage site full of beautiful colonial merchant houses and churches along the Rio Grande de la Magdalena. Life moves along at a snail pace with locals relaxing in the early evening in doorways and squares with their kids and neighbours - invariably in a locally made wicker rocking chair. Being a little off the beaten track, it was a peaceful haven allowing me to chill out well away from the party animals on the hostel circuit. From Mompos, it was an adventurous journey to Turbo starting at 5am by 5 means of transport over a 10 hour period (colectivo to Bodega; chalupa to Magangue; colectivo to Sincelejo; colectivo to Monteria; minibus to Turbo). Turbo is ... read more
colonial splendour
merchant houses
Mompos peak hour traffic

South America » Colombia » Choco » Nuquí July 20th 2013

It has been many months since we left the shores of the most beautiful Carib-Colombian village Capurgana, our bottoms bouncing from our hard plastic seats as the speedboat surged out across the Gulf of Uraba back to Turbo. With every thwack of the hull on water, shock jarred up our spines. We’d taken this journey two weeks previously but that time the boat captain had put enough diesel in the tanks…this time, after nearly two hours of bouncing, we were marooned just 10 minutes from the coastline as we waited for another boat to deliver us our fuel. Fortunately reinforcements came just as the disgruntled murmurings of the tightly packed passengers rose to fever pitch. We were then thrust back suddenly into the chaos of mainland Colombian city life, but none of this could deprive our ... read more

South America » Colombia » Choco January 21st 2013

Everybody looks for information to establish some kind of expectations. It is true with regards to finances, schools, jobs and life in general as well as travels. We read stories, buy guidebooks and gather information to know what to expect when we get to a place. However, only some of those expectations can be realistic. Some are too high and then we are disappointed and then some are too low and we can be positively surprised. And there are those situations that no matter what you expect they scare the shit out of you. This is exactly what happened on the way to Capurgana. Capurgana is one of those places which is not very straightforward to get to unless you have loads of money to fly there. If you follow our blog you know that we ... read more
searching for gold

South America » Colombia » Choco » Nuquí July 18th 2011

I spent the last six days in the Pacific coastal region known as El Choco. The coastline there is wild rainforest, distinct from the Amazon. It´s one of the wettest places on earth, averaging about 40 feet of rain per year. My experience in El Choco, despite being shorter than I would have liked, was amazing. I flew into the town of Nuqui on a 15 passenger plane. There are no roads into El Choco. Virtually all of the people are Afro-Colombians, descendants of slaves from the colonial period. I had read that there was a bank in Nuqui but it turns out there is not. I would have to make the cash that I brought last and/or take a 2.5 hour boat north to a larger town with the only bank in the region. I ... read more
Choco.K.H 032
Choco.K.H 021
Choco.K.H 019

South America » Colombia » Choco » Nuquí August 26th 2010

A este monte de 150 metros sobre el nivel del mar, se llega después de dos horas de exigente caminata, por el medio de la selva, en una zona pantanosa y muy húmeda. Hay momentos en que toca ascender bastante, así que dos horas yendo y dos horas regresando puede resultar bastante exigente, pero vale la pena. En todo caso, si no estás muy bien de estado físico, será mejor no ir. TIP DE VIAJE: Si se te olvida llevar las botas “machitas” en el Hotel El Cantil te las prestan. Sin el uso de estas botas no pienses en hacer esta caminata. La pasarías fatal.... read more
Un duro ascenso
Debes usar botas machitas

South America » Colombia » Choco March 16th 2010

A couple of weeks ago, I left Medellin with the intention of stopping in Sante Fe de Antioquia for the night. This was a Friday. I decided on the bus ride to SFdA that I would, instead, spend a few hours in this colonial town continuing on to Turbo on a night bus. I felt short on time and still had 8 hours to driving after Sante Fe before arriving in Turbo, from where I was to catch a boat to Capurganá. Turns out, this was a good decision. There wasn’t much to see in Sante Fe. It is interesting in that was once the capital of Antioquia but as far as colonial towns go, it wasn’t as pretty as Popayan, for example. I chatted with a 17-year-old girl for a while. She looked 15, ... read more
Finally, some sun!
Waiting out the storm in Turbo

South America » Colombia » Choco July 4th 2009

El Pais De Amor = The Country of Love I've been a bit lazy so I've got quite a bit of catching up to do.After Medallin I got bus to Monteria ,then to Coveñas.After a day on the beach ,Carrabian, I went to Cartagena.After booking into my hotel n orgonising to get my washing done the hotel asked if I'd like to do a tour of city that afternoon.I said I'd let them know.I went to my room n 5mins later was bored so went downstairs n booked tour. At 2pm the bus picked me up and at the next hotel the most gorgeous Colombian lady got on n she sat in the seat in front of me.As she sat down we gave each other a happy smile.At the 1st stop I realised we were the ... read more

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